The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (Bill Hanlon, KEVINSKI, Gdads51, Otto Skorzeny), 130 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,164
Posts1,056,982
Members48,458
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 25
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 25
Looking for links to DIY resources, videos for speedometer and combination gauge assemblies removal. It seems like the assemblies should come out easily, I just couldn’t find the clip to push or screw to remove the assemblies, any tips, especially with pictures or diagrams to help me remove the assemblies is appreciated.

Preparing for a new wiring harness install, both gauge assemblies need to be refurbished. I would like to keep original assemblies and install 12 V upgraded fuel, temp etc gauges.


Thanks!
Attachments
IMG_0700.jpg (24.79 KB, 184 downloads)

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,139
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,139
The gauge assembly and speedometer are held in by studs welded to the back of the dash and 3/8 (IIRC) hex nuts accessed from the back. Use a nut driver and the braille method to get on the nuts. There are 4 per assembly. Once you have the nuts out, the assemblies go out thru the back.
Here's a couple pics of the gauge assembly showing the ears where the studs go thru. This is off a Chevy, but your GMC will be the same.
Attachments
IMG_2592.jpg (369.63 KB, 177 downloads)
IMG_2591a.jpg (196.76 KB, 176 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,259
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,259
Stand at the door, lean your shoulder in at the light switch, and go through the motion like your curling your bicep. Like Kevin says, have that nut driver in your hand. The ones down near the column will give you the hardest time. Mostly because of all the wires, collected mud, etc.

Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 25
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 25
Do you have a picture or a link to where I can purchase the correct length of nut driver?

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,259
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,259
They are all about the same. A 1/4" ratchet set works real nice, too.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,139
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,139
If you're concerned about the length of the stud, a 1/4" deep socket works nicely. I have a screwdriver style handle for 1/4" sockets that gets used a lot.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 261
N
'Bolter
'Bolter
N Offline
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 261
FWIW when you go to REinstall: I turned some long knurled nuts for mine (it was a tip I read here on a Stovebolt post). Eliminates the need for extra tools under the dash, they don't have to be particularly tight, just snug. You could have wingnuts on there if you wanted more leverage, but they will have to be extended for the wings to clear the housing. Believe the thread is #10-24. You could fabricate them other ways if you don't have access to a lathe.

I just had the gauges out again yesterday for some maintenance - so much nicer just to reach up and do it by hand.

Last edited by NorthCoast3800; 09/02/2021 7:18 PM.

1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver
OT Vehicles:
1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six
1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts)
1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway)
1973 F250 4x4 Highboy
1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,168
F
Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
F Offline
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,168
One thing about these old girls is that if something isn’t coming off, it is either bolted down or screwed on. There aren’t many “clips” on them and if you find them, they’re usually made of spring steel and not plastic.


Ahhh...


1970 Chevrolet C10
Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny
Follow the build in the Project Journal
1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually
"Ole Red Girl"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here
1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's
Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 25
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 25
Thanks Mark, Kevin, Northcoast3800, and Fox for your invaluable input. Yesterday, after a setback removing rusted on mirror bracket screws, I switched to removing my gauges.
After doing the bicep curl method, I successfully removed them both. Luckily, about half of the nuts come off by hand, and I used a small crescent wrench, and a 3/8 socket to remove the others! I really needed that win! I can’t thank you enough..

I do like the suggestion one of you made of replacing the stock nut with an easier to remove by hand substitute, as I can see future gauge upgrades once I replace my gas tank, Install my wiring harness, and add a missing linkage on the QuadraJet.

I plan on refurbishing both assemblies back to original look, as well as to work with the swapped in 350V8. Any suggestions on suppliers for gauge restoration, especially 12 V compatible?

Thanks again, I appreciate you brothers!
Attachments
IMG_3006.jpg (214.03 KB, 108 downloads)

Last edited by Winery Truck; 09/04/2021 3:37 PM.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
Huge win!


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,503
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,503
I have used Classic Parts for a replacement 12v gas gauge with success. Here is a link. https://www.classicparts.com/1947-51-Fuel-Gauge-GMC-w_-Red-Needle-12-Volt/productinfo/24%2D700BG/


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

Moderated by  ndkid275, Phak1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0