Starting to get a bed on the COE. Got some 2” sugar maple that is very green so probably let it dry over the winter and then add some rack sides. Slowly getting there…
Starting to get a bed on the COE. Got some 2” sugar maple that is very green so probably let it dry over the winter and then add some rack sides. Slowly getting there…
Looking good! Are you planning to put the dual rear wheels back on it?
pulling the heads off my 58 viking again today (got some with stuck valves, at least I hope that is all it is, and nothing bent!) Hopefully, can get it back together tomorrow or Monday and then get back home from Montana before the passes get too much snow! (We are pulling our 35' Vintage trailer)!
Starting to get a bed on the COE. Got some 2” sugar maple that is very green so probably let it dry over the winter and then add some rack sides. Slowly getting there…
Made me grease my 2 u-joints,and took my fuel gauge sender out to look inside the tank,was pretty cleanin there. This51 6400 pickup burns only propane, so I haul lawnmower gas in the cab tank and siphon it out when we mow. 98 inch wheelbase with 8.25 rubber on original 3 piece wheels is the best pick-up Iv'e had. built My own heavy duty 4-link using 7/8 heim joints,run it most days .
Not entirely today, but lately... I recently posted about putting new shock absorbers on my rig. Also, have a pretty reliable source of fuel as well that I posted. What I haven't talked about though is over the course of keeping the truck in good tune, I hooked it up to a vacuum gauge and had a terribly bouncing needle indicating a valve train problem. I did a compression check and found a dead cylinder (#5) so I assumed valves too tight. Not having a baseline to compare to its hard to tell how good or bad the truck is running. If it sounds good, starts well and runs smooth is about all I can go on. Adjusted the valves and got compression back on #5. Generally better except for a miss at idle. A little more tune of the idle mixture and timing led to a broken idle mixture screw when loosening the vacuum line right next to it. I found then that after extended driving it wouldn't idle well at all. Hard to correct that though with no mixture screw; I did find moisture in the brake booster line at the air cleaner lid maybe brake fluid was getting sucked through the system and pulled into the carburetor (surely that won't help an idle). I also have a leaking wheel cylinder in the rear; pulled the drum and it was bad. Real bad. Brake fluid and dust mud everywhere. Ignored that for too long. Lots of pressure washing and cleaner. Disassemble, clean and reassembled the wheel cylinders, bleed brakes. Firm pedal never came back... Dipping brake fluid at the master cylinder, mess with the boot at the peal shaft and lots of fluid in there. Rebuild the master cylinder. Rummaging around under the truck the bed bolts are loose. Three sticks of 5/8" all-thread and now thats tight. Much quieter too without that thing bouncing around back there. Lastly, scored a factory brake booster to rebuild and replace the one under the truck, that doesn't look factory. Meanwhile the truck is running pretty good-set a new top speed in it of 60 mph.
asilverblazer Did you know you can suck brake fluid out of you master with a vacuum hose from your manifold... done that,then looked around and saw a cloud of dense white smoke the size of my house !! surprise !! Didn't hurt anything,will do it again !!
Master Cylinder changed out, soft brake lines changed out...bled brakes...so it stops re-connected the tail-light wiring, so people even know when cleaned out interior of all previous rodent remains, and pressure washed it all. Plug change and it runs, actually pretty well. Took around the block for the first time on the road since 1969 (not going further until tires) Insurance Custom Plates Ordered
I will say 90 percent of the work was done by the wife...of course, it is her truck.
Now on to electrical...That one will mostly be me I am sure.
Over the last week I got my old rotten bed unbolted from the frame. My bud next door at the fairgrounds ran over here with the kabota and lifted it off for me. I also went thru the eight wheels that I got with it. put 45lbs in the ones that look best. That will let me get her moved up to my building 7 blocks from here where I can work on it this winter. I was pleasantly surprised at the condition of all four brake drums. They are in great shape and the shoes have a good bit of material on them. I ordered brake cylinder kits and front seals.
NH46COE That sugar maple sounds good but have learned that it blackens easily if your saw or router is not razor sharp,makes for a lot of hard sanding !!
Oilyryder Now your pictures don't add-up---but you do know the rule on widow maker wheels ?? You said put in 45 lbs.of air,if that was in 2 piece wheels they can be deadly. Read stovebolt warnings on those wheels !!! What I meant was your picture of 46 on back not 51.Anyway be careful !!
Oilyrider1951 Oh I use those widow makers too,just have to respect them I use a clip-on air chuck then go back to the compressor and turn on. This would be bolted on the truck,takes a little adjusting to get em just right.
MavinWy Wow she must be a pretty good mechanic,now mine is skillful on upholestry can whip-up a set of seatcovers in not long. The beauty of AD truck seats is you can take em on and off adjust padding and fit.
well, I managed to put the wrong picks on here with the wheel post. Yes fixite I observed all the proprieties filling the tires. including 50' air hose with clipon chuck and a ford van between me and them. And a log chain to top it off. The story with the first pick is that is a slide hammer (homemade) I had built years ago for a stubborn job of retubing a couple boilers. After fighting with with two of the wheels, I remembered I had this thing stored away in the shop.It popped them rusty wheels right off !
Major score for the last couple days. Found a full set of 19.5 tires on rims with the correct lug pattern for a decent price.
I see a few folks talking about the widowmaker rims.... The ones we took off are split ring (not split rim) 20" rims. If anyone has an interest in them drop an IM Will give them away since they are safer than the widowmakers (won't ship, just pick 'em up). Was going to use them until I stumbled across the 19.5s with good tires. Would rather have them go to someone here as safer than the true split rims.
What a coincidence.... Actually, just finished up installing two new tires on a couple of those two-piece wheels (lock ring type - not RH-5) yesterday.
When inflating that type of wheel, I use a clip-on chuck, and a remote valve & gauge. I install the wheel to be inflated on the truck, with the ring facing inward - toward the inner wheel. Inflate in 10 psi increments, with a release to zero in between - just to make sure the tube settles in. Check for proper ring seating using an inspection mirror.
If the ring were to come off, it is trapped between the two wheels, but I still stand back 25 or 30 feet just in case. (Note: The tire being inflated in the attached pic is the one on the truck, NOT the one laying on the floor.)
Crowbar and Fixite, I got those same wheels here. Is there any thing special I need to know about removing the solid rings from them or should I say any wrong way to do it? Dont want to damage the wheels Or myself?
Thanks for the heads up. It was cut the day before it was milled and they did a really nice job so it is amazingly straight for rough cut. I’ve screwed it down to the cross members and just going to let it dry out over the winter & probably seal it in the spring. Then add some racks to it and see how it looks !
As long as the tire is deflated, it is pretty difficult to hurt oneself working on these wheels.
Once the air is out, lay the wheel flat on the ground and break the bead loose. I do this by stepping on it at various places around the rim. It usually will break free if the wheel is not too rusty. Sometimes, I have to pour tire lube or dishwashing soap around the perimeter of the rim, and let it soak in along the bead. If you keep working the tire, it will eventually unseat. Sometimes, a little prying with a tire iron is also needed.
Professional tire and wheel shops use a big hammer with almost a chisel end on it, to break the bead. I don't have one, and would probably not be confident enough in my aim even if I did. My rims and lock rings are full of dents & dings - presumably from someone who had used this method sometime in the past, but had definitely not mastered it.
Once the beads are broken loose, the lock ring is removed. There is a notch in the ring to engage either a tire iron, or a large screw driver. As you pry on the lock ring to push it away from the rim, the opposite side of the ring needs to go down and into the slot cut around the circumference of the rim. I use a good sized (approx 2 lb.) dead blow hammer for this, hitting the ring down and into the rim slot, as I simultaneously pry on the opposite side with a tire iron. The ring should tilt enough to get another screw driver between the lip of the lock ring and the rim. You can then work your way around the ring continuing to whack on it with the dead blow hammer. It will usually pop off when you get a quarter to a third of the way around. (Note: While the lock ring is fairly robust, too much pressure can bend it, so don't go crazy trying to pry it off.)
You will see that the lock ring has a retaining lip, that holds it on the rim. If you look closely at the first pic in the post above, you will notice that there are two cutouts in this lip, which assist in sliding the lock ring over the rim.
Once the ring is off, with the tire still lying flat on the ground, put a few of 4x4 pieces of wood under the tire, basically suspending the rim. Then, push or stand on the rim to work it out of the tire. The tire lube, or dish soap works well here too, in order to help get the tire to slide over the rim. The tire, tube, and flap all come off as an assembly.
All of my rims have been rusty inside, so their first stop is at the sandblaster whenever I pull a tire off for the first time. I also try to do a little cleanup on the more pitted areas with sandpaper. This is also a good time to inspect for cracks, or serious rust. Inspect the area where the rim connects to the center hub very closely. Fortunately, although some of my wheels and rings have shown some pitting, they are still serviceable. Note, it is also good practice to keep the lock ring with the wheel it came off of. Do not mix them. If all is well, prime and paint as desired.
After the paint cures, it's time for reassembly. First, the tube is slightly aired up, just until it starts to look round. It is coated with tire lube, and pushed into the tire. Next, the flap is lubed, and installed. I like to slide my hand into the tire/flap interface, all around both beads, to make sure the flap is centered, and sitting flat. You don't want any edges rolled up in between the tire and tube.
I put a little more air into the tube, just a shot or two, to ensure that it's captured in the tire, and won't shift around. Lay the rim on the ground with the lock ring side up. Tilt the rim up from the side opposite the valve stem slot. Then tilt the tire onto the rim starting with the valve stem side, tilting and pushing the valve stem thru the slot in the rim. If the tire bead is lubed, the rest of the tire should easily slide onto the rim.
To install the lock ring, push it onto the rim at the cutout areas. Using the dead blow hammer, start on the side opposite the notch, and try to tilt and tap the ring into the slot in the rim. It helps to stand on the rim, with your feet over the lock ring to keep it from popping off. Once the lock ring starts to engage the rim, you can usually work it back on by whacking it with the dead blow hammer. Sometimes, it needs a little help. In this case, I stick a piece of 2x2 into one of the hand holes and push down on the lock ring while hitting it with the dead blow hammer until it pops back on. I know "real" tire shops often use a big steel hammer for this, but I prefer the dead blow as it is less likely to knock off the fresh paint.
Lastly, follow the inflation procedure as described above. It is HIGHLY recommended to use a safety cage for this - especially if this is your first time, and may be unsure of proper lock ring seating. If not, the above procedure is pretty safe. I know others have used nylon straps, logging chains, or other heavy duty retention methods to contain the ring in the event it comes off during inflation.
Best Regards.....
Last edited by CrowbarBob; 12/03/20218:14 AM. Reason: Typo
Thanks Crowbar,that info is a great explanation of what I am needing to do here.I really appreciate all the help. Having never done any work on the big trucks I really enjoy all the detailed info. I much rather ask lots of questions than screw up things.
I have been slowly working on wheels and tires for my 5700. I removed three old tires by hand, had the wheels sandblasted, then I epoxy primed and painted them. I was still looking for 4 more tires for the drives and I found a shop that had just brought some in from a school fleet. So I bought 4 Firestone virgin 10R-22.5 steers that are in nice shape, had him mount and balance 2 of my Michelin 235/85/22.5 for my steers. He said he could have my other 4 wheels blasted and powder coated for $38 each so that was a no-brainer. Now waiting on three to come back BUT I was able to test drive now with 4 good tires, with the 10R-22.5's on the rear I gained 5 mph at governed speed, I cleaned and adjusted the governor and at 4000 RPM no load it runs at 3700-3800 RPM on the road at 51-52 mph. I only have $560 into 8 real nice tires, $545 into blasting, primer, paint, powder coat and a little for labor for mounting 7 wheels. I'm happy as a clam
Last edited by 78buckshot; 12/24/202110:11 PM.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Crowbar Bob You mentioned the safety cage,a tire shop guy hired a new young guy who seemed to understand split rims. He had him working on some and told him to use the cage,owner went to the bank. When he returned the new helper was in the cage reaching out to pump up one of the split rims !! I guess that will work--right ??
asilverblazer You better give that booster a chance,both of them,thay like a dose {2 oz.) of hydraulic jack oil to lube a big leather cup in there. The big truck service book tells how to do this,my two are 71 yrs. old work good !! Always big fun to climb on the brakes and know you can stop !! they worry about disc brakes all the time, my 51 6400 made into a 98 inch wheelbase pickup has plenty of brakes. It is pretty happy at 50 MPH on good roads has 8.25x 20 with 4 and 2 speed axle.
asilverblazer You better give that booster a chance,both of them,thay like a dose {2 oz.) of hydraulic jack oil to lube a big leather cup in there. The big truck service book tells how to do this,my two are 71 yrs. old work good !! Always big fun to climb on the brakes and know you can stop !! they worry about disc brakes all the time, my 51 6400 made into a 98 inch wheelbase pickup has plenty of brakes. It is pretty happy at 50 MPH on good roads has 8.25x 20 with 4 and 2 speed axle.
The midland is working pretty well. The power piston moves free on the bench, might be a problem in the control circuit - the cost for proper rebuild kit, the acceptable function of the midland has killed my interest in messing with it more. I don’t expect that even if it was in proper working order any improvement to braking power.
The midland is working pretty well. The power piston moves free on the bench, might be a problem in the control circuit - the cost for proper rebuild kit, the acceptable function of the midland has killed my interest in messing with it more. I don’t expect that even if it was in proper working order any improvement to braking power.
Talk about speaking to soon... Thursday the main rubber diaphragm of the Midlands power piston developed a tear. Swapped the Bendix back on. I have discovered that first time I installed it I had the vacuum source air intake reversed, so it wasn't even working at all. Second when they are installed correct, the brakes are full on. Seems I've got a problem in the control valve admitting atmosphere to the back of the unit and/or not administering vacuum to the rear. Now to decide which one of these boosters to concentrate on getting fixed.
PS: I might have patched the ruptured diaphragm with a bicycle inner tube patch - stay tuned if I decide to put it back in.
I adjusted the striker plate on my drivers door, wow, now I can close and latch it!, also removed the Hydrovac so I can try to find a match fit, luckily it had the tag with the Bendix number.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
NH46 COE Have been out,got home 51 6400 wouldn,t crank,pulled it ,fired right-up. So suspect home rebuilt starter I put on a month ago doesn,t like this cold !! Was a new switch looked fine but wont make the circuit now,have to make me go out in the cold and look at that !!
asilverblazer My boosters make a huge difference,if you climb on the brakes it will squall the front tires and you have pretty good control of the truck. Now I told you about the bendix vaccuum cylinder oil ?? If not get hydraulic jack oil,same thing-Carters told me,that leather cup in the booster gets dry and needs 2 ozs. of that a 2x a year that is on a bendix booster 1951. Midland may be different.
Yeah, I got em oiled. The Bendix I'll have to open back up and fiddle with the control valve to see why its activating the brakes with out hydraulic pressure on the control valve piston.
The Midland is just leaky with brake fluid getting places it shouldn't and the 2" tear in the diaphragm.
Cleaned up the floor panel that covers the transmission and painted with POR 15, fabbbed in a new shifter boot and parking brake lever boot, pretty fancy now, I don't have to have rags shoved in the holes.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Winter has arrived, since I took this picture I have hung tarps around the shed so it’s protected now. A few things I can work on inside over the winter but the long wait for spring has begun … nice to see all the posts from others.
today I bought a new battery, need to get the clamp to hold it in. Inflated the front tires also, they were soft when I brought it home. Next step is to dig into the hydrovac brake system. Probably going to try to find a shop manual for this thing, it makes working on anything so much easier to have either the manual or even just an exploded diagram.
