The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Archived Journals 1955.1 Chevy 3600 - 5 window frame off

I will begin to show how everything went. The first thing I did was build a she shed on to the side of my old shed. I pulled the cab off and then I removed the motor.

That's pretty awesome! Keeps us in the loop.

The engine was taken to my favorite machine shop. Cleaned and bored 30 over.

Next thing we did was under size the crank by 10 thousand. It then was balanced. Conditioned the rods.

I installed the mains. I measured each main and shimmed accordingly. Note: Get your own paper and build your own shims.

87GN , I have a question or two regarding the engine rebuild at the machine shop. Is/was it an option to have the block line bored for the mains and grinding the crank to eliminate the shims on the main caps? Similar question on grinding the rod journals on the crank , boring the rods to eliminate the shims? Thanks for sharing your progress.

Ron

Now is a good time to bore the block for a modern rear main seal.

Ed

Dusty53, good question, to line bore the mains on this engine would be alot less work if you compare it to the time spent adjusting the shims to achieve a match between the crank and the mains. If you line bore the mains a center line would have to be agreed on and then each bearing would have to be adjusted to accommodate the new diameter. Remember always shoot for the moon if you miss you land in the stars. There is a passion that drives me to achieve the things that are greater me. Hopfully these montras will help support my reasons for the seamingly endless attention to details. To the rod question, 10 thousand under rod bearings were purchased. We then installed them into the rods. Having previosly marked the side of the rods days before we measured each rod diameter with the bearings in. If they were within spec great if not the rod bearing was then conditioned. All the rods were conditioned.

Hello EdPruss, I installed #6100 from best gasket. Installed accordingly your sealing power is greater then what came in my engine gasket kit.

87GN,

I got Best gasket sets for my spare 302s.

Ed

Thanks for the feedback. If I end up doing any rebuilding I doubt that I will do anything other than follow the Shop manual. I wanted to understand more about the options and you answered my questions. You know, its hard for me to get past the fact that these old engines just "keep going" and that although the methods for repair have been changed greatly by advances in machining and technology, the old methods produced some pretty solid results. I'll be following your progress and thanks again.

Ron

While the block and the head were being milled I started to rebuild the distributor.

After milling was complete we washed both the block and head. Note finding a head that was'nt cracked was expensive. We got the new cam and bearings in and installed the crank along with the timing cover. I was able to purchase a NOS locking clip for those two special bolts, you know the ones that bolt inside out and hold the bottom of the timing cover.

Why didn't you mod the timing cover bolt arrangement to work from the outside? Or is that a GMC only thing?

I didn’t consider that option. How would that work?

I know where to get the instructions on OldGMCtrucks forum, but you have to join to access the info. Instructions are likely available elsewhere, probably even here on Stovebolt if I knew where to look. Maybe someone who knows his way around the site can point us at it?? User name SlimSix posted the instructions on the GMC site. I know him from the GMC site and have just PM'd him asking for the instructions.

I re-read the instructions and the thread implies that same info works for Chevy 6s of the period. Should work because these front of the engine parts interchange between Chevy and GMC.

I could copy the instructions and e-mail them if we can't find them here.

Stovebolt Tech Tips. Go to the Tech Tip Engine section and scroll down to almost the bottom of Engine Tech Tips. You will find the instructions there. Good luck.

Sweet's instructions are good, but the instructions that SlimSix posted are done with the engine removed and are more appropriate for 87GN's project.

Tech tips are great, The engine is near completion just a few more bolt on's. The timing cover mod is pretty slick. Thanks you guys.

Once the crank and cam were in it was time for the head to go on. Earlier I mentioned It was hard to find a good head. The original head was cracked in the combustion chamber. Check out the pictures.
/'


\

I purchased a head from someone I did not know. Had it shipped to my house in Maryland. It was cracked.

My wife and I are retired and injoy road trips. We hadn’t been to New England yet so we loaded up the truck an headed north. Between the road trip north and my bout with the purchased head dubacal, I was still looking for a uncracked head. My internet search lead me to Chevy Supply of Assonet Massachussets. I called to ask if he had a good head he said yes I do. Well, you know what that means, Donna and I have added a stop to are New England ride. Long story short we meet the owner and he and some of his stovebolter's were picnicing by his large shop. He and I became good friends right away. He and some of his friends showed me around his coral of rare american classic's. He did show me 3 heads that were on a shelf with many other parts and he politly said to pick one. Whow, I was floating on air almost geety. I picked my head and he and I pulled it from the shelf. Mean while I saw a oil pan in much better shape than mine. Yes was all he said. Donna and I left with a smile on our faces. I knew why I was happy but I don't think Donna knew why she was smiling. Attached you will see a picture were I am shaving the outside diameter of the valve guide to accomodate the new seals.

Finished the valve seals got the new oil filter system installed and brought her home.

Onto some more restoration. The steering box.

And along came the rear

Can't forget the trans. SM420

You will see 2 pictures one will be cleaned starter and generator. The second pictures shows the same parts except for one thing, I am learning to apply black oxide.

I have been working on the truck. My next couple of posts will be before and after pictures of the cab floor and all four corners. First 3 will be the cab floor.

That's some really nice metal smithing!

A floor pan from scratch - wow!

Driver and passengers front corner

Thanks GDads51

First chance I had to look at your PJ in details. I really like the way you started the whole journey! A "she shed" ... that's very funny!

Looks like you are making great progress.

87GN (Grand National?), you need to stop this right now. Your craftsmanship and progress are going to give us mere mortals a complex!

Great Work!

RonR

Heater before and after

Was it working before disassembly but just rusty?

87GN,

That's a lot of detailed clean-up work.

Any helpful tips/hints on what you used to make the work less intimidating???

What Dan said. Chemical or mechanical rust stripping?

BTW, I changed your title a bit to add more information, making it easier for folks to find in a search.

A blasting cabinet on everything except the motor. I used a wire wheel on a die grinder for the fan motor. I did take the motor apart to look for damage. None to be found. To clean and inspect the inside of the housing I had to remove the two rivets holding the brush mount plate. To reinstall the plate I used four sheet metal screws and applied a little epoxy on them.

Also to Ottos question yes the motor is still working.

Beautiful work, and you are a talented mechanic sir! I’m very envious.

If it’s hard to do then it’s the right thing to do.

Looks like you are making great progress!

The cab is ready for epoxy primer. 4 rusty lower cab corners replaced, floor replaced, kick panels too. Removed and repaired rusted belt line. In order to repair the hidden belt line the back window inner panel had to be removed. It too needed repair and replaced the bottom lip of that inner panel. Did the hammer and dolly work on the back wall most of which was above and below the back window and some dents on the roof above the front window. Did some metal shrinking, I used the 9" shrinking disk and to my surprise I found a way to shrink metal Well worth the $70.00 dollars. My next step is a bath. Remove the cab from the rotisserie and move the rotisserie outdoors, remount the cab and wash the cab. Which brings me to my next step. Washing. I have searched this next step, washing bare metal, and I am no closer to moving forward to the bath then I was 2 days ago when I began this search. No search revealed bathing the entire cab, just panels one a time with a wax and grease remover. It is a large task to take on and I could use some help to understanding the dos and don'ts. Specifically what cleaning product is fundamental and cost effective. In other words, can I use soap and the garden hose? I would use the leaf blower and compressed air plus towels to remove all the water every where.

The drivers door had multiple issues. Gaps were small and large. There was a big difference in the bottom latch side of the door. To solve the gap problems wasn’t that hard. I removed the edge of the door to in large the gap and added weld to the doors edge to widen the door. Now to the issue with the bottom of the door. The door apparently was twisted or was it. The picture shows the 1/4” gap at the bottom of the door. My first attempt was to force the door with ratchet straps and blocks in strategic positions to tweak the door into alignment to the latch post. The door did not cooperate. So I cut the hinge post. See the picture to see were I cut the post. After I removed enough material I welded the post.

It rained last night. Knocked down the pollen. It's time to prime. Temperature in the shed is 58 degrees and the humidity is at 70% in the shed. Went and got the small propane heater so I could lower the humidity. It also raised the temperature so I waited till after lunch I figured the temperature would come down a bit being it was 60 outside. So I waited until the inside of the shed was at 68 degrees and the humidity was at 50 %. We don't get to many chances in late spring here in Maryland. The heat and humidity come on fast. So I made today the day Ito epoxy the cab. Its kind of strange really, I have spent a lot of time with the cab. I know priming is just the beginning and there a lot of hard work in front of me but I cant help but feel lonely. I am happy to show some pictures. Take look.

Priming the cab is a hugh milestone. Next thing you know it will be driving down the road!

10/4 on that WICruiser I began stripping the doors today.

I did get the cab to primer and I began to block sand. After a while, months later, I primed for the last time. Here are some pictures of the primed cab and some pictures of the Lizzard Skin I put under the floor and the back wall.

Love the super attention to detail and finish work.

Your paint job is going to be awesome!

I’m assembling all things before I disassemble all things. Just to make sure all things fit. Since my last post I have been working on the cab, got it to primer. The interior has been fitted with carpet and seat. I was able to find a 410 ring and pinion got that swapped out. Engine has been ready. Here are some pictures.

Did you paint your carburetor?