The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Walmart synthetic oil!

Went to Walmart to get oil today, they only carry synthetic which I really don’t need, another price gouging opportunity!

Ed

There are about a dozen reasons that synthetic is better. It is more expensive. But lasts longer between changes so it's not more expensive. Now that oil production has been greatly halted and America may have to buy it again, non synthetic/conventional oil for automotive may "dry up". So there won't be much or any. That would increase it's price to the max. So better get used to man made oil until there is a change back to American production.

Check the Walmart house brand synthetic. I can't speak for everywhere but here it's as cheap as the brand name dino oil. 5W-20 is $14.65 a gallon and 0W-20 is $16.48 a gallon.

If your engine is built right, synthetic oil will work just fine. Loose bearings and old seals don't care for it to much.

The idea that a synthetic "lubricant" the consistency of water can be used to effectively lubricate, and more importantly, cushion the patrts of an engine with the clearances specified for stovebolts, is utterly ludicrous. The upper viscosity of a multi-weight oil is irrelevent, as the actual thickness of the oil film remains at the lower number, regardless of temperature or load. That can be tested by anyone open-minded enough to drill a test hole in a measuring cup and use a stopwatch to check how long a measured volume of various SAE number oils take to drain out. Of course, no one will do that, as it just might blow holes in their preconceived ideas and make them admit they're wrong.
Jerry

A person can make their own choice by reading up on it. Noting ASTM tests and information available on the internet....or they can play jr. scientist and watch oil drain from a hole in a cup. Up to the open minded individual.

"conventional 5W-30 motor oil is a petroleum-based oil that is thick at low temperatures and thin at high temperatures. To change this variance, oil manufacturers use additives to change the oil's properties, reducing its viscosity at lower temperatures and thickening the oil at higher temperatures. When it's freshly made, conventional 5W-30 motor oil acts like its synthetic counterpart, but over time, the chemical additives break down or vaporize, returning the oil to its original consistency.

By contrast, synthetic oils are designed to match a specific type of multi-grade oil from the beginning. Even without additives, a synthetic 5W-30 motor oil will not degrade or change viscosity–it may only become slightly thicker from contaminants."

Hearst Auto Research, Car and Driver Publications.

Like I said, build the engine with the correct bearing clearances, then oil viscosity has little effect on the engine. When they quit making conventional oil or you can no longer find it, what then?

My father started selling lubricants in the mid 1930's and I still sell lubricants. Almost everything that is petroleum based is backordered. I haven't looked at the automotive department in a while so I don't know what they have in stock. Right at the moment I can't get any soda in glass bottles, no plastic cups for fountain drinks, air filters have tripled in price and the list goes on. I lived through the shortages of the 1970's, but it is nothing like what is going on now. I have been using Mobil One 15W50 in all of my older gasoline engines for about 10 years and most of them I haven't changed in 10 years. I am currently using Mobil Delvac 15W40 on all my Diesel engine. I am strongly considering the Cummins recommended Valvoline 15W40 for my Diesel engines. I currently change oil every 15,000 in my Cummins powered Internationals but I think I could save money by switching to synthetic and extending drain intervals. But for my old GMC gas engines, my 1962 Farmall I like the Mobil One 15W50 synthetic. It was actually developed for racing engines, etc. but it does just fine in older looser engines.

I have been using wally 30w for a couple years in my wore out 216 with good results. It is apparently for older Detroit diesels as it says on the jug not to use in newer vehicles, I think it says only for farm and construction use. I bought a couple gallons a couple weeks ago, if it is important to you I can look on the jug. Also EdPruss, it is always located away from other motor oil, it is over by 2 cycle and gear or hydraulic type oils. If I had known there was going to be a test I wold have paid more attention. Maybe Ill see if I can get some more tomorrow.

Product details
Maintain your off highway vehicle's engine in higher temperatures and keep it running cleaner for longer with SuperTech Heavy Duty SAE 30 Motor Oil. Engineered for 2-stroke off road diesel fleet and farm engines, and some 4-storke gasoline engines subjected to severe use in varying climate conditions. Compatible with most standard and synthetic oils, this heavy-duty motor oil will help protect your vehicle's engine against harmful deposits and acids and ensure it runs smoothly for a long time to come. Provides high oxidation stability, extreme pressure anti-wear protection against valve train wear and scuffing of highly loaded parts exposed to boundary lubrication. For use in high-temperature environments. Recommended for API CF-2 and CF/SG applications. Not intended for use in on highway vehicles.

Super Tech Conventional HD 30, 1 Gallon

I have taken the "not intended for highway use" to mean higher zinc for old camshafts, but that's just me.

Don't mean to beat this to death but if you don't want to go to the store, I just ordered online and recieved the above mentioned oil in about 4 days, Free shipping over $35, delivered to the house, who doesn't need 4 gal. eventually?