The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
7 members (Phoneman, SmalltownTRKGuy, Jon G, wilbur53, ShopRag, Southerntruck, 60steve), 109 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,212
Posts1,057,468
Members48,471
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 7
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 7
Hey everyone:

I just put together my 59 Chevy short fleetside for the first time and am having some body alignment issues. The cab and bed match up very nicely. However the front clip is off. The top of the fenders on both sides are touching the top of the doors (this is after I took the mounting pads off of the radiator support bracket) and there is a 1/2 gap on the bottom. The frame was not original to the truck but it is an original frame for the same model. I did install a TCI front suspension and 4 link. All body parts are original except the inner fenders. Anyone have this issue? Picture is attached. Thanks.
Attachments
IMG_3672.jpg (96.51 KB, 113 downloads)

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,188
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,188
My guess would be you need to raise the front of the cab. That will close up the gap at the lower part of the fenders.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,516
P
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
P Offline
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,516
Looking at the picture, the back of the fender look like it could come up a bit and that would close the gap a little.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,293
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,293
I do not have FAM for your year truck but I would research and find the cab to frame dimensions and verify that the cab floor to frame relationship is correct ( height of cab floor to frame near each of the cab mounts ). Not knowing if the "new frame" has been tweaked in its previous life and if you have the radiator support setting on the frame ( no pads , no shims ) then you'll need to work with the cab mounts. Just an opinion based on my experiences with a 54 1st series.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,236
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,236
You need to start at the front radiator core support. Once that's setting on it's mounts then raise or lower the cab to make it line up with the doors. Note; the gap at the rear edge of the doors needs to have already been adjusted before adjusting the front clip.

Are the fenders original or reproduction?

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 7
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 7
Thanks Mike. The fenders are original. I shimmed the front of the cab with the shims that come with the mounting kit. The lines for the bed and cab line of very well. I am concerned that if I shim the front of the cab anymore those lines will get off. I was thinking of moving the brackets on the radiator support to lower the front.

Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 7
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 7
Good suggestion on the assembly manual. I have one and will take a look. Thanks.

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,236
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,236
I wouldn't worry about the bed at this time...get the cab and fenders lined up first which may require you to lift the cab. Then shim the bed to match the cab...you should not have to cut anything. Your repro mount kit may not be as tall as original.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 98
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 98
Is there a certain amount of shims that an be placed under the front cab mounting points? Only 2 or as many as it takes to level the cab cowl to the fender. I have 5 under each side.


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0