Does anyone have experience removing the paint off the vehicle ID data plate. Also, what does the unpainted data plate look like for a 1950 Chevy 3100? Last night I tried brake fluid, and not even a ripple. I have heard about using the oven cleaner OFF with the yellow cap. This is a one time thing so if it is possible I would like to get it correct if I can recover the original detail of the data plate.
Darren Current Project - 1950 3100 5 Window with a rebuilt 216 and 3 speed trans
I had some really old (well cured) overspray on mine and got it off with some xylene on a shop towel. Don’t have a picture available right now. It it’s polished aluminum border with black interior.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I had some really old (well cured) overspray on mine and got it off with some xylene on a shop towel. Don’t have a picture available right now. It it’s polished aluminum border with black interior.
Very well said ,that is going to be a real pain to get the paint off. You might try a heat gun ,to get some blisters and try to peel
I will try to remember tomorrow, to take a pic of my truck's plate.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
During the summer I worked in a body shop when I was a kid. I was shown how to use lacquer thinner to remove any overspray. A little bit on a rag and rub to take the paint off. The thinner evaporates quickly so you continue rubbing, as needed, till the paint is gone. Old, dry, hard paint takes longer and a lot more time rubbing. You may have to take very fine sandpaper and gently/evenly thin-out the topcoat a little. Then follow with the thinner and more rubbing. Basically you are taking the paint off in even layers as the color changes. I would stop when you begin to see the text. If you continue you risk removing the original black paint. A lot of these old trucks have overspray and crud (I call it patina). You only need to show enough, that there is an original vin tag underneath the paint.
Do not use shop/commercial paint stripper. It will bubble up all the layers of paint and attack the aluminum plate.
Last edited by buoymaker; 03/05/20216:56 AM.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
bouymaker, Great advice that I can second. Question, the data plate you show has Hutch screws, I though rivets were the factory method of attachment. Have you seen many with screws?
This information is provided to help determine if a truck has the original VIN tag. Today it is illegal to remove a VIN tag and/or alter, move, swap or modify one.
The clutch head screw is a special design. The rivet is not hollow. It is slit(?) to expand out on the backside.
I attached a picture of a repop with modern rivets. This was on a $50K "restored??" 1954 1/2 ton. If it was my truck, I would have taken the extra step to make it legit with my state DMV (probably re-stamping).
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
OP’s question has been answered, so closing the thread.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
