Looking for links to DIY resources, videos for speedometer and combination gauge assemblies removal. It seems like the assemblies should come out easily, I just couldn’t find the clip to push or screw to remove the assemblies, any tips, especially with pictures or diagrams to help me remove the assemblies is appreciated.
Preparing for a new wiring harness install, both gauge assemblies need to be refurbished. I would like to keep original assemblies and install 12 V upgraded fuel, temp etc gauges.
The gauge assembly and speedometer are held in by studs welded to the back of the dash and 3/8 (IIRC) hex nuts accessed from the back. Use a nut driver and the braille method to get on the nuts. There are 4 per assembly. Once you have the nuts out, the assemblies go out thru the back. Here's a couple pics of the gauge assembly showing the ears where the studs go thru. This is off a Chevy, but your GMC will be the same.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Stand at the door, lean your shoulder in at the light switch, and go through the motion like your curling your bicep. Like Kevin says, have that nut driver in your hand. The ones down near the column will give you the hardest time. Mostly because of all the wires, collected mud, etc.
If you're concerned about the length of the stud, a 1/4" deep socket works nicely. I have a screwdriver style handle for 1/4" sockets that gets used a lot.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
FWIW when you go to REinstall: I turned some long knurled nuts for mine (it was a tip I read here on a Stovebolt post). Eliminates the need for extra tools under the dash, they don't have to be particularly tight, just snug. You could have wingnuts on there if you wanted more leverage, but they will have to be extended for the wings to clear the housing. Believe the thread is #10-24. You could fabricate them other ways if you don't have access to a lathe.
I just had the gauges out again yesterday for some maintenance - so much nicer just to reach up and do it by hand.
Last edited by NorthCoast3800; 09/02/20217:18 PM.
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
One thing about these old girls is that if something isn’t coming off, it is either bolted down or screwed on. There aren’t many “clips” on them and if you find them, they’re usually made of spring steel and not plastic.
Ahhh...
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Thanks Mark, Kevin, Northcoast3800, and Fox for your invaluable input. Yesterday, after a setback removing rusted on mirror bracket screws, I switched to removing my gauges. After doing the bicep curl method, I successfully removed them both. Luckily, about half of the nuts come off by hand, and I used a small crescent wrench, and a 3/8 socket to remove the others! I really needed that win! I can’t thank you enough..
I do like the suggestion one of you made of replacing the stock nut with an easier to remove by hand substitute, as I can see future gauge upgrades once I replace my gas tank, Install my wiring harness, and add a missing linkage on the QuadraJet.
I plan on refurbishing both assemblies back to original look, as well as to work with the swapped in 350V8. Any suggestions on suppliers for gauge restoration, especially 12 V compatible?
I have used Classic Parts for a replacement 12v gas gauge with success. Here is a link. https://www.classicparts.com/1947-51-Fuel-Gauge-GMC-w_-Red-Needle-12-Volt/productinfo/24%2D700BG/
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum