The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Completed Journals 1950 Chevy 3600

I purchased a 1949 (1950) Chevy 3600 truck that appears to be in original configuration with an in-line 6-cylinder engine and 4 speed floor shift transmission. The title says it is a 1949 but the serial number decoding indicates it is actually a 1950. The shock configuration (tubular type) appears to confirm the 1950 rather than 1949 vintage (see photos attached). The overall thought is to have a great looking functional truck that I could drive and take to car shows.

I am in process of disassembly to identify what needs work (primarily body rust repair in the typical locations) and developing my project plans. The original concept was to convert the drivetrain to utilize a SBC 383, coupled to a NV3500 transmission, with a revised ratio (4.11) in the original rear axle, update the brakes to disk front and rear, but retain the original suspension and axle mounting/springs with the wheels and tires updated to more recent technology. An alternative concept is to retain the original 6-cylinder engine and transmission and basically restore more or less to original. I would probably still upgrade the front, and possibly rear brakes to disk as well as update the wheels and tires to more recent technology.

I suspect that there a number of opinions regarding the two concept paths and would appreciate input before I decide which path to take.

Plan for bed sides: determine location of existing box side angle strips, remove original strips, repair box sides as needed, purchase and install new box side angle strips.

Plan for cab: establish correct cab to frame spacing with front and rear cab mounting points secured, remove rusted floor sections and replace with patch panels (one area at a time), then remove cab from frame to remove rusted cab corners and replace with patch panels. More information in Sheet Metal Shop area.

Engine ID reported to be a 235 made between 1957 and 1962 for the passenger cars with 3-speed transmissions. T = Tonawanda Engine Plant; 8 = Month (August); 06 = Day; A = Regular 235 for passenger cars with 3-speed transmission. Subsequent engine block (3737004) casting and cylinder head (3866848) cast numbers determined. Also located tag that indicates it is bored 0.060 oversize, have 0.010 undersize rod journals, and I believe 0.010 undersize crank journals. Sounds like it is not worth keeping but may be able to sell all or parts. More information in Engine Shop Area.

Conflicted regarding powertrain direction.

I have a NV3500 from a 1995 GMC Sierra 4WD (with the transfer case) but adaption to 2WD is a challenge. Considering using the NV3500 with an adapter to the original mid-drive shaft (torque tube) but requires parts and machining to end up with a two-piece drive shaft that may not be ideal. Locating a manual transmission with OD for a 2WD truck application appears to be challenging and possibly expensive. Clutch actuation from the pedal to the throw out bearing will also be challenging.

Automatic transmissions seem to be readily available but newer versions are electronic which raises the question of doing a complete LS engine and transmission installation rather than using the 1991 350/383 engine option. If I go the LS route, I could purchase either an engine/transmission combination with the wiring and ECUs but programing the ECUs for the existing rear axle ratio etc. would require something I don’t know how to do. I could also consider purchasing a wrecked truck to obtain the required LS engine/transmission parts and possibly some additional items such as rear axle, seats, steering column, etc.

Anyone out there that has done an LS swap with electronic automatic transmission that could provide insight regarding fit issues and ECU programming issues would be appreciated.

PM BarnFind49

Located an NV3500 2wd transmission and plan to purchase/pick up 1/23/2022.

The engine machine shop has confirmed that my 350 block is okay, next step is to determine what block machining is required.

After decisions are made about the bore size need to work on ordering engine parts (including decision regarding 350 or 383 displacement). First blush is to go with the 383 but depending on heads and cam the increased compression ratio could be a concern (would like to retain regular gas).

Appears my driveline direction is taking shape with the 350/383 SBC engine, NV3500 manual transmission, etc. The existing (original) rear axle ratio will result in higher engine rpm at 60 mph cruise than optimum but with taller tires should be acceptable.

It has been cold here in WI so I have generally been limited to working on fenders, etc. that I can easily carry from the back shed where the truck is located to a heated garage. Primarily working on rust repair and banging out some of the larger dents. Overall the fenders are in good shape but that doesn't mean that there aren't rust issues to be resolved, primarily at the bottom edges, and some cracks.

When the weather has allowed I have started working on bracing my door openings prior to removal/replacement of floor sections and cowl panels. I have ordered and received patch panels for the floor, inner and outer cowl, fuel filler opening, and rear cab corners. My plan remains to do as much of the floor and cowl repair as possible with the cab mounted to the frame, then remove the cab to complete the cab work and also work on the frame. The frame appears to be in good condition but with all the grease and grim accumulated over the years I will not really know until I can get it cleaned up. I did find the driver's side rear running board bracket is broken below the top mounting rivets so I need to decide if I am going to repair it in place or remove it for repair.

I picked up a set of seats from a 1999 Chevy truck that include the integrated seat belts. The front and two sides of the original seat riser were previously removed. Setting the seats in roughly their intended position I think I want to raise the seats roughly 1 1/2 inches above the existing cab floor with their seat tracks against the remaining original rear seat riser. with approximately 6" between the seats. I am developing a plan for a combination seat riser/floor reinforcement structure but continuing to work through the details to ensure both structure and safety.

We have not had the best luck with the NV 3500 (or T5) trans in anything with a lot of torque and/or big rubber. Fine for cruising or showing but iffy if hammered. As far as clutch actuation is concerned the factory set up from the 60-62 Chevy pickup hydraulic system can be used or from early 90's Chevy pickups that came with the NV 3500. We used the McCloed after market hydraulic TO bearing and plumbed it in. Concerning overdrive transmissions one can still pickup the old BW 3sp OD unit at swap meets for $250-$500 and it is as strong as the T5 or 3500 and gives a final gear of 3.05 with a 4.56 or 2.88 with the 4.11. Just make sure the solenoid is good before purchase. I came to Texas 60 years ago from Minnesota and can relate to wintertime difficulties in working on old rides. First winter in Texas found out it's WAY easier to shovel sunshine.

Coilover, thanks for your input regarding the transmission. I realize that the NV3500 is somewhat limited regarding torque capacity but I have had some experience with it behind a SBC in another project and I think it should be okay for my plans for the truck. I will look for the early 90's factory clutch setup that you mentioned.

Continuing to work on patching minor rust, crack issues on sheet metal parts that I can move into my heated shop area. Considering the truck looked pretty solid as I dig into it every part seems to have some rust or crack that needs to be repaired. At least I can continue to work on the project a few hours each day and feel like it's not just waiting for warmer weather.

I ordered the rotating assembly parts required to build a 383 SBC and the machine shop is machining the block as required to clear the rods. I order dished pistons to keep the compression ratio in the 9:1 range so that I have a chance to run regular fuel rather than premium but still have not decided on cylinder heads or cam for the engine build. Unfortunately the parts I ordered are not expected to be available until May so the engine build will probably be conflicting with the cab, frame, etc. work I need to due during the warmer months.

I am working on the cab when the weather cooperates (not often) but have braced the door openings and made some preliminary plans regarding how much of the floor, firewall, inner and outer cowl panels, etc. to cut out.

Unfortunately the project is at a stage where I have a thousand ideas of things I need to consider and no ability to actually move forward on them because they are dependent on getting the cab work done enough to remove the cab from the frame, getting the frame cleaned and painted, etc. I probably need to create a detailed action plan to lay out the sequence of things that need to be done so that I don't loose track of things given the large number of sub-project activities that interact.

Started the cab patch panel work today by cutting out the floor, firewall, inner, and outer cowl panels on the passenger side. More details in the body and paint section.

I picked up the cylinder block from the machine shop and dropped off the original cylinder heads for cleaning, valve job, etc. Looking at options regarding accessory mounting (see Hi-Pro section) so that when I get the parts to start engine assembly I know what water pump rotation and length to buy.

Still plugging along on the cab repair and appear to have decided on a path forward for the passenger side. Still a fair amount of work to be done but progress is being made.

I picked up the cylinder heads from the machine shop and am now waiting for the rotating assembly parts (expected in early May) to move forward with the engine build.

We bolters love pictures! You know the saying, “a picture is worth a thousand words”!

I welded in the panels on the passenger side. I still need to do some work but decided to move on to the driver's side repairs.

For more details and pictures please refer to the Body and Paint Shop Area.

I understand that the preferenc is to post pictures etc. regarding project progress here rather than the Body and Paint Shop Area so in the future I will be posting more here and less in the various project sections.

I am working on the driver's side floor and cowl panels now and have them screwed in place. Other than the fit issues between the floor and the inner cowl and the 1/2" gap between the driver's and passenger side floor panels it is going fairly well. I fit checked the door and after a self induced problem was resolved the fit looks pretty good so I plan to continue my efforts to get the floor and cowl panels weled in place (probably several steps and another door fit check along the way).

Driver's side floor and cowl panels screwed in place, door fit confirmed. Next step is to fill all the "extra" holes for features not being used (parking brake, clutch & brake pedal, etc.), add filler piece for center gap and upper left corner of floor/firewall.

Once I have the floor and cowl panels in place I plan to move on to fabrication of the seat riser/mounting bracket. th eoriginal seat riser had been removed (mostly) by someone prior and the remaining portion (rear) is modified. My plan is to tie the rear of the new seat mounting braket to the remaining portion and also the floor and door latch pillars.

I have the initial welding completed for the driver's side floor and cowl panels. I closed up most of the holes in the floor that I do not anticipate being used prior to installation.

I started on my seat mounting bracket and checked the seat position relative to the steering column firewall hole/dash mounting and foot position related to the floor and all seems good. The seats are from a 99 Silverado with integrated seat belts and the seat bracket will provide 1 1/2 inch rise to get the seat cushion approximately at the factory seat height. The seat mounting bracket will be attached to the floor and the rear original seat riser (only remaining part) with the seat mounting bolts going through the bracket and floor to further secure everything. The front mounting bolts will require the bracket to be shimmed from the floot due to the recess formed in the floor pan but the intent is for the final bolt column to be solid to avoid any deflection of the floor pan related to the mounting bolts.

I have the seat frame built and placed, bolted using seat mounting bolts (6 of 8). I plan to paint the bottom side of the frame and the floor area that will be covered prior to welding in the frame. The plan is to weld the frame to the remaining original seat riser at the rear, the door latch posts, as well as the floor at the front edge of both cross angles. The inner front seat mounting bolt area is high enough above the floor that nuts were welding into the frame rather than going through the floor. The rear seat mounting bolts required a single washer on the bottom of the frame to make up for the thickness of the cross angle, but the outer front mounting bolt locations required a stack of 6 washers to be welded in place as a spacer to make up the gap to the floor. All bolts that go through the floor are being secured with large, thick fender washers to spread the load on the floor. I had considered welding the washers to the floor but have decided against that due to concern that the welds would cause more harm than good.

Once the seat frame is welded in place I plan to remove the cab from the frame to allow the bottom side floor and cowl panel welding etc. to the cab as well as work on the frame.

I got the seat frame welded in place and proceeded to pull the cab off the frame. I used a cherry picker (engine hoist) to lift the cab from the two new front outside mouting bolt locations which seemed to be fine until I got the cab clear of the frame and the lack of a third lift point allowed the cab to rotate. I ws able to get the cab onto a dolly I made with a pallet but then proceeded to tip the cab on its back to allow finishing the welding of the floor and cowl panels. Once the front area work is complete I plan to flip it onto the firewall to allow work on the rear cab corner area that also needs attention.

I plan to pressure wash the frame and remove anything (pedals, brake lines, etc.) prior to sand blasting and painting the frame. I do need to resolve a front brake issue as it generally rolls free but occasionaly the brake engages and prevents the wheel from rotating.

Biggest challenge now with the cab off the frame and engine build parts expected in the near future will be scheduling time to work on all three fronts (frame, cab, and engine) in the most efficient way. Ideally I will be able to do an initial engine/transmission fit check to determine what I need to do about the original rear engine mount before I get too far into the frame painting portion of the project. To faciliate the confirmation of engine/transmission vs. cab I may need to be able to temporarily put the cab back on the frame so I need to develop a better lifting plan that keeps the cab level next time.

A 4x4 attached to the end of the engine lift boom thru both door opening with doors off, works great for lifting the cab. You’ll have to lift and reset the 4x4 a couple of times to find the balance point. Once balanced, secure it with ratchet straps.

Here is a link on how one member, ‘klhansen’ did it.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...or-not-1950-five-window.html#Post1394371

Phak1, thanks for the additional option for lifting the cab.

I worked on the cab a little but spent the majority of my time yesterday on the chassis. Pressure washed to remove most of the years of accumulated debris, removed the brake lines, pedal assembly and related bracket, parking brake cross shaft and related parts, front and rear bumpers, shocks, and right front brake shoes (spring was broken resulting in periodic brake lock up).

I also recieved my order (Sunday delivery, Yeah) from Jim Carter so I can work on engine mtg and related transmission mtg bracket location/install.

I have tack welded the engine mounts in place on the frame and then used the engine block/transmission combination to locate the new transmission support. The original rear engine mounting cross member interferred with the transmission housing, primarily the portion housing the slave cylinder/clutch actuator so I removed the center portion leaving the sides that reinforce the frame in the area of the front axle spring mount.

The new transmission cross member was located for/aft by the engine mount locations dictating the engine/transmission location and then the vertical position was determined to give the engine block a 3-4 degree drop to the rear. The transmission cross member brackets needed to be oriented with the longer side horizontal resulting in significant angle disparity between the brackets and the frame, due to the frame taper. I reduced the cross tube engagement with the side brakets to less than 1" to provide more angle flexability to get the brackets tight against the frame. The brakcets needed to be located approx. 2 1/4" above the lower frame flange to achieve the desired engine angle. With all in place the bracket mounting bolt holes were drilled and the brackets mounted. The center section location was adjusted to center the transmission output shaft side to side and then the center section was tack welded to both brackets.

I have measurements for the cab relative to the frame from before the cab was removed and confirmed that the vertical firewall should be located approx. at the rear of the engine block. As I do not have the heads, intake, or distributor in place it's a little hard to confirm clearances but I am fairly confident it should be good. I also checked the shifter location relative to the opening in the cab floor and that looks like it should be good.

Next step is to fully weld in the engine mounts and fully weld the transmisison mount tubes.

I am considering fabricating a means to reinstall the removed original cross member as a bolt in but it will need to be located further back and probably a little lower than the original location.

I determined that the removed cross member needed to be shifter rearward about the width of the channel and I increased vertical clearance by dropping it down approx. 1/2". Tacked in place with the bolt in plates it provides good clearance to the transmission housing where the integrated clutch slave cylinder is located as well as the bottom of the transmission.

In parrallel I am working on installing the rear cab corner patch panels. The driver's side I needed to fabricate a replacment inner panel in addition to installing the outer patch panel. I still have some work to do but ready to move on to the passenger side.

I installed the passenger side rear cab corner patch panel, the inner panel was okay. I also installed the patch panel for the fuel filler in the cab (I plan to use a rear frame mounted fuel tank).

I painted the underside of the cab with an epoxy primer, next step is to apply seam sealer, and body filler where needed.

I purchased and did a preliminary installation of a 15 gallon fuel tank to determine if any frame modifications would be required prior to having the frame blasted, primed, and painted.

The tank is from Tanks Inc. (USPT-HG) and did not require any modifications to the frame cross members but I did add two straps across the top so that when the tank support straps are installed there is something other than the bed cross member to restrict the tank moving up. I split a piece of heater hose and slipped it over the lower rear frame cross member to asct as a cushion. I plan to cut it down to be pieces that are slightly wider than the tank support straps to minimize the potential to trap dirt and moisture. The tank straps will come from the forward cross angle to the rear frame cross member.

The tank is short enough fore-aft that it fit up into the frame with the front cross angel in place. With the tank flange tight up against the rear cross member lower flange (actually the hose cushion) the top of the tank has clearance to the bed cross member that is located approximately mid tank. Note that the cross member in the pictures is the original as I have not purchased the new bed cross sills yet).

The tank is narrow enough that I anticipate having room to run dual exhaust pipes out the back of the truck.

The tank does still hang down below the frame but I don't think it will be objectionable visually and it is higher than the lower shock mounting brackets as well as the differential center section.

The tank has multiple filler options but I plan to use the option that angles out of the passenger side rear corner that has enough up slope to clear the frame with the tank centnered side-to-side. I plan to run the filler into the passenger side rear fender area. I have not determined which filler style I will use yet but anticipate I will use a piece of exhaust tubing (not sure if it will be straight or require a bend to clear the bed floor at the bed side) and associated rubber hose connections to connect the outside fill location to the tank.

The sending unit opening is forward of the bed cross sill so no interfernce concerns and I am running a carburetor with an in-line fuel pump so the top filler/pump opendings can be closed off with the plates provided. If someone wants to install an in-tank pump at some point in the future the bed cross sill may cause interference but I believe the easiest solution would probably be to lower the tank slightly.

I painted the underside of the cab with rustoleum rattle can gloss black.

I am preparing the frame for blasting and painting, still trying to decide if I should leave the axles in place or remove).

I removed the axles (with springs attached) and took the frame to be blasted and painted.

I decided I really wanted to confirm the rear axle and I could not find any markings that would confirm the ratio so I removed the rear cover, still no information stamped into the ring gear so I just counted the ring gear teeth - got 32 so that aligns with the expected 4.57:1 axle expected for the 1949/50 3600 model designation.

I finally received the parts for my engine build (383 from a 1991 TBI 350) and am slowing working on prep of the block etc. for the assembly process.

I have made progress on finishing the rear cab corner patches and the fuel tank filler patch. I am trying to decide if this is the time to strip and prime the reat of the back and the outside top of the cab.

I need to get busy on the engine build. My plan is to have the engine and transmission together and installed in the frame before I put the cab back on, but plans can change.

I have the engine build completed to the point of being able to install the transmission and soon install the combined unit into the truck frame. I still need to decide if I am keeping the original rocker covers or replacing them as well as a lot of plumbing related to the intake manifold but that will all be sorted out in time.

I received the frame back from the paint shop. It looks great (ignore the water spots in the attached photo). Now I need to reinstall the axles (less brake parts) to make the chassis mobile. Once the axles are in place I plan to install the engine-transmission then the cab to determine if everything clears or modifications are required.

Installed the axles, although I do not have the tie rod in place, so I have independent front wheel steering at the moment.

Installed the engine and transmission combination.

I have some work to do on the cab but next big step is going to be installing the cab onto the frame to determine if any modifications are required to clear the engine/transmission.

I installed the cab temporarily to check clearances and found that I needed ot modify the transmission clearance for the bell housing (NV3500) area. With the modifications made the cab sitting in the correct location as defined by the front cab mounting bolts there is good distributor clearance to the firewall.

Need to get the cab exterior repairs completed so that I can get the cab installed.

Continuing to work on cab cleaning/priming prior to installation on the frame.

Recieved and attempted to install front disk brake conversion kit. The kit is listed for 55-59 but is suppose to work on '50 spindles with slight enlargement of the bracket mounting holes. However, the bracket notch is not wide enough to seat properly onto the machined surface of the spindle. Given that I will need to machine the spindle to clear in addition to enlarging the bolt holes I plan to remove the spindles, have them machined as required and reinstall. I will take advantage of the opportunity to inspect the king pins and related bushings (they seem good).

Installed the front disk brake conversion lit. The interference problem previously mentioned was resolved with the spacers included in the kit that secure the bracket away from the spindle surface. Unfortunately the kit does not include any instructions but with the spacers installed the bracket mounting surface for the caliper is parrallel to the rotor surface. The spindles needed to have the upper mounting holes enlarged from 7/16 to 1/2" which doesn't sound like much except the spindles are hardened so they can not be drilled.

I did remove the king pins and the pins and bushings all look good, but now I need to find a source for the caps that go into the axle above and below the pin to prevent the grease from leaking out and letting dirt in.

Installed the cab on to the frame and removed the temporary braces from the door openings. The cab mounts are redone with new rubber bushings in the rear and isolator pads in the front.

I still have a lot of work to do on the cab but this is a giant step in the project.

Looking great! It is a milestone!

I have been working on the adaption of the S10 brake booster/master and related pedal backet for both the clutch and brake (see HighPro forum for details) utilizing a C1500/2500 clutch master cylinder. All the fluid addition related access points will now be under the hood and easily accessable.

I basically have the system worked out and while I need to make a few tweaks I think I have the system basics in place.

With those details sorted out I can get back to finishing up the cab interior body work and get the underside of the dash and floor area painted.

I am also making progress on the 14-bolt rear axle swap but need to get spring perches and U-bolts before I go much further. In the mean time the original Eaton H052 axle is in place to keep the chassis mobile.

Taking a road trip so no progress expected for the next couple of weeks but generally I am trying to work on some aspect of the project every day to keep things moving forward.

I have what I believe is the final version of the pedal bracket ready for paint.

Back to working on the interior of the cab to finish the patch panel areas and prep for priming/painting.

The radio knob holes have been butchered over the years and I am not planning to install a radio so I am considering plutting in a patch panel that will fix the mounting holes and close the larger opening. However I may just repair the knob holes to preserve the radio opening for a potential future installation.

I decided to go with Rams Horn exhaust manifolds, they look pretty good as far as frame clearance goes. I will need to do some work on spark plug wire routing. Next up is determining the steering - move the original out to clear the exhaust or convert to a newer power steering gear box.

I painted the underside of the dash and the interior firewall area. Not pretty but it will eventually be covered with sound adsorbing material so not a concern.

Installed the pedal assembly with the brake booster/master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder.

I need to keep working on the cab to get any painting/priming work done before cold weather sets in.

Ordered the parts for the 14-bolt axle conversion also.

I am hoping to have the cab primed, steering resolved, and rear axle swap completed before I relocate the chassis to the unheated back shed for the winter.

I am in process of relocating the standard steering gear outward to clear the exhaust manifolds and fabricating a new drag link to be mounted inboard of the pitman arm to provide something close to the original steering geometry.

I have the 14-bolt rear axle in place and it is clear now why I needed to relocate the brake backing plates outward and use shallower brake drums as the U-bolt to frame clearance is still pretty close. I am still working on the lower shock mounting brackets to finish the 14-bolt installation.

I cleaned and primed the cab door openings and rocker panels and treated the interior cab with POR-15.

I am working on a revised transmission cover to deal with the NV3500 transmission shifter location and the firewall/floor modificatoins required for transmission clearance.

I transferred the lower shock mounting brackets from the original HO axle to the 14-bolt axle.

I installed the fuel tank, although I need to replace the hardware before it is complete. The filler tube will be sorted out when I get the bed supports and sides ready to be installed (a ways off) with the filler expected to be in the rear fender.

I fabricated a transmission opening cover in part from the original and in part new.

Fabricated a hydraulic line from the clutch master to the slave using the ends from a replacement C1500 line with added line material. The clutch slave or clutch appear to be locked up so I need to sort that out at some point.

I'm working on installing the water pump pulley and alternator but dealing with pulley alignment issues. Based a preliminary measurement it appears that the clutch fan arrangement from the original 1991 350 engine should have radiator clearance but installation will require the water pump pulley to be modified due to differenet bolt circles (water pump has both).

Waiting on my custom drag link and modified pitman arm and spindle bracket to assemble the steering and evaluate the strength of the relocation bracket for the steering gear. The custom drag link uses 1 ton GM rod ends with the pitman arm and spindle bracket modified for tapered rod end connections.

Plan to tackle brake lines and fuel lines in the near future.

I needed to replace the clutch slave cylinder as the piston was stuck in the bore, upon further inspection the bore was corroded pretty badly.

I installed the relocated steering gear/column, pitman arm, new drag link, etc. and modified the inner fender to clear the relocated steering gear. While I have the inner fender roughly in place I verified that my clutch hydraulic line cleared the modification I made to the inner fender for clearance.

Expecting some of the brake lines and materials for fuel lines via FedEx today. The line for the front brakes coming from the proprtioning valve is 5/16" (1/2" thread) to match the prop valve but the tees that I have are for 1/4" line (7/16" thread) so I need to adapt at some point. The lines to the front disk brakes are 3/16" (3/8" thread fitting) so they also need adaption. Perhaps there is a better way to get everything to match up?

I have the brake lines all run but having problems with the banjo bolt copper washers on the front calipers. Apparently the washer ID is large enough that the washer can move out of position relative to the hose end fitting creating a leak path. I annealed the washers and tried to ensure they were centered as I tightened the banjo bolt but the driver's side still has a leak.

I changed the fluid in the 14-bolt rear axle and drained the fluid from the NV3500 transmission, just need to install the new fluid.

I have been sidelined by a case of influenza since Thanksgiving so things have been at a standstill. Hopefully in the near future my health will improve and I will be able to get back at it.

I would run down to your FLAPS and get the correct size copper washers. They'll have an assortment of them to chose from. Don't bet your life on a "that should work" solution on brakes.

Get well soon.

Are the banjo bolt washers part of the conversion "kit" that you received???

Could be they were not the proper size, or just poor quality offshore items.

Maybe worth taking a banjo bolt to the local FLAPS (with knowledge of what caliper you are using) and get them to help select a proper fitting washer???

Definitely one place you do not want a leak at - yikes!

Sorry to hear about having the BUG (ugh). Hope you can get recovered soon!

The banjo bolts and washers were part of the conversion kit and I agree they seem to be the incorrect size. The hose ends are relatively narrow between the inside and outside and the washer IDs are larger than the banjo bolt alllowing them to shift. I think if I can hold the washer concentric with the hose end while tightening the banjo bolt they will work but my next stop is the local FLAPS to get new washers.

Working on filling the radio holes in the dash (knob holes had been butchered) and I don't plan to install a radio.

Also started working on the driver's side door. The rusted out bottom of the door was expected but I discovered more issues with the door latch and window regulator that I had expected. Appears that the window crank handle shaft is damaged and the door outside handle shaft that engages the latch is also broken. The good news is the glass is good and the window regulator winds the window up/down using a vice grips as a handle.

I am making significant progress on the passenger side door (driver's side put off for now).

I also did make some progress on the passenger bed side with some rust patch panels in place and rear stake pocket removed (pending replacement).

I seem to be going in multiple directions at the same time and while making progress it is more like a shot gun blast than a rifle shot. I ordered a drive shaft and all of the parts related to the bed (probably premature). I'm also exploring how to deal with instruments (GPS speedometer, voltmeter, etc.) while not really being anywhere near ready for them.

Man those bed sides look familiar. I had rust-outs in the same places.

A tip on your next patch: Use radiused instead of sharp corners. It will be easier to planish out the shrinkage at the corners which should be less because of the radius.

Have you reviewed MPandC's sticky thread on welding sheet metal up at the top of the Paint and Body Shop Forum? A good read and good advice.

Kevin, I reviewed MPandC's sticky but that was a while ago and probably should look at it again.

I looked over your bed side pictures and there are definitely some similarities. In my case the angles were basically rusted away and tended to take the bed side with them (at least in the front and back). My fender mounting areas were not as bad as yours.

The driver's side door is going to be basically a full width inner and outer patch panel so making sure that I know where the bottom needs to be before I cut off both areas will be critical. My current plan is to make a carbboard template that I can bolt in place on the inner panel (because its flatter) to idenitfy the bottom edge location but I am open to suggestions.

Continuing to work on doors and bed sides but got my order from Mar-K for all my bed related parts (cross sills, bed side angle brackets, rear stake pockets, wood, strips, etc. so I needed to make sure everything was as expected.

Did a preliminary layout of the cross sills on the frame and then laid the bed wood out and all looked good.

I welded the rear stake pockets to both bed sides and did a preliminary installation of the bed side angle brackets using the fender mounting holes that intersect. Angle strips are very tight on top of the edge boards, especially toward the front so I need to try and raise them slightly when drilling holes for the strips to be bolted to the bed sides (planning to bolt rather than weld to provide a little flexability if needed).

I proceeded to mark and drill all the holes in the edge boards for the angle strip bolts then marked and drilled holes to mount the angle strips to the bed sides. There are going to be a few bolts showing between the front stake pockets but most of the bolts will be either under the fender or in the stake pockets. The rear strip to side bolt will need a weld nut inside the stake pocket as there is no reall way to access a loose nut on the inside.

I marked the passenger bed side for the fuel tank filler pass through and the driver's bed side for the fuel tank vent line.

Now I need to take it all apart and continue work required on the bed sides.

Continuing to work on multiple sub-projects.

I have bed sides have been set aside after the angle strip bolts have all been located and weld nuts for the rear most bolts being installed. Holes for the fuel filler tube and tank vent tube have been cut into the respective sides.

Started working on the passenger side inner front fender, replacing a weld nut and welding up and redrilling holes where the front edge inner and outer fender meet that were broken out. Primed and painted the inner side (toward engine) but need to strip undercoating or ?? from the wheel side before I can paint.

Fabricated a fan shroud that mounts with the radiator mounting bolts and supports the electric fan. Still needs some work but I did an intial fit check to confirm that the electric fan clears the engine pulleys. The radiator support may move up for fender alignment and will be stabilized side to side when the inner fenders are attached but clearance looks good.

I decided that I should finish the wood (pine) for my bed even though it will be a while before I am ready to assemble the bed. I am using an original treatment of penetrating epoxy from Smith & Company followed by a spar varnish. It is taking a while as there are a number of coats to be applied ot both sides of the wood.

Took advantage of the recent warm weather (it is suppose to snow tomorrow) to make a junk yard run. Picked up a gas pedal and cable, a fuel filler, a horn, and shifter boot all of which will require some adaptation but at least give me something to start with. Still a little hard to visualize how I will fashion the fuel filler into the rear fender but hopefully it will become clearer when I can mount the bed side and fender to get a better idea of the spacial relationship between the fender and the filler hose pathway.

I'm not familiar with you year, but do the wood planks require an special edge that goes under the metal strip that connects the edge of the boards? I had to create that edge so the metal strip sat properly on my 1940 Chevy PU.

I used a penetration epoxy covered with a UV protector and worked fine. Just pay attention to the ends... It soaks up a lot if it's dry..

I also found that assembling the bed before I finished the planks saved a lot of Hassel when they didn't fit as I thought they would and I had to modify them, screwing up my finish and the seal.

Mike

Paul’s gmc parts site has all the lumber dimension.

Yes the board have a feature on the edge that is clamped by the strip that provides for the edge of the strip to engage and provide clearance for the strip material between that feature and the edge as shown in Kevinski's pictures.

Finished the top side of the bed boards and put them back into storage as it will be a while before I am ready to assemble the bed.

I think I will prime and paint the bed cross sills to get them protected while being stored waiting for the bed assembly process.

Back to working on the driver's side inner front fender with the hopes of getting the front assembly of the inner front fenders and radiator support completed knowing that I will need to adjust the radiator support mounting when it comes time to install the front fenders.

Still seems like I am heading in six directions at once but it all needs to be done sooner or later so as long as I can manage my expectations it should be fine.

"Short" list of pending "to-do" items includes inner front fender installation, painting interior of the cab (including inside of doors), exhaust system, painting a top coat over Por-15 on rear axle, rebuilding instrument cluster, refurbishing and installing heater, etc. etc.

I fully understand that feeling, it seems like I never complete any one project before starting another. I'm working on so many different things on my truck all at once.

I got the driver's side inner front fender cleaned up, painted, and installed. Everything will need to be touched up but it felt good to have things going together.

My thought process being that with the inner front fenders, radiator support, etc. installed I should be able to start to layout the electrical system, plumb the cooling system, etc. However, before I can start those processes I need to get the heater refurbished and installed and the interior of the cab painted.

I started painting the bed cross sills to help preservee them until I get to the bed assembly stage (a ways down the road).

Heater core is in poor condition so a recore is in process (pricy to be sure).

Primed and painted the bed cross sills with Rustoleum except the exposed portion of the rear that was primed only.

Started stripping the outside of the driver's side door to prime before I paint the finished color on the inside.

Project is on hold for the moment as we purchased a 1997 Chevy 1500 for my grandson (just turned 16) that needs the engine rebuilt/replaced. I may take this opportunity to get the truck to the exhaust shop for the exhaust system to be formed/installed.

Man, this truck is looking good! Keep it up. I took my heater core an old ma and pop shop locally, and it only cost me $150 IIRC. It wasn’t over $200. It wasn’t a recore job either. They built me one new using the old as a pattern.

I don't have the final cost yet for my heater core but the initial estimate was around $400 just because it is so large. A lot more than required for a simple truck cab.

The shop is a small mom and pop type reported to provide reasonable pricing but these days just finding a place to do this type of work is challenging.

Really impressed. Did you cut out around the rusted parts only, or did your cut out whole sections? I am not sure what to do. I have rust but some holes only on the passenger side. I was thinking of just cutting the rusted parts and leaving the driver’s side untouched. Thanks Eric

Thanks, compared to some on this site my amature status is pretty clear but I am pretty happy with how the project is going so far. Although the whole project has been on hold for a few months while I work on a different project truck (1997 Chevy 1500) for my grandson.

Generally I cut out large sections that included the rusted areas. In retrospec I probably should have gone further in some areas. I bought patch panels such as floor pan pieces that went back almost to the seat area but cut them off to match the cut out floor area, similar process with the inner and outer cowl panels. The inner to outer cowl panels were the short versions. I was lucky in that my rocker panels from the door hinge post back and my door hinge posts were in good condition. My seat riser had been removed by a previous owner but I was planning on updated seats anyway so that wasn't a big problem. I have done selected area cut outs and patch installations on the fenders, box sides, and replaced the rear stake pockets to resolve rusted out rear box cross member and hinge mounting areas.

The body work support on this forum is great. I am sure if you post pictures of what you have you will get a lot of advice (sometimes conflicting) about how best to proceed.

Not totally done with the alternate project (97 C1500) but starting to get back to this project.

Realized that I was getting ahead of myself (again) working on finishing the prep-paint on the door when I plan to install the Altman door latch kit. Took advantage of one of the vendors Labor Day sale to get the latches on order.

Planning to get the exhaust system in place in the near future (I suspect the exhaust shop is thinking I may never show up) but need to make some trailer repairs and install some of the bed parts (so he knows what to avoid) before I can get it hauled there - always something.

I have made a little progress and have a partial install of the bed so the exhaust shop knows what needs clearance. I have an appointment to get the exhaust installed later this month.

I started the install of the Altman door latches on the driver's door. I still need to work on cleaning up the cuts and confirm the release lever to the inside handle clears the opening but at least it is a little progress. Wanted to get the cuts all made and cleaned up prior to continuing the painting efforts on the doors.

Got the exhaust system installed. No pictures up near the engine but the exhaust pipes were pretty tight getting turned and over the original-relocated frame cross brace. The rear axle area is also a bit tight given the relocated fuel tank. I will need to relocate my fuel pump to get more clearance but it isn't connected to the engine yet and the flexible line from the tank is easy to replace with a longer section.

Now I need to remove and restore the bed parts for near term. At least I know how they fit together at this point. I'll probably leave the rear bumper on for now just so I am not constantly running into the tail pipes.

Got the fuel pump relocated, actually a lot happier with the mounting now as I eliminated the bracket that came with the pump and replaced the original mounting studs with some I had in inventory. Replaced the fuel line from the tank to the filter and tucked the filter inside the frame bracket. Routed the fuel line away from the exhaust.

Back to working on the doors, stripping off old paint on the outside so they can be primed and any repairs made before I paint the interior surfaces with color.

Trying to determine what temperature I need for the Eastman rattle can epoxy color paint to cure. The infromation I can find only refers to cure time at 68 degrees but doesn't say anything about temperature range (other than cure time will vary). Turned pretty chiily here so shop is set to hold at 50 degrees for now. I can warm it up but don't want to get carried away. Hoping to get the interior of the cab, including the inside of the doors done before winter really sets in.

If I can get the interior painted I can do a lot of work on things like installing the heater, wiring, cables, etc. that involve the dash area.

Painted the inside of the doors and the interior of the cab (dash and up except where headliner will cover) with an Eastwood rattle can epoxy paint. Temperature was set at 60 degrees and the paint appears to have cured okay. I still need to do some touch up but I have an unused can of paint I am holding for future use.

Need to determine where/how I am going to store the doors for now but planning to move on to heater restoration and installation and electrical (dash and engine compartment) over the winter months. I will need to decide which wiring harness to buy, where to place the fuse block, and how best to run all the electrical as none of it will be stock configuration. I can also move on to the guage cluster and make decisions about how best to incorporate a GPS speedometer, voltmeter, and if I am going to electric or mechnical oil pressure and engine coolant guages.

I should be able to work on the under/back side of the fenders and other misc parts that will be simple Rustoleum painted during the winter as well.

Hoping to be able to paint the exterior color when the weather warms up next spring although I have a lot of work to do before I get that far.

Assembled my heater (truck never had one previously) and installed along with related defrost ducts. Need to do some touch up on the paint but I finally got the inner cowl mounting bolts in place. Next step is to acually connect the heater hoses (parts on their way) as well as the radiator hoses and other items installed into the cooling system. Also need to decide what to do about the gap around the blower motor where it comes through the firewall.

Also installed the choke cable to see how it fits (now located in the throttle location to clear the electric wiper motor), as well as the heater blower switch and wiper control switch. I have a hole in place in the backet for the defrost cable to mount but do not have a cable yet.

Started the installation of the wiring. Located the fuse panel on the driver's side inner cowl panel and started running wires. The kit I purchased from Speedway has more circuits than I need and came with its own headlight switch and high beam switch. Still deciding on what direction to take on instruments but leaning toward a set made by Dolphin that fits the original dash openings, has a GPS speedometer and all electric fuel, volt, oil pressure, and coolant temperature gauges.

I determined that the ignition switch I have does not have a start position (typical of stomp starter vintage) so I either need to change switches or add a push button start switch. Need to source a brake light switch to mate up with the pedals that I retrofitted from an S10.

I purchased an instrument package from Dakota Digital that includes an electronic (not GPS) speedometer, tach, and electric versions of the oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges (came with all the sensors). The package includes a control box that I mounted on the inner cowl below the fuse panel on the drriver's side inner cowl. Working on getting all of the connections to the control box so that I can determine how best to package/route the wiring under the dash. As I am a long way from having the front and rear lights in place those wires are hanging in space for now.

Once I get the under dash wiring paths sorted out and install the gauges I will provide an update with pictures, for now it is not a pretty picture.

I did remove several circuits from the fuse panel that I will not be using to help clean things up but I need to do some more of that.

Initial installation of the wiring harness and Dakota Digital instruments (including control box) is complete. I am sure there will be some wiring adjustments made later but time to move on to another aspect of the project (so many to choose from).

Working on designing my fuel tank filler. The tank is relocated behind the rear axle with the filler existing the tank toward the passenger side, over the frame and below the bed. The plan is to pass through the bed side into the rear fender/wheel area and then turn toward the rear with the filler located somewhere on the rear surface of the fender.

I have a fuel filler part from a more recent Chevy truck that I may mount directly to the fender (it was originally connected with a plastic shape part behind a filler door) with the cap exposed. Not really the most appealing astetics but functional.

I am also considering a flush mount type fuel filler that would improve the astetics but not sure about this approach.

Anyone else have a passenger side rear fender fuel filler that would be willing to share pictures would be appreciated.

While contemplating the fuel filler I decided to install my updated tie rod ends received several months ago. Unfortunately my spindles have tapered stud connections for the tie rod ends and the replacmeents that I bought are for straight bore connections. I posted a thread in the Driveline section hoping for member insight regarding a path forward.

It maybe hard to tell from the pics, but here is my setup.
I had to go a with a bigger ID vent tube and use a metal pipe(prevent pinching there at bend) where it was exposed
to the inside fender and then put a right angle fitting at the top of the
filler. tapped and threaded. Vent Tube to that from tank.
Fender mount flush filler.

But its a driver side application. Which I prefer.

I am considering a fuel filler such as you selected - how do you like it? The "key" feature seems good except I can see it being a pain down the road needing to make sure you know where the key is.

The "key" I keep in my center console or it has a key ring hole. Its just 2 offset holes that
you could use a couple Philips to open in an emergency.
I have had positive comments on the look and location on fender.
Only draw back is fuel delivery , although doable. It takes paying attention
so it does not over deliver. I just cannot give it all the gas station pump will send.

Thanks for the information on fuel delivery. I was wondering if that would be a problem.

At the moment I am planning to use a fuel filler I salvaged from a new model Chevy truck. One of its benefits is the fuel delivery goes through an interior tube that allows air excaping the tank to exit through the filler opening around the outside of that inner tube. I am not sure how I am going to position the filler relative to the fender surface. The truck it came from had a plastic piece that positioned the filler more vertically behind a door. I don't plan on a hidden/door arangement but deciding how vertical the filler needs to be will determine where it will be placed on the fender.

With mine, I chose the flattest spot on the fender.
I think on the fender ,the next flat spot going down was going to be too low
in relationship to the filler at tank and tire height. That might have helped with fuel delivery.
The look on the side of the fender to me would look odd. So I choose where I did.
It may be too far of a drop. ..however. Just can`t walk away from it while filling using those
nozzle delivery catches.

I have completed the initial installaion of the newer model year Chevy fuel filler into the passenger side rear fender. I still need to work on finishing the hole that the filler passes through the fender, and the pieces required to connect the filler to the tank but I like how it is working out so far. The current set up uses the original screws to mount the fuel filler to the fender but they are 7m hex heads that will be exposed so I am considering changing them for some torx pan head bolts I have (that will require modification to the fuel filler part but nothing significant).

Assembly sequence will be a bit tricky as the rear fender brace that connects to the top of the frame is directly under the filler hose path from the tank. My current thought is when I eventually get to the point of assembling the painted fender onto the painted box side I will need to complete the fender installation including the rear brace, then install the fuel filler connection to the fuel tank, before installing the fuel filler to the fender. The fuel filler will consist of a hose from the tank, a stainelss steel tube connecting that hose to a 90 dgree formed hose that passes through a hole in the bed side (below the bed), connected to another pirce of stainless tube that is connected to a hose connected to the fender mounted fuel filler. I think I can assembly all of the fuel filler parts prior to installing it into the truck just mounting the fuel filler and connecting the hose to the tank but I will confirm that before I take everything apart for the painting process.

Working on multiple fronts (nothing new for this project). I am cleaning up and painting the underside of the driver's side rear fender after installing (temporarily) my fuel tank vent/roll over valve. The center fender brace is removed so that I can clean and paint the fender completely and the brace on all surfaces.

Also working on plumbing the fuel line to the carburetor, PCV valve from the rocker cover to the intake manifold, and initial installation of the air cleaner. In theory I could work through the check list of getting fuel and power to the engine to start it for the first time but I am resisting as it would be a short run time followed by a long storage period as I continue to work on the rest of the truck.

Plan to move on to the front fenders next to check repairs made to not impact the headlight installation, clean and paint the underside and related braces/brackets.