The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 vs. 235 Throttle Linkage

I have a 1941 Chevrolet Pickup and I am installing at 1955 Chevrolet 235 six in place of the original 216. If anyone has done this conversion, what did you do when you hooked up the throttle linkage? The location of the pivot point for the bell crank that connects the carburetor linkage to the accelerator linkage is approximately 12 1/2" from the back of the engine on the 216 versus 9 1/2" from the back of the engine on the 235. The original accelerator to bell crank linkage rod is 3 inches too long. I was wondering if there are any aftermarket solutions, or did anyone fabricate a new rod, or modify the existing rod? If you have photos of how you modified your old rod to fit, it would really help with this project. My thanks in advance.

A 1955 235 would also have 2 drilled positions. Use the 216 position with same linkage.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/79398/Searchpage/1/Main/12004/Words/"throttle+pivot+positions"/Search/true/re-216-235-swap-accelerator-to-carb-linkage-assy-in-a-41.html#Post79398

Would you know if that second position for the throttle pivot has a plug that goes into a water jacket on the 235? If so, then I know where that is. I will look at it again.

And thank you Buoymaker for responding to my question so quickly. If we have that pivot position that matches are linkage for the 216 you're lifesaver (or at least a major time saver, which is basically the same thing!)

Thank you.

The different bellcrank position is to accommodate the difference in exhaust manifold shape. Later model manifolds are angled toward the rear which requires the bellcrank to be moved to the rear position. If you have the angled exhaust and the forward bellcrank position, you might have to do some creative linkage fabrication between the bellcrank and the carburetor.
Jerry

I swapped in a 1958 235 in place of a 216 in my 1952, ran into the same problem.

I measured the difference in bellcrank location between the 216 and 235 and just cut the rod shorter the corresponding amount. Bevel, weld, grind, paint, and fit it back into place.

Another option. http://chev235guy.blogspot.com/search/label/216%20235%20Throttle%20Pivot%20Positions?m=0

Are you into the water jacket there? And do you use the earlier (vehicle) linkage or the later (engine) linkage for a 60-62 engine?

This adaptation does go into the water jacket(which the original 216 and 1941-59 235 pivot did) and is done so one can use the 216 linkage during a 235 swap.

I did exactly as Pre ‘68 Dave linked. I used a ‘52 linkage on a ‘59 235 transplant. I moved the linkage to the forward position, used a little Permatex #2 on the bellcrank pivot pin and it worked with no modification to the linkage at all. My exhaust manifold is of the angled type.

Although the engine at this point was not in the truck, the picture shows the stock linkage clears the manifolds with no issues. After installation, the stock linkage to the pedal hooked right up.

Exceptions make the rule. I have a 1961 261 (casting # 3769925, casting date A241). It has the 2 holes, both in raised surfaces on the block. My throttle pivot is on the rear position.

The forward hole is not flush with the block as would be in Dave's option.

Why would they do this? My 261 does not have a number stamped by the distributor. Does that say it was a replacement engine? Maybe they wanted to give the option of using this engine with earlier trucks with earlier linkages. Who knows.

The hole was not flush on my 235 either, but it did go into the water jacket. I moved the existing screw into the rear position (no sealant as it’s a blind hole) and inserted the pivot into the forward position with sealant.

Thanks everyone who responded to this question. One of the issues I found was that the aftermarket pivot bolt that bolts to the engine is longer than the stock bolt, and it has threads for a nut rather than a groove in the pivot shaft for a hairpin clip like the original. If I can post a picture of it, I will compare it to a stock pivot pin. I have the stock pivot pin, but it was bent and after straightening out I didn't have enough confidence in it that it wouldn't sheer, and I didn't want to have to fish a broken stud out of the block.

Post a want ad in the Truck Parts Wanted forum. I’ve always had luck finding what I need.

Here is a link on how to post pictures.

https://www.stovebolt.com/forum/manual/StoveboltImagePolicy.pdf

I see how to post photos now, thanks for the tip. I am including a photo comparing the original pivot bolt that mounts to a Chevy 6 cylinder to an aftermarket replacement. The replacement pivot is longer and has a thread on the end instead of smooth shaft with a groove for a hairpin style clip. The shank of the new part is also wider where it connects up to the engine, making the bellcrank stand out further from the block than original. The original pivot shown in this post was bent and I straightened it, but I am not confident that it won't shear at some point, and cause a problem extracting the stud. But an original part, undamaged, will work better for sure.

Take your original and the replacement to a machine shop and they can turn the new one to look just like the old one in about 15-20 minutes.