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#143357 07/11/2005 3:36 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1
D
Junior Member
Junior Member
D Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1
I purchased the truck and noticed the brake pedal feel is progressivly getting worse. Now the pedal hits the floor. I added much needed fluid but can't find bleed screw. The line from the MC goes to a secondary vacuum booster, where there is a bleed valve, but appears to be a separate fluid system. Chiltons manual was not very helpful.
I'm thinking of installing a new master cylinder, but need to know where the bleeder is.
thanks from Arizona!

I'll send a pic of this old county truck next time.

#143358 07/11/2005 5:58 AM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
There is no bleeder on master. Should or may be two on the Hydrobooster you found. This is not a seperate system, all fluids go thru all the parts. Be VERY careful when trying to loosen the bleeders on the Hydroboost, don't want to snap off. Best to use hex socket, go slow, loosen some, tighten back up, loosen little more, back and forth till comes out easy. Also, the rear wheels will probly have two cylinders in them, may need to bleed both.
I would check for a leaking metal line or wheel cylinder leaking before messing with MC. Setting around is bad on brake systems, specially if in tall grass area.


G.L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750


MM R tractor, Speedex
and Power King tractors
#143359 07/11/2005 6:11 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 117
D
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 117
The bleeder screw is in top of the long cast part on the booster.

#143360 07/13/2005 8:45 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 926
S
Shop Shark
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 926
On my 66 C-60,when I got it,the brakes would pump up to about 3 or 4 inches off the floor with one pump,but never got any better,and I had to pump it up every time I used the brakes. I thought I would have to go through the brake hydraulics on it,but a friend and I decided to bleed them and see what we could get. We bled the right rear brake forst,and the pedal came up to where it should have been,and the brakes work fine now.
Try bleeding the brakes thoroughly before you start replacing parts. Work from the farthest fitting from the master cylinder to the closest.The brake booster will be the last one you bleed. BTW-even though there's no bleeder screw on your master cylinder,if you need to work air out of it,you can bleed it by opening the brake line right at the master cylinder just as you would a bleeder screw. Just be careful not to round the flats on the line nut.


1954 GMC 350
1957 GMC 1/2 ton
1962 Chevy C-30
1952 Chevy 6400 dump bed project truck
'98 Harley FLSTC
'66 Pontiac Catalina
'76 Chevy 1 ton Duallie
'84 Bronco II
'78 Dodge W-200
'81 Toyota 4X4 truck

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