I am involved in an "on again, off again relationship" with my truck. It's actually just a time thing. A 1948 Dump bed I found on the side of the road. I've been reading the wealth of knowledge that exist hear and am hoping to tap into it. This is my test post to see if I can get this step working.
Now that you figured out how to post a text message you need to post a picture of your truck! Instructions for posting pictures are at the bottom of the left margin on every page...
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
Had a 216 in it. Dump worked. I have since pulled it all apart and am in the midst of cleaning it up restoration style. A buddy gave me a 235 out of a 56 pick up. Cab is done, engine overhauled and frame cleaned up. Last thing is running gear.
I swear I'm trying to find this stuff before I come whining for help. When I took the right side rear end apart, the thrust washer was missing all together. The part number in the master catalog is 3685197 I think. But here is the picture of it in the shop manual. Is this something that might have another part number?
Do you have the one from the other side to use as a pattern? That's not a high tech part- - - -you can make one from a big flat washer by spending a little time with files and a grinding wheel. Getting the anti-rotate tab on the inside shaped correctly is the biggest challenge. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Was in my shop the other day and ran across a spare thrust washer from my 1941 bigbolt restoration. Shoot me some ID/OD/thickness measurements of the washer you need and who knows, perhaps I have a match.
A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.
1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 1963 Kaiser M38A1 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Glad things worked out- - - -I was about to offer to crank up the lathe and make one for you! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Sent the brakes out to get relined with all the hardware attached. It took 7 weeks and they lost some parts. "That's the way we got them." is the answer I'm getting. So..... I am looking for the pins and clips that connect the shoes. Anyone have a source?
Bummer, that’s why a ‘before’ picture is a valuable thing.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Amen to that. I have pics before and after. I took the brakes to one place and they sent them out to another. They are kind of pointing the finger at each other. I deal with it in the marine industry all the time. Shop “A” is trying to make up for it by finding replacements. I’m just trying to be proactive and see if I can find them. I am more motivated.
I ordered a tie rod end and got a one that is to big for tie rod. Did some more reading, Found out there is a HD version for the 1 1/2 T. I have the tube type tie rod with 13/16 size thread. The box in the picture shows AC Delco P# 45A0006. Got it from Rock Auto. They also have a 45A0001(Left) with .812 x 18 threads and I assume they may have a 45A0002 (right). This tie rod is bent and will have to be delt with one way or another. Any substantial reason to go beefier?
If you ever convert to powers steering a lot of guys like beefier. It also will be less prone to bending. Only reason it wasn’t beefier on stock was purely cost.
If you ever convert to powers steering a lot of guys like beefier. It also will be less prone to bending. Only reason it wasn’t beefier on stock was purely cost.
Wheel Bearing Nut torque is my question of the day.
I went to the shop and was going to torque the nut on the wheel bearing. I had 35 lbs in my head (left the book at home, home is 10 miles away), and when I got to that value the wheel seemed a little stiff. So I stopped and and went back home to have lunch and consult the manual. So I had it wrong, it's 33 lbs. When I go back I'll try that. And as I am usually a "buy the book" kinda of guy when it comes to that stuff, I did see a guy working on a 1/2 ton that would just tighten the nut till the wheel would not spin and then back the nut off a 1/4 turn or so.
My question is, is there a pro tip beyond the book for torqueing the Front wheel bearing nut out there?
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