The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Distributor to and points

I’m in need of some educating! I’m not too knowledgeable about the these engines and their mechanics so I need help.

My ‘47 AD 3100 216 began to run poorly. After checking, I found the vacuum advance was not working. Decided to also go the points, plugs, condenser route. Discovered I had to pull the distributor to change the vacuum advance which I was hesitant to do myself. So I ordered the parts from J.C. and found a a mechanic who has worked on these engines/trucks. To my amazement the vacuum advance AND the points I ordered were the wrong ones. The base of the advance had to be angled not straight. Luckily I found one at the Filling Station–- for a passenger car.... The points were found at a local NAPA.....for a passenger car. The points I bought were too high to fit into the distributor.. Mechanic installed everything and it runs great. Plus he showed me how or mark the rotor, distributor...and pull the unit and replace it. Found that later described in the threads here.

My engine, if I’ve done my homework correctly, seems to be a hybrid. NO serial number...so it’s a replacement. The head appears to be a ‘49 and the block a ‘52–solid lifters. Could that be possible? I had no idea I apparently may have a “passenger” engine....or a “passenger” distributor???? Nor did I realize the points were different size. Is it possible the engine is a “hybrid” that is a combination of components of different years engines? Were there differences in the distributors? Was there that much compatibility that those parts were interchangeable?

Has anyone run across a problem like this? Can anyone explain this or have any clarification for me? Like I said, I need some education!....and help....lol

I can’t educate you on a whole lot about these engines, but I can add some insights. I have a 1950 216 and am using a 1953 235 distributor. A PO had it installed sometime in the past. I found out when I decided to do the points, plugs, wires , and cap. I’m guessing that the original distributor failed. The 235 distributor works fine. It also has the taller cap and rotor. Like you, I had to return some parts until I figured it out. The engine runs about as well as one can expect from a 216 that doesn’t appear to have any other work done to it.

Be careful about using just any 235 distributor in a 216 engine. The 1953 one you are using should be fine. The later 235 distributor used a cast iron drive gear that matched the camshaft material. The 216, and I believe 1953 235's, used forged iron drive gears. There are likely some exceptions for 1953. The forged drive gears from the 216 can be easily swapped onto a later 235 distributor and that can then be used in a 216 engine.

Please be careful buying/relying on condensers today. For many years condensers were made in the USA. They were inexpensive and they were meant to be changed every time you did a tune-up and changed your points. Today ALL condensers are made in China and have been made in China for at least the past 10 years. The failure rate is shockingly high and the parts are very crudely made. Please let me repeat...I have not be able to find a single manufacturer of automobile condensers still in business in the USA and I believe I am the only person making such a product in America. I get messages all the time about this. Just this week a gentleman told me his NGK condenser failed within 1000 miles. You can see the work I've done on an alternative condenser in the Electrical Bay section...this was and continues to be a Stovebolt group project, in fact with any proceeds that may exceed the breakeven point going to fund other Stovebolt projects and not into my pocket. I'm away until the middle of December, but will be happy to help once I return.

There will be a part number stamped on the distributor breaker plate near the points that can be cross-referenced to a fairly specific range of installation as original equipment. Just about any Chevy 6 cylinder distributor can be installed in any engine for a span of 15 -20 years of production, and vacuum lines can be altered to fit, so going by the physical characteristics of a particular distributor will tell you nothing about the origin of the engine. Casting numbers, and the serial number stamped onto the machined pad near the distributor are much more reliable ways of tracing an engine's original application.
Jerry

GM's 216 Part progression:

1950 Parts List
1941-48, All, 1110090 (216)
1949-50, 1112362 (216)

1957 Parts List
1940-49, All, and 1950-53 (216) use 1112362

1962 Parts List
1940-49, All, and 1950-53 (216) use 1112362

1970 Parts List
1940-62 Pass. (6 cyl.) use 1112403

GM would have an end-of-life stocking policy so the recently made parts become the replacements.
It doesn't mean the newer parts work as well as the original. In 1970, GM is listing a 235
distributor for a 216 engine. The 216 and 235 distributors have different vacuum advance curves.
This is where the owner needs to do the research into what they have.

A 1954 parts supplement says:
"A cast iron alloy camshaft will replace the forged camshaft in mid 1954 season, a cast iron distributor
drive gear also will be introduced at the same time."

The question comes up about using a 216 distributor with steel drive gear in a 1954 and later 235 engine
with a cast iron camshaft. Is it safe? The answer is that you can purchase cast iron drive gears to replace
the steel ones.

Maybe you want to consider an HEI: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/~/search/keyword=hei
One of the best & easy modifications I ever made.
don

Don, how well does it work on a 6 volt system?

It doesn't!
Jerry

Jerry is right.
You might consider a Pertronix conversion. They come in 6V and 12V. I used one on my 348 (in a 1957 Chevy truck). I did need a different coil for my install (high performance), I don't know if that is required for every install. It has been great for me over the last 5 years. However, a Pertronix conversion seems to have some detractors. so I would research that a bit. I have had two different installs and no problems. At the same time,I have had little issues with points either(no failures, just periodic adjustments and trying to find the correct ones locally).
don

The basic unit for the Langdon's small diameter HEI is a 2.8 Liter Chevy V6 distributor with a modified housing and shaft, and a drive gear that's compatible with the stovebolt six camshaft. There were only a few years of production of that distributor with vacuum advance. I made one from an offshore clone of that distributor, and installed GM original equipment electronic parts. I doubt if I'll bother doing another one, as it's a lot of work.

Pertronix comes in two types-- - - -the ones that have had a catastrophic failure, and the ones that are going to. Leaving the ignition switch on accidentally without the engine running will fry one in a matter of minutes, just like a set of points.
Jerry

I corrected a part number error in my earlier posting.

In the pictures you can see the part number on the breaker plate.

Thanks for the insights into my questions.

I did find the model # of my distributor.......1112403. Now to research its history. That should pinpoint its age pretty much along with casting numbers. I’ll be able to get a better idea about my 216.

Jon- I will contact you for a bit more detail. I’ve already read some of your postings here about your condenser.