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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 34 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 34 | Pulled the clutch and found it to have oil on it. Appears to becoming from the rear main. 216 engine can the main be pulled with out taking the oil pan off? Engine is out of truck.
Last edited by Not to old yet; 12/29/2021 1:37 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 24 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 24 | No ! You need to pull the pan | | | | | Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 34 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 34 | Thank you. I should do what I don't want to do as that is what usually happens. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,796 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,796 | The permanent fix is to machine the back of the block and the rear main bearing cap for a full circle lip seal like the late model Chevy V8's run, but that requires a complete teardown of the engine to a bare block, and a machinist willing to do the job. The seal is 3 7/8" inside diameter, 4 3/4" outside diameter, and 3/8" thick. I have a home-brewed fixture for my cylinder boring tool to do that job- - - -otherwise it takes a Bridgeport milling machine with a right-angle cutter adapter and about half a day of setup work.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 | Hey Jerry. With a 216 which uses shims to set up the main bearings, would you have to set up the crank shaft oil clearance with the shims before you machined the back of the block and the main cap for the one piece seal?
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,796 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,796 | Not necessarily, although it would probably be a good idea. The seal lip itself will accomodate a diameter difference of around .015" according to the specifications, but the metal ring it's mounted into likes round holes. I think I'd set up the oil clearances first, then remove the crankshaft and reinstall the rear main cap including the right shim pack before boring the counterbore for the seal. My boring bar centers itself in the rear main bearing bore to make the seal counterbore concentric with the crankshaft. I made a 1" thick flat steel plate fixture that bolts onto the back of the block using the bell housing bolt holes, to secure the boring bar.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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