The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1950 Chevy 3600

I fabricated a transmission opening cover in part from the original and in part new.

Fabricated a hydraulic line from the clutch master to the slave using the ends from a replacement C1500 line with added line material. The clutch slave or clutch appear to be locked up so I need to sort that out at some point.

I'm working on installing the water pump pulley and alternator but dealing with pulley alignment issues. Based a preliminary measurement it appears that the clutch fan arrangement from the original 1991 350 engine should have radiator clearance but installation will require the water pump pulley to be modified due to differenet bolt circles (water pump has both).

Waiting on my custom drag link and modified pitman arm and spindle bracket to assemble the steering and evaluate the strength of the relocation bracket for the steering gear. The custom drag link uses 1 ton GM rod ends with the pitman arm and spindle bracket modified for tapered rod end connections.

Plan to tackle brake lines and fuel lines in the near future.

I needed to replace the clutch slave cylinder as the piston was stuck in the bore, upon further inspection the bore was corroded pretty badly.

I installed the relocated steering gear/column, pitman arm, new drag link, etc. and modified the inner fender to clear the relocated steering gear. While I have the inner fender roughly in place I verified that my clutch hydraulic line cleared the modification I made to the inner fender for clearance.

Expecting some of the brake lines and materials for fuel lines via FedEx today. The line for the front brakes coming from the proprtioning valve is 5/16" (1/2" thread) to match the prop valve but the tees that I have are for 1/4" line (7/16" thread) so I need to adapt at some point. The lines to the front disk brakes are 3/16" (3/8" thread fitting) so they also need adaption. Perhaps there is a better way to get everything to match up?

I have the brake lines all run but having problems with the banjo bolt copper washers on the front calipers. Apparently the washer ID is large enough that the washer can move out of position relative to the hose end fitting creating a leak path. I annealed the washers and tried to ensure they were centered as I tightened the banjo bolt but the driver's side still has a leak.

I changed the fluid in the 14-bolt rear axle and drained the fluid from the NV3500 transmission, just need to install the new fluid.

I have been sidelined by a case of influenza since Thanksgiving so things have been at a standstill. Hopefully in the near future my health will improve and I will be able to get back at it.

I would run down to your FLAPS and get the correct size copper washers. They'll have an assortment of them to chose from. Don't bet your life on a "that should work" solution on brakes.

Get well soon.

Are the banjo bolt washers part of the conversion "kit" that you received???

Could be they were not the proper size, or just poor quality offshore items.

Maybe worth taking a banjo bolt to the local FLAPS (with knowledge of what caliper you are using) and get them to help select a proper fitting washer???

Definitely one place you do not want a leak at - yikes!

Sorry to hear about having the BUG (ugh). Hope you can get recovered soon!

The banjo bolts and washers were part of the conversion kit and I agree they seem to be the incorrect size. The hose ends are relatively narrow between the inside and outside and the washer IDs are larger than the banjo bolt alllowing them to shift. I think if I can hold the washer concentric with the hose end while tightening the banjo bolt they will work but my next stop is the local FLAPS to get new washers.

Working on filling the radio relate holes in the dash (knob holes had been butchered) and I don't plan to install a radio.

Also started working on the driver's side door. The rusted out bottom of the door was expected but I discovered more issues with the door latch and window regulator that I had expected. Appears that the window crank handle shaft is damaged and the door outside handle shaft that engages the latch is also broken. The good news is the glass is good and the window regulator winds the window up/down using a vice grips as a handle.

I am making significant progress on the passenger side door (driver's side put off for now).

I also did make some progress on the passenger bed side with some rust patch panels in place and rear stake pocket removed (pending replacement).

I seem to be going in multiple directions at the same time and while making progress it is more like a shot gun blast than a rifle shot. I ordered a drive shaft and all of the parts related to the bed (probably premature). I'm also exploring how to deal with instruments (GPS speedometer, voltmeter, etc.) while not really being anywhere near ready for them.

Man those bed sides look familiar. I had rust-outs in the same places.

A tip on your next patch: Use radiused instead of sharp corners. It will be easier to planish out the shrinkage at the corners which should be less because of the radius.

Have you reviewed MPandC's sticky thread on welding sheet metal up at the top of the Paint and Body Shop Forum? A good read and good advice.

Kevin, I reviewed MPandC's sticky but that was a while ago and probably should look at it again.

I looked over your bed side pictures and there are definitely some similarities. In my case the angles were basically rusted away and tended to take the bed side with them (at least in the front and back). My fender mounting areas were not as bad as yours.

The driver's side door is going to be basically a full width inner and outer patch panel so making sure that I know where the bottom needs to be before I cut off both areas will be critical. My current plan is to make a carbboard template that I can bolt in place on the inner panel (because its flatter) to idenitfy the bottom edge location but I am open to suggestions.

Continuing to work on doors and bed sides but got my order from Mar-K for all my bed related parts (cross sills, bed side angle brackets, rear stake pockets, wood, strips, etc. so I needed to make sure everything was as expected.

Did a preliminary layout of the cross sills on the frame and then laid the bed wood out and all looked good.

I welded the rear stake pockets to both bed sides and did a preliminary installation of the bed side angle brackets using the fender mounting holes that intersect. Angle strips are very tight on top of the edge boards, especially toward the front so I need to try and raise them slightly when drilling holes for the strips to be bolted to the bed sides (planning to bolt rather than weld to provide a little flexability if needed).

I proceeded to mark and drill all the holes in the edge boards for the angle strip bolts then marked and drilled holes to mount the angle strips to the bed sides. There are going to be a few bolts showing between the front stake pockets but most of the bolts will be either under the fender or in the stake pockets. The rear strip to side bolt will need a weld nut inside the stake pocket as there is no reall way to access a loose nut on the inside.

I marked the passenger bed side for the fuel tank filler pass through and the driver's bed side for the fuel tank vent line.

Now I need to take it all apart and continue work required on the bed sides.

Continuing to work on multiple sub-projects.

I have bed sides have been set aside after the angle strip bolts have all been located and weld nuts for the rear most bolts being installed. Holes for the fuel filler tube and tank vent tube have been cut into the respective sides.

Started working on the passenger side inner front fender, replacing a weld nut and welding up and redrilling holes where the front edge inner and outer fender meet that were broken out. Primed and painted the inner side (toward engine) but need to strip undercoating or ?? from the wheel side before I can paint.

Fabricated a fan shroud that mounts with the radiator mounting bolts and supports the electric fan. Still needs some work but I did an intial fit check to confirm that the electric fan clears the engine pulleys. The radiator support may move up for fender alignment and will be stabilized side to side when the inner fenders are attached but clearance looks good.

I decided that I should finish the wood (pine) for my bed even though it will be a while before I am ready to assemble the bed. I am using an original treatment of penetrating epoxy from Smith & Company followed by a spar varnish. It is taking a while as there are a number of coats to be applied ot both sides of the wood.

Took advantage of the recent warm weather (it is suppose to snow tomorrow) to make a junk yard run. Picked up a gas pedal and cable, a fuel filler, a horn, and shifter boot all of which will require some adaptation but at least give me something to start with. Still a little hard to visualize how I will fashion the fuel filler into the rear fender but hopefully it will become clearer when I can mount the bed side and fender to get a better idea of the spacial relationship between the fender and the filler hose pathway.

I'm not familiar with you year, but do the wood planks require an special edge that goes under the metal strip that connects the edge of the boards? I had to create that edge so the metal strip sat properly on my 1940 Chevy PU.

I used a penetration epoxy covered with a UV protector and worked fine. Just pay attention to the ends... It soaks up a lot if it's dry..

I also found that assembling the bed before I finished the planks saved a lot of Hassel when they didn't fit as I thought they would and I had to modify them, screwing up my finish and the seal.

Mike

Paul’s gmc parts site has all the lumber dimension.

Yes the board have a feature on the edge that is clamped by the strip that provides for the edge of the strip to engage and provide clearance for the strip material between that feature and the edge as shown in Kevinski's pictures.

Finished the top side of the bed boards and put them back into storage as it will be a while before I am ready to assemble the bed.

I think I will prime and paint the bed cross sills to get them protected while being stored waiting for the bed assembly process.

Back to working on the driver's side inner front fender with the hopes of getting the front assembly of the inner front fenders and radiator support completed knowing that I will need to adjust the radiator support mounting when it comes time to install the front fenders.

Still seems like I am heading in six directions at once but it all needs to be done sooner or later so as long as I can manage my expectations it should be fine.

"Short" list of pending "to-do" items includes inner front fender installation, painting interior of the cab (including inside of doors), exhaust system, painting a top coat over Por-15 on rear axle, rebuilding instrument cluster, refurbishing and installing heater, etc. etc.

I fully understand that feeling, it seems like I never complete any one project before starting another. I'm working on so many different things on my truck all at once.

I got the driver's side inner front fender cleaned up, painted, and installed. Everything will need to be touched up but it felt good to have things going together.

My thought process being that with the inner front fenders, radiator support, etc. installed I should be able to start to layout the electrical system, plumb the cooling system, etc. However, before I can start those processes I need to get the heater refurbished and installed and the interior of the cab painted.

I started painting the bed cross sills to help preservee them until I get to the bed assembly stage (a ways down the road).

Heater core is in poor condition so a recore is in process (pricy to be sure).

Primed and painted the bed cross sills with Rustoleum except the exposed portion of the rear that was primed only.

Started stripping the outside of the driver's side door to prime before I paint the finished color on the inside.

Project is on hold for the moment as we purchased a 1997 Chevy 1500 for my grandson (just turned 16) that needs the engine rebuilt/replaced. I may take this opportunity to get the truck to the exhaust shop for the exhaust system to be formed/installed.

Man, this truck is looking good! Keep it up. I took my heater core an old ma and pop shop locally, and it only cost me $150 IIRC. It wasn’t over $200. It wasn’t a recore job either. They built me one new using the old as a pattern.

I don't have the final cost yet for my heater core but the initial estimate was around $400 just because it is so large.A lot more than required for a simple truck cab.

The shop is a small mom and pop type reported to provide reasonable pricing but these days just finding a place to do this type of work is challenging.

Really impressed. Did you cut out around the rusted parts only, or did your cut out whole sections? I am not sure what to do. I have rust but some holes only o the passenger side. I was thinking of just cutting the rusted parts and leaving the driver’s side untouched. Thanks Eric

Thanks, compared to some on this site my amature status is pretty clear but I am pretty happy with how the project is going so far. Although the whole project has been on hold for a few months while I work on a different project truck (1997 Chevy 1500) for my grandson.

Generally I cut out large sections that included the rusted areas. In retrospec I probably should have gone further in some areas. I bought patch panels such as floor pan pieces that went back almost to the seat area but cut them off to match the cut out floor area, similar process with the inner and outer cowl panels. The inner to outer cowl panels were the short versions. I was lucky in that my rocker panels from the door hinge post back and my door hinge posts were in good condition. My seat riser had been removed by a previous owner but I was planning on updated seats anyway so that wasn't a big problem. I have done selected area cut outs and patch installations on the fenders, box sides, and replaced the rear stake pockets to resolve rusted out rear box cross member and hinge mounting areas.

The body work support on this forum is great. I am sure if you post pictures of what you have you will get a lot of advice (sometimes conflicting) about how best to proceed.

Not totally done with the alternate project (97 C1500) but starting to get back to this project.

Realized that I was getting ahead of myself (again) workingon finishing the prep-paint on the door when I plan to install the Altman door latch kit. Took advantage of one of the vendors Labor Day sale to get the latches on order.

Planning to get the exhaust system in place in the near future (I suspect the exhaust shop is thinking I may never show up) but need to make some trailer repairs and install some of the bed parts (so he knows what to avoid) before I can get it hauled there - always something.

I have made a little progress and have a partial install of the bed so the exhaust shop knows what needs clearance. I have an appointment to get the exhaust installed later this month.

I started the install of the Altman door latches on the driver's door. I still need to work on cleaning up the cuts and confirm the release lever to the inside handle clears the opening but at least it is a little progress. Wanted to get the cuts all made and cleaned up prior to continuing the painting efforts on the doors.

Got the exhaust system installed. No pictures up near the engine but the exhaust pipes were pretty tight getting turned and over the original-relocated frame cross brace. The rear axle area is also a bit tight given the relocated fuel tank. I will need to relocate my fuel pump to get more clearance but it isn't connected to the engine yet and the flexible line from the tank is easy to replace with a longer section.

Now I need to remove and restore the bed parts for near term. At least I know how they fit together at this point. I'll probably leave the rear bumper on for now just so I am not constantly running into the tail pipes.

Got the fuel pump relocated, actually a lot happier with the mounting now as I eliminated the bracket that came with the pump and replaced the original mounting studs with some I had in inventory. Replaced the fuel line from the tank to the filter and tucked the filter inside the frame bracket. Routed the fuel line away from the exhaust.

Back to working on the doors, stripping off old paint on the outside so they can be primed and any repairs made before I paint the interior surfaces with color.

Trying to determine what temperature I need for the Eastman rattle can epoxy color paint to cure. The infromation I can find only refers to cure time at 68 degrees but doesn't say anything about temperature range (other than cure time will vary). Turned pretty chiily here so shop is set to hold at 50 degrees for now. I can warm it up but don't want to get carried away. Hoping to get the interior of the cab, including the inside of the doors done before winter really sets in.

If I can get the interior painted I can do a lot of work on things like installing the heater, wiring, cables, etc. that involve the dash area.

Painted the inside of the doors and the interior of the cab (dash and up except where headliner will cover) with an Eastwood rattle can epoxy paint. Temperature was set at 60 degrees and the paint appears to have cured okay. I stil need to do some touch up but I have an unused can of paint I am holding for future use.

Need to determine where/how I am going to store the doors for now but planning to move on to heater restoration and installation and electrical (dash and engine compartment) over the winter months. I will need to decide which wiring harness to buy, where to place the fuse block, and how best to run all the electrical as none of it will be stock configuration. I can also move on to the guage cluster and make decisions about how best to incorporate a GPS speedometer, voltmeter, and if I am going to electric or mechnical oil pressure and engine coolant guages.

I should be able to work on the under/back side of the fenders and other misc parts that will be simple Rustoleum painted during the winter as well.

Hoping to be able to paint the exterior color when the weather warms up next spring although I have a lot of work to do before I get that far.

Assembled my heater (truck never had one previously) and installed along with related defrost ducts. Need to do some touch up on the paint but I finally got the inner cowl mounting bolts in place. Next step is to acually connect the heater hoses (parts on their way) as well as the radiator hoses and other items installed into the cooling system. Also need to decide what to do about the gap around the blower motor where it comes through the firewall.

Also installed the choke cable to see how it fits (now located in the throttle location to clear the electric wiper motor), as well as the heater blower switch and wiper control switch. I have a hole in place in the backet for the defrost cable to mount but do not have a cable yet.

Started the installation of the wiring. Located the fuse panel on the driver's side inner cowl panel and started running wires. The kit I purchased from Speedway has more circuits than I need and came with its own headlight switch and high beam switch. Still deciding on what direction to take on instruments but leaning toward a set made by Dolphin that fits the original dash openings, has a GPS speedometer and all electric fuel, volt, oil pressure, and coolant temperature gauges.

I determined that the ignition switch I have does not have a start position (typical of stomp starter vintage) so I either need to change switches or add a push button start switch. Need to source a brake light switch to mate up with the pedals that I retrofitted from an S10.

I purchased an instrument package from Dakota Digital that includes an electronic (not GPS) speedometer, tach, and electric versions of the oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges (came with all the sensors). The package includes a control box that I mounted on the inner cowl below the fuse panel on the drriver's side inner cowl. Working on getting all of the connections to the control box so that I can determine how best to package/route the wiring under the dash. As I am a long way from having the front and rear lights in place those wires are hanging in space for now.

Once I get the under dash wiring paths sorted out and install the gauges I will provide an update with pictures, for now it is not a pretty picture.

I did remove several circuits from the fuse panel that I will not be using to help clean things up but I need to do some more of that.

Initial installation of the wiring harness and Dakota Digital instruments (including control box) is complete. I am sure there will be some wiring adjustments made later but time to move on to another aspect of the project (so many to choose from).

Working on designing my fuel tank filler. The tank is relocated behind the rear axle with the filler existing the tank toward the passenger side, over the frame and below the bed. The plan is to pass through the bed side into the rear fender/wheel area and then turn toward the rear with the filler located somewhere on the rear surface of the fender.

I have a fuel filler part from a more recent Chevy truck that I may mount directly to the fender (it was originally connected with a plastic shape part behind a filler door) with the cap exposed. Not really the most appealing astetics but functional.

I am also considering a flush mount type fuel filler that would improve the astetics but not sure about this approach.

Anyone else have a passenger side rear fender fuel filler that would be willing to share pictures would be appreciated.

While contemplating the fuel filler I decided to install my updated tie rod ends received several months ago. Unfortunately my spindles have tapered stud connections for the tie rod ends and the replacmeents that I bought are for straight bore connections. I posted a thread in the Driveline section hoping for member insight regarding a path forward.

It maybe hard to tell from the pics, but here is my setup.
I had to go a with a bigger ID vent tube and use a metal pipe(prevent pinching there at bend) where it was exposed
to the inside fender and then put a right angle fitting at the top of the
filler. tapped and threaded. Vent Tube to that from tank.
Fender mount flush filler.

But its a driver side application. Which I prefer.

I am considering a fuel filler such as you selected - how do you like it? The "key" feature seems good except I can see it being a pain down the road needing to make sure you know where the key is.

The "key" I keep in my center console or it has a key ring hole. Its just 2 offset holes that
you could use a couple Philips to open in an emergency.
I have had positive comments on the look and location on fender.
Only draw back is fuel delivery , although doable. It takes paying attention
so it does not over deliver. I just cannot give it all the gas station pump will send.

Thanks for the information on fuel delivery. I was wondering if that would be a problem.

At the moment I am planning to use a fuel filler I salvaged from a new model Chevy truck. One of its benefits is the fuel delivery goes through an interior tube that allows air excaping the tank to exit through the filler opening around the outside of that inner tube. I am not sure how I am going to position the filler relative to the fender surface. The truck it came from had a plastic piece that positioned the filler more vertically behind a door. I don't plan on a hidden/door arangement but deciding how vertical the filler needs to be will determine where it will be placed on the fender.

With mine, I chose the flattest spot on the fender.
I think on the fender ,the next flat spot going down was going to be too low
in relationship to the filler at tank and tire height. That might have helped with fuel delivery.
The look on the side of the fender to me would look odd. So I choose where I did.
It may be too far of a drop. ..however. Just can`t walk away from it while filling using those
nozzle delivery catches.