The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Bleedin' Brakes! HELP!

Ok...I'm about as frustrated as a guy can get. Please! Can someone help me?

I'm working on my '54 1.5 ton. Just replaced shoes on the rear and rebuilt the cylinders on the left side, rear. Right side rear appeared to be ok. Have not opened up the front yet. Have adjusted all 4 corners.

This set up used to have a vacuum assit but it has been bypassed. So all I have is one line out of the back of the master cylinder to a T that branches front and back. Then each branch has a T to each side. That's it. Very simple.

Before I started any of this I would have to pump the brakes 2x to get hard pedal. First pump would go to the floor. Second pump would be 1/2 travel and third pump would be full, hard pedal. Then the right rear gave out and sprung a leak. In doing so I'm sure I introduced a great volume of air to the system. I have since done the repairs listed above.

Now I'm trying to bleed the bloody brakes and having no luck. First try we went with pumping, holding pedal, releasing pressure at the bleed valve and repeat on each corner. After that proceedure best we could get was spongy brakes after 5 pumps. Then we went with a Might Vac vacuum bleed. I've run a great deal of fluid through each corner getting the air out. At first I got mostly air and little fluid. Now mostly fluid. It's hard to know when to quit. Anyway, after getting it "bled" as best I could by this system the pedal is worse!! I'm losing ground and don't know why!!

Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong, or what might be the problem? I bled 16 oz. of fluid off the front right before it looked like it might be ready.

I'd appreciate any help at all!!

Thanks!!!!

Sounds like your master cylinder went to hell. It must have damaged a seal when the rear line blew,
Scott

Well, I think I found out what it was. I was sure there were no leaks...but I noticed a small drop of fluid at the bottom of the drum on the left front. I thought it was where I had dripped or spilled fluid, but I wiped it clean and it reappeared in a few minutes. Ergo, I must have a leak at that wheel cylinder. That would explain pulling air into the system when I vacuum bled it.

Next thing will be to pull that wheel off and check it out.

I'll post a follow up once I find out. Thanks!!!

It is NOT a good practice to rebuild or replace one wheel cylinder. the next weaker one will surely blow.
When it comes to brakes, don't cut corners.

A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and your brake system is only as strong as your weakest component.

You don't wanna be doing 45MPH and find out that one of the other wheel cylinders was on its last leg, too.

You need to put a kit in the master cyl. so you have something to start with. If the wheel cyls. on the rear are at an angle they are hard to bleed. You might have to bleed them with them loose or remove the shoe & bleed it though the edge of the cup.

I imagine after you look at the front cylinder you will find some peace. Be sure that you are doing the bleeding in the proper order. Essentially you start the furthest away fromt he master cylinder and work your way closer.
It will probably be left rear, then front left, rear right then front right.

I had to put a huge amount through my truck and finally got that one bubble to finally pop out.

The vac has been bypassed? Carefull under load, you may not have the brake power you need.

Make shure all the brakes are adjusted up good. You could have a low pedal because of excessive clearance in some of the shoes.

Okay, I'm ignorant I guess, but it appears to me if you assume a master cylinder in the left front corner of the vehicle, the order would be:

Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front

My rear brake line crosses over to the passenger side and tee's on the back of the rear axle making the left rear the furthest away by the way the line is run.

I bleed in this order LR, RR, RF then LF. Check the way your lines are run to be correct on your truck.

Also, don't forget to replace the steel lines if they are original. They might LOOK good but after 50+ years they can rust from the inside out. They ars not very expensive and can be run in less than one days work. If you have a bender you're in good shape, if not they can be bent CAREFULLY around a round pipe (about 3 in. diameter). DO NOT KINK.

The rubber lines can colaps on the inside and act like a check valve not allowing the brakes to release, so replace them too!

Be Safe!

and if all else fails - consult the shop manual - carefully - written by the folks who designed yer truck for the average wrencher

Bill

My rear brake line crosses over to the passenger side and tee's on the back of the rear axle making the left rear the furthest away by the way the line is run.


Ooooooohhhhhh, I see.