I pressure washed my engine to be able to see the bolts it was so dirty. Then I pulled the carb and manifolds, generator, fuel pump, side cover and head. This is a Chevy 59 235 truck engine in my 48 Chevy 3600. I bought it knowing it was stuck from 40 years of sitting. After getting the head off I found #4 cylinder was the one that had the rust. All the others were nice and shiny. Condensation or water under the valve cover gasket that deteriated over the many years of sitting. It has .040 over pistons already. I'm thinking ahead a little about a new cam and boring it out to .060, and a head rework so far. Once I get the engine out of the truck and pull the pan and inspect the crankshaft I'll know more what the lower end needs. Where would you guys buy the engine parts for a job like this. I looked a little but did not fine a whole lot. Jim Carter lists some of the parts but on back order. Is there a better cam than the stock one listed for the 235-261? I have a lot of engine rebuild experience over the years just not recently. I rebuilt my first car an Olds F85, My Ford 2 ton truck that had a 223 six in it, a 67 283 Camaro, a 66 283 Chevelle. JD gas crawler, a cat D4 power unit. A 1930 JD GP. A Cummins NHC 855 Small cam power unit. So many tractors and small engines that I can't remember them all.
You might try Rock Auto for parts first. Their prices are often the best around. As for the camshaft, if you're using hydraulic lifters then the cam from the 1959 235 will be your best bet. The 235 in 1959 until the end of production had its torque peak at 2000 rpm...about the equivalent of the Vette 235. If you're going with solid lifters, some like the Elgin or Melling camshaft which is about the same grind as as the Vette. Elgin's number is E-293-S and Melling's is CCS-1 as I recall.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Have you talked to a machine shop about doing the work and if they are able to get the parts? That would be my first avenue to find what was needed. Find and engine machine shop that has been around for a long time and go talk to them. Most times if they can do the work they will check on the availability of parts first. They may can tell you if the block can go larger than the .060 if needed to clear the rust.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Bearings, ebay. They are all over. Cam, rod and mains. Rock auto also.
Pistons, sometimes ebay, sealed power and Edgge Machine. They can sell you rings also. Rock auto may also have them.
Gaskets sets are available new, rock auto,
Intake and exhaust gasket, your gasket set will have the stock type, a better version is sold by Rimflex.
Exhaust valve, use new 1 piece small block Chevy 1.5, same size. Intake, nos on eBay, rock auto.
Lifters, if running a hydraulic grind camshaft, kick the ebay bushes and obtain a nice set of gm nos lifters. 55-58 are different then 59-62 so make sure you get the correct lifter. Solid cam shaft, use solid lifters for a 56-62 261 chevy. Do not use the earlier style milk bottle shaped lifters with the solid sides. You need the later style.
Timing gears, use the aluminum/steel set for a 56-62 261 chevy. Don’t use the stock style fiber type cam gear, The aluminum is way more durable.
Rocker arms, the 55-58 are different then 59-62. If yours need rebuilding, Rocker Arms Unlimited in California is the best for rebuilding. They will rechrome and remachine the shaft and rebuild the arms and adjusters back to as new.
Push rods, the originals were solid and prone to bending. Aftermarket are tube type. Much stronger. Sealed power, trw. Rock auto has them.
Cam, your call. Stock grind, any of the cam grinders can regrind your core. Couple of others may be able to get you a new cam. Hotter cam, you probably want to limit duration to 264 degrees and lift to .450. A stock rebuild really can’t make use of any more cam.
