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#1407175 04/23/2021 12:51 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Changing the rear wheel cylinders ( Huck brakes) on my 49 3100. Continuing to use Dot 5 fluid. Should I use brake fluid to lube the rubbers and cylinder wall or is there a better alternative? Thanks Ed


Ed
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Not one I've ever found.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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7
'Bolter
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Brake fluid is the only recommended lube.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Joined: Oct 2005
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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They are correct, unless you use a product specifically made for that purpose.
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assemblylube.jpg (63.66 KB, 152 downloads)

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'Bolter
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Thanks for the input. I'll stick with brake fluid.


Ed
Joined: Oct 2005
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
The nice thing about brake fluid, except for DOT 5 which exhibits more compressibility, is that it absorbs moisture. So the brake fluid left exposed after using it as an assembly lube will start causing corrosion right away. Like between the cup and the boot. Which eventually damages the steel, then the cup and causes leaks. Then wheel cylinder failure.

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M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I agree with Mark, I only use "Brake Assembly Lube" and do my best to keep the DOT-3 OFF of everything else because it eats paint and starts premature corrosion.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I'll continue to use Dot 5 in my system, don't think there will be issues like Dot 3/4.


Ed
Joined: Oct 2005
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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You'll be fine with DOT 5.

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'Bolter
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Some old timey service documents make reference to using mineral oil to lubricate brake parts at assembly with implication that it was the method used by GM factory.
-s

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by 2ManyTrucks
Some old timey service documents make reference to using mineral oil to lubricate brake parts at assembly with implication that it was the method used by GM factory.
-s
The 47-53 service manual has a note on brake cylinder disassembly that says "Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or any other cleaning fluid that might contain even a trace of mineral oil." which implies that mineral oil is not good.
It also says to "dip internal parts in brake fluid" on assembly.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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2
'Bolter
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Ah then they must of changed their mind on mineral oil
Perhaps there was an incident smile
If I find the document that said to use it I’ll try to remember to post it for interest sake
But by all means done use that stuff then!
Thanks
-s

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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Some brake fluid is still made of mineral oil, for what it is worth. Most today are ether/glycol (except for DOT5 which I think is silicone based), but LHM stands for Liquide Hydraulique Mineral. What I've seen is green and it won't absorb water.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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I use a thin film of silicone grease. It may not desolve in the brake fluid but a small amount will never hurt anything. It is really slick.
George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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