The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Modding engine stand.

With all the suspension work of late I'm starting to feel the need for speed. There's a (supposedly) good 261 taking up space in the shop. My little engine stand pictured below has had many small blocks bolted up. It's up to the task when care is taken. One time long ago I had a 1966 Ford 390 on it, that was too much. No wrecks but it could have happened a time or two.

So the above said, I'm thinking extend the almost 3' horizontal a foot, pull the swivel caster off the front and add a 4' T section with two swivel casters. I've got a couple of trailer slack adjusters that can be used as a gear drive to rotate the engine. That could (needs to) happen.

So, as someone is prone to saying, am I trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear?

The number I've got in mind for a complete 261 is mid to high 600's. About 100 lbs more than the 390 mentioned above.

RonR

I think you can get a 4-wheel 1000 lb rated engine stand for about $50. But it wouldn't have the rotator. You might have that much in modifying the base of yours if you had to buy the materials, But it wouldn't be that much effort.
I've modified two engine stands into a cab and frame rotisserie, so I don't think you're crazy for modifying that 3 legged stand to be safer.

While you're at it, go to Harbor Fright and get some of the big, wide caster wheels with the hard plastic construction and ball bearings. They will make it much easier, and safer to move the stand around. The stand that I modified for stovebolt engines has casters with wheels about 4" in diameter and 2" wide. The older steel wheels would lock up trying to roll over a cotter pin, or the stub of a welding rod. Bolt a piece of 1/2" X 2" flat bar across the top bell housing bolt holes and position the legs of the spider 4" outboard of the block and use a stack of washers to compensate for the out of alignment at the bottom.
Jerry

My oldest stand was a three wheeler until a friend borrowed it, he made a four wheeler out of it, very similar to that one. I built a 6.5 GM diesel on it but I did add a couple of light duty supports from the front of the engine down to the front cross piece. That engine was in the 700 lb. range

Kevin as luck would have it, there are a few pieces of square tubing in the spare parts inventory. And Jerry, I think I've got some 6" swivel wheels similar to what you described.

I say my excess inventory rack is full of precious metal. Mrs. Kathy calls it a junk rack. No explaining some folks!

RonR

"precious metal" LOL. I have some of that as well. Sounds like Mrs. Kathy needs to be educated about it, like my wife.

After fiddling with these old 3 legged stands for years I finally bit the bullet and bought a decent 4 leg. What did it for me was having a big block fall over and pin me to the floor, I had used the stand for several other engines, even a few BB F@#ds and Mopars and never had an issue.

I bought a folding 4 leg stand from Jeg's when I started me 327 build, not the high dollar one but a good solid unit just the same, no regrets. I have several small stands, seems like I get donated one every time someone cleans out their shop

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80042/10002/-1?_br_psugg_q=engine+stand

Four is always better than three. And, when we put the hemi with blower on a stand, a 2X4 usually goes under the hub. Talk about weight.

The single upright is fine for the weight, and a 2x4 won’t help with tipping sideways. The critical thing is width at both front and back. I’ve had a complete 7.3L diesel on the typical 4wheel stand, and had no problem at all. I did hold my breath putting weight on it. That thing weighs in at 900 lb. Craig’s folding stand has a nice wide stance.
If the front wheels are as wide as the rears, you’ll be golden.

2X4' helps, not with tipping, but with iron block/iron heads, blower, hat, etc. It spreads the load a little.