I wasn't sure where to ask, but, I had to drill out and replace a couple of window regulator rollers and pins on my 46 Chevy (the picture is a similar make to my new ones). Can anyone recommend a rivet gun to reattach the roller with? (I'm assuming I need something similar to the picture). TIA!
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
Those rivets are installed by peening the backside over with a ball peen hammer on an anvil. A heavy vice or a big hunk of steel like a piece of railroad track will also work. The tool you are showing is for pop rivets and will not work in this application.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I replaced the roller on my window regulators on my '51 and the replacement rivets were semi-tubular. They take a tool to secure them. You can get them from various sources. You just tap them with a hammer. Here's a picture.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Mom, as the guys have said, the "pin" is basically a rivet. (a shoulder rivet). You don't need anything else......so.........This is a good method. Click
Much more control with a vise than a hammer.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
@Phak - Thank you! The tool came up in a search and it looked like it would fit the divot on the pin.
@ klhansen - Thank you! Mine aren't long pins like that. They're like the black ones in my picture. Yours look like the pin we're replacing in the shaft of my differential. =)
@ bartamos - Thank you! I've saved the video, and I'll give that method a try.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
My mistake, I forgot that those were solid rivets that were staked with a chisel. But after watching the video bartamos posted, it all came back to me. Just two whacks with a hammer and chisel does the trick. I didn't worry about crunching it in a vice. A correctly sharpened cold chisel expands the rivet nicely. Make sure the rivet is seated all the way in before staking.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Just to straighten out a few things in this thread. 1. The picture that Kevin posted are tools to use for upsetting certain rivets. They are not rivets. 2. The black pins that Mom shows are a hybrid "axle" for the rollers. Part axle, part rivet. The rivet part is a tubular rivet.
I also noticed that Classic Parts list them as starting in 47. Not sure why 46 was not included. So be aware of possible fit/design/application/installation issues.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Just two whacks with a hammer and chisel does the trick. I didn't worry about crunching it in a vice. A correctly sharpened cold chisel expands the rivet nicely. Make sure the rivet is seated all the way in before staking.