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| | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 761 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 761 | I am thinking of using Bondo type filler on the interior of my cab to help hide weld seams on patch panels and such. I can't see any reason not to do that, but I thought that I'd just check with the vast experience of this list first.
Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
1947 Indian Chief
1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,310 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,310 | Why not? It works on outer panels, and they are out in the weather. I use body filler on the interior. Work fine, last long time. Fy dolla.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,511 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,511 | Bondo is fine and if you have small seams, etc J.B. Weld can be used. It sometimes makes a better sanding surface than Bondo type fillers (which can suffer air bubbles). Also...and some may find this a negative, but I certainly don't...if you use J. B. Weld, you can use J. B. Kwik-Weld and slow the set-up time by adding slightly less than 50% hardener or you can use the regular J. B. Weld which sets up much slower. This gives you time to get things just right. With Bondo and typical fillers, I find they tend to set up too doggone fast...often while you're trying to paddle them on the metal.
~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,886 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,886 | Devcon has an industrial quality product that's far superior to J-B Weld. It's called "Plastic Steel". The regular stuff has a 45 minute cure time, and there's also a 5-minute quick setting version. https://itwperformancepolymers.com/...ding-repair/devcon-plastic-steel-putty-aJewrry
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| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 1,660 Curmudgeon | | Curmudgeon Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 1,660 | If you have a typical lap-weld with a raised bead down the seam, for strength, then you may not be happy with any of the Bondos and epoxies. This would be a panel that is visible and not something on the floor that you cover with a mat. You fill-in along each side of the bead and sand smooth and uniform but it will still be obvious after painting (light reflection on a raised surface). If you don't want evidence of where you have worked I would consider covering it with some type of interior fabric or a pre-formed covering.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 58 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 58 | The seams need to be welded solid, otherwise the filler will crack. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 761 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 761 | Oh yes, all of the seams in question will be welded first
Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
1947 Indian Chief
1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 |
Evan
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 1,660 Curmudgeon | | Curmudgeon Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 1,660 | I think I missed the boat on this one.
I was thinking of a patch like a portion of the side or top of the cab where the weld bead on the inside would be visible.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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