The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
9 members (Wickedbass, Donf, TexasJim50, treegrower, sron48, Bill Hanlon, rfs56trk, Hanks custodian, Wally / Montana), 49 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,075
Posts1,055,916
Members48,429
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1425383 09/28/2021 5:06 PM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 760
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 760
I'm nearly ready to paint my 1953 interior. I have replaced the inner cowl panels, so I now need to install a foot or two of the channel that the windlace slides into. I assume that I should drill a few holes in the center of the track and then weld it to the inner cowl panel. I'm a little concerned about grinding those welds flat enough to allow the new rubber to slide freely. I'll appreciate any advice regarding this. I also wondered if there is an adhesive that would work well enough that it wouldn't even need to be welded. I also wondered about possibly tack welding the new channel on the front edge, where it wouldn't show anyway. HELP


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
1947 Indian Chief
1943 Indian 741
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 122
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 122
Mike - like you described, I drilled 1/8" holes in the center of the track about 3" apart and plug welded it to the inner cowl panel. I then ground the weld so as to not interfere with the rubber installation. It worked out well for me. Just make sure to use a low heat setting on your welder so you don't blow through the track. They are not very thick. Good luck!!


Charlie

'51 3100 5-Window (Restomod in progress)
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
I did the same as Charlie when I replaced the lower portion of the tracks.

A small hole and a short blip with the MIG does the trick. You're doing it in the blind but sticking the cup centered on the track and pulling the trigger worked OK. I used a 3" cutoff disc to clean up the welds.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

Moderated by  ndkid275, Phak1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0