The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1954 GMC 100 vIN Help

I’m looking at a 1954 GMC 100 to purchase.

From what I can decode, it’s a 1/2 ton, Oakland built with a 248 engine. I don’t know what the Z means. Any light you can shed would be greatly appreciated. I’d like to verify that it’s a 116 wheelbase(Shortbed).

I’m also including the engine number the owner gave me over the phone, for your help identifying it as well. I’ll include a picture from the seller’s ad.

10124 CZ 2856

Engine # 3836848



Thanks again

Try the gmc website it has imfo on the serial numbers like this

FYI, that’s not an engine # that is a head casting #. It is a desirable head.

Engine SN’s on GMC trucks, r side, stamped on machined surface behind distributor start with displacement i e 248xxxx. If it has 6 bolt wheels, half ton.

Ed

"Engine # 3836848"
If that is a head casting code, it is a Chevrolet 235 head
It would not be on a 228/248/270/302 USA GMC block.

Winery Truck - if you have a Chevrolet engine, with that head casting code, you might want to fully ID that engine.

If that code pressed into the block behind the distributor, "10124 CZ 2856" is a GMC code, you might have a 235 Chevrolet engine that someone put a GMC code behind the distributor so they could get that truck registered in a state that used/uses the Engine Serial Number for title/registration.

Find and post the various codes at the locations shown on this page.

All half ton trucks of that vintage had 116" wheelbase and the pickup beds were all the same length.

Leo, GMC had a 1/2 ton long bed all thru the early 1950's (I don't know exactly what year they started making them)...Chevrolet didn't get them until 1955 2nd as the 3200 Series.

Mike B

Maybe this will help?
A better and clearer picture of the distance from the cab to the rear fender may help.
The cabs, except COE, can be used on other frames.

[quote=Mike

Leo, GMC had a 1/2 ton long bed all thru the early 1950's (I don't know exactly what year they started making them)...Chevrolet didn't get them until 1955 2nd as the 3200 Series.

Mike B [/quote]
Sorry about that, I had Chevy 3100s in mind. Thanks for the correction.

After inspecting this truck today, we were able to make out this number stamped on the engine;

CON Z K64 , very difficult to read, may not be correct.

What I did verify from the stamping # 3836848 , it’s a 235 used in 56 to 62 Chevys, instead of the 248 it GMC should have.

Overall, even the the engine is not currently running, it seems to be in very good shape overall. Is it worth me lowering my offer due to the engine?

Thanks!

The engine/head numbers you are giving us are called "Casting Numbers", these are not the stamped engine code/serial numbers. There is a flat machined surface to the rear of the distributor that will have the engine code and serial number. You may need to scrap the paint off to see the numbers.

The CON 2 is the conveyor that the engine was cast on and the K64 is the date code with K = month, 6 = day and 4 being the year (1954 or 1964). Without the engine casting number found on the front passenger side of the block down near the oil pan we can't say for sure what the engine is. So far you only know what the head is...

Did you confirm the title serial number is the same as what's on the truck?

Mike B

A non running engine definitely lowers the price whether it’s original to the truck or not. My non running engine cost me a year of tinkering after I got it running and ultimately a rebuild which included a complete re-machining. I did most of the work, but just the machining cost me $1,800.

My lesson from it all is there “non running” for a reason and that reason could be that there shot!

Canadian gmc came with a 235 chev engine was a 9300 series on the hood .Yours I see says gmc 100 but either engine or hood badge could have been swapped?

Yes, especially since not running, can seller get it running? Perhaps seller doesn’t know what engine. Pickups didn’t come with 248’s.

Ed

If you are not a purest, the exact motor, Chevy or GMC is not a big deal. The fact that it does not run is a factor on price. Since I don't know the price range, here are you thought patterns:

1a. Legit VIN riveted to the truck HAS TO match a legit title.
1b. Body rust
2. Body rust
3. Frame rust
4. Bad rust fixes
5. Completeness and/or originality of parts.
6. Glass
7. The price
Now to the motor: On one hand, to me, it's not a big deal. I just fix it for cheap or buy another running motor. On the other hand, it's difficult to check trans, clutch, brakes, steering, suspension, cooling, oil pressure, compression without driving. Bottom line is that a non runner should have a discount.
SO...........if you want to: See if motor turns over by hand or rocking/pushing in gear, or starter. See if brakes go to floor or hold truck from rolling. See if clutch keeps truck from rolling and when released, truck rolls. If you check compression, the seller may use it against you.

We don't know your purpose or vision, your experience, the price, the condition. If the only problem is the motor, that would be semi normal. Some people rebuild and spend $1000's. I buy a motor that drops in and runs for $400 and sell the other or use it's accessories. Make the motor a big deal and feel out the seller. Get the history, the last time ran, the date on license tag and judge the character and words of seller. Be honest yourself. Anything can be fixed.
Looks in good condition, check for bondo and broken body parts. Ask why it has tow bar brackets.
Missing front valance. Strange rust hole in mustache. See how long he has owned it to see if he is a flipper.

The VIN is a legit GMC serial number 101-24 CZ 2856. It is a 10= 1/2T 100 series, 1=short bed, 24= 248 motor, C= Oakland, Z= 1954. 1855th off the line (started numbering after 1001)

Thank you all for your replies, including purchase/inspection tips. Truck, inspite of not currently running, is an older restoration with original radio, redone upholstery, including cabin padding and back of seat upholstery. Glass, window cranks in good working condition. Found non penetrating rust under the truck, underneath the seats, in the thin square tubular supports. Looks very reparable. Inside cab painted a nice candy apple red. The exterior truck paint clear coat looks new, the red dye faded, giving it a cool patina look. At 13K now, but that offer was when we both assumed it had the original 248. Seller claims he drove it, and stated brakes and transmission worked. Given the very good restoration level, it would seem to be a good buy.
I told seller I would be amending my offer based on the smaller engine. Is this a fair move? Before the engine discovery, the seller agreed to reduce price by 1K... how much of a discount if any should I ask for?
?
Any further advice is greatly appreciated. Even though I was in charge of the entire fleet of vehicles at a large Southern California PD, this will be my first AD truck.

Thanks again brothers👍🏻🛻

I’m attaching pictures I took of truck after inspecting it a couple of days ago.
Yes, vin plate on door matches vin on title.

So, it has a Chevy engine, no big deal, just not original. Not running and not able to test a lot of stuff as mentioned above a big deal. Is he wanting $13,000,? I think 9 or 10 would be better because on non-running engine would be safer. Depends on what you want. Engine rebuild easily cost $2,000. Plus. But if you want a V-8 anyway, who cares. GMC 302 would drop right in there, more HP, still cost same to rebuild. Is it original 6V or converted to 12V? Bargaining point.

Rust repair is big $, mechanical repair not so big.
Ed

Thanks Ed for this advice! I told seller I would get back to him as I have a running 1950 GMC matching numbers to inspect next, it’s listed at 10,500. Needs brakes, but runs. From listing pictures, cab corners have rust repairs. I told the 54 gmc seller about this other truck to gain leverage. Things might get interesting!

Please keep suggestions coming!

The big question is what "does not run mean"?. What does it do or not do with a battery in it? Does it try to start? does it sputter? Backfire? No fire? With not battery and just a "does not run" is VERY suspicious. Maybe you have more info already?

Who would try to sell a truck without getting it to run unless it has SERIOUS problems.
Paranoia says timing busted or way worse. Don't get carried away with a paint job. You know nothing about it's quality. You don't buy $13K patina. I have had good luck waiting a month and come back. It will not sell for that with no running motor. Nothing special about it. You are in California. Lots of low rust trucks.

It's hard for us to say. No one can give good advice without seeing it in person. I think looking at a few in various price ranges and condition is the right thing to do if you are new to these trucks.
Truck all detailed but motor has a bad appearance? Is that a red flag? Was this a donor truck that gave it's 248, it's bumper and it's valance?....
I'm lower than EdPruss on this one. But he knows AD values. I don't. My comments are generic buying points. My area is 55.2-66.

I’m with Ed on this one. With a non running engine, you can’t check the tranny, rear end brakes etc. 10K would be generous!

Throws up a red flag for me too.

If it has been sitting for a while, especially with today’s fuel, valve might be stuck, if try to turn it over will bend pushrods. Make sure seller knows this if he try’s to start it. Solution is to remove valve cover and oil valve stems, push down on each valve stem gently(rubber hammer or 2x4) to verify, if stuck and cannot release, pull head.

I see you live in Orange, my grandparents used to live at 317 Schafer St.

Ed

Thanks Ed, I will try your suggestion. It’s a small world, my brother lived in City of Orange as well...

Phak1,

You guys are the best! Great advice on what to look for! We have a lot of flippers in California, and they typically know very little about what they’re selling.

I like your idea of waiting if I can’t get him Lowe than 13K.

Let’s keep the discussion Truck related please.