The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (Otto Skorzeny, Bill Hanlon, msmall, Erniegp), 48 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,022
Posts1,055,378
Members48,422
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1418554 07/28/2021 9:51 PM
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
E
'Bolter
'Bolter
E Offline
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
This is on my '48 GMC, 228 engine. The heat riser is stuck and I've been trying to get it freed up with no luck so far. I have the exhaust system off for some new pipe and took the opportunity to look at the flap position inside the manifold. Am I correct in thinking that the flap should be completely closed? The picture shows it doesn't fit flush, with an opening about 3/8" wide. One of the quirks of this truck is that after the engine is completely warmed up it will only idle for a few minutes then slowly die out. I'd like to get the flap free and restore its proper function and it would be great if it solves my weak idle problem at the same time. What do you think?
Attachments
Heat Riser 002.JPG (72.11 KB, 107 downloads)

Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,478
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,478
You can get that open by using penetrating oil (think Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc). Spray the shafts (in and out). Let it sit a while and then gently tap with a small hammer until you feel it start to move when you wiggle the counterweight. Or at least that's how I usually do it. Some claim you can heat the manifold up, quench it and that will free it, but that trick never worked for me. But I figure somebody will show up in 10, 9, 8, 7, 6 seconds and tell you to do something else. In my opinion you mostly want to let the penetrating oil do the work, wiggling a bit to help it along. It may take a while, however it took a while for it to get in this condition...Good luck! Years ago there was a penetrating oil made here in Texas that was a real treat to use and would free something like that up in a minute or two but the company closed.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,289
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,289
Jon - agreed, the Kroil or Liquid wrench and tap, tap, tap on each end of the shaft towards the center back and forth, while applying turning force on the counterweight. Go slowly and you'll finally get it freed up. Patience is your friend on this one.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 771
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 771
Eureka Jim,

If it doesn't free up to your satisfaction, you can always rebuild it. Check this out. (CLICK)


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0