The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts New guy with '35 1.5 ton questions.

Here I go....I just bought a 1935 1.5 ton flat bed. The guy I bought it from tore it apart in '71 and never put it back together. Its in pretty good shape. It was an old forest service truck and theres even came with a Nessasary to the War Effort letter showing gas usage for the year 1942!

Anyway, Ive owned a '50 3100, but nothing this big or old. I'd appreciate any advise and references to parts and literature.

I have to get it on the road by February to win a bet!

Thanks
RS

Sorry about the topic screw up. I know even less about computers than I do about old trucks.

hey RS, welcome to the garage - yer first screw up was making a bet like that!! but there's lotsa folks here who'll offer help as you go along - keep an eye on the SwapMeet forums for parts, and the guys who might have stuff for 35 - your biggest problem will prolly be brake parts - check out the links pages here to find suppliers who might cover the year and find a shop manual, which will be very useful if one's available

for the topic title, all ya gotta do is go back and click on the little pencil/paper icon at the top of yer first post and edit it to a new title - pretty easy to do what needs doin in this ol shop, but sometimes a manual is useful, just like w/ the trucks

Bill

Bill,

Thanks. I just edited my first post. As for the truck, I fooled with the guages today. Theyre near mint but some nimrod cut the sensor tubes for the oil pressure and temp sending units. Ever try to repair something like this?

This truck cab is more wood than steel!

yeah the old ones can be a bear if there's rotten wood - I think there's guys around that have patterns for some years - the cut capillary tubes have to be professionally replaced, but there are places that can do it, so the good gauges aren't a loss - you may want to update the engine sometime, and there's folks here that can advise on that I think - good luck w/ it and keep pluggin away on that deadline

Bill

Bill,

What do you mean by "update". Right now theres nothing but the block sitting in the frame. The last guy stripped everything off of it. I'm assuming its a 216 with babbitt bearings. Depending on whether he kept everything, which he seems to have done, but if not, I might go ahead and drop a 235 in. Its a shame he tore this truck so completely apart. It only had 23,000 miles on it.

Shame it was tore apart. depening on he amount of free time you have and monetary resources you may get it together by Feb. When I bought my 38 1.5 my grandmother said I was too much like my grandfather and it would never see the road again. I had it tagged in a few months.

If all the parts (or most of them) are there, it shouldn't be a problem to do in a few months of weekend work.

On the engine, i'd score a good running 235 and put in there.

It should have a 206.8 C.I. three main bearing engine (sometimes called a 206 and sometimes a 207). A 235 is not a drop-in, but there is info on the swap in this site's archives. The good news is that the 207 is longer than a 216 and the 235 will fit in the engine compartment without moving the radiator.

Stopping the truck quickly in modern traffic is a problem with the original mechanical brakes.

Baldy

R.Smith if you can get yourself over to the vccachat.org I can probably help you with your truck. I have a 1934 PB dump truck and a 1935 EB pickup and I think I can help you with your heat gauge. 207 cu.in engines are easy to get. It uses a master engine with standard intake manifold. Chevrolet mechanical brakes if maintained are very good at stopping the trucks with 1935 being better than 1934. They sure are a lot safer than a single cylinder hydralic master cylinder.