The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Cost ?

Just wondering what you fella's might think the average shop might charge to pull an original 216 and 3 speed and have it replaced with a 235 and a 5 speed T5? Major parts, the motor and trans would be supplied but any small parts, clutch, gaskets and such would be added charge.
I have a friend who wants his 51 AD done and I don't have the time or the space to help him. He has asked a couple of shops but hasn't gotten their estimates yet. I do all my own stuff
but don't have a clue what a shop might charge.
Any guesses?

Chuck

CayoRV Wouldn't have any idea,but alot 4or 5 thousand guessing. In the first place a lot of these parts are antiques that are questionable on quality. Bore the block,hit sandholes,head needs hard seats,guides it takes a pile of parts, That is why a lot of bolters do their own work. It mostly gets done in stages because it is hard to get all the parts at once. that job will take serious driveline work too. Maybe others will chime-in and recommend a shop in your area. Good Luck !!

He already has had an early 60's 235 rebuilt by a local and very reputable shop and he has a pretty low mileage T5 from an S10. I told him he would need an open dif rear (S10) which he is in the process of getting now. What he's looking for is an idea of the installation cost a garage might charge. He wants to be driving it in the spring and I would normally be able to help a buddy out but life has just gotten in the way so I just figured I'd see what I could find out for him. I'm guessing he'll be looking at a couple of grand anyway.

If I could have charged what these shops charge now when I had a shop, I would be filthy rich. I 'm like Fixite, i would imagine 4-5 grand on up. There will be 1G in parts.
Then the quality of work will not likely be like if a guy was doing it himself.
George

Sounds like your bud's on the right track. My suggestion is get ALL the parts together including the clutch/pressure plate package that's compatible with the proper length input shaft for the T5, the shifter he wants to run along new motor mounts and all the other ancillary parts needed. Unless you find a shop like Coilover (forum name) has in Tx or someone like Hotrod Lincoln (forum member) to do the work, they won't have any idea where to buy parts or the special mostly lost knowledge to do the job. It's expensive to pay for a shops OJT.

One of the down sides to bringing in your own parts is it knocks the shop out of their markup profit and they'll (very likely) not provide warranty since parts weren't sourced from their vendors.

In you friends shoes, I'd find an employee of a good Old shop that works on the side. Make sure he does the work in a space that can't be tied up too long (incentive to get it finished and gone). Best would be have a completion time as part of the deal. And never pay up front.

If you figure a shop taking one week (40 hours) to do the work labor only and $100 per hour shop rate, then $4k is easy to expect. Most individuals doing side work I'd think would do the job for about half or $2k in my neck of the woods.

Good Luck
RonR

Great suggestion moparguy. I know a couple of guys who do some side work. I'll send him that direction.

Chuck

I agree with many of the comments.
I guess if someone here wants to estimate what a shop would estimate..............what's that worth?

Most would not want to guaranty anything when using someone else's parts. So if there is a problem, you will fight with them and they will say we told you we don't guaranty. Just find a guy like yourself who does it part time and does have time and space. If you take it to a shop, you may not see it for two years and the "estimate" will definitely double because you are a hostage.

Orrrrrrrrrrrr............

This is a 100% DIY Website and that is a 100% DIY job. Many here have done all that you mention to the era of truck you mention. The shop has not done any. None of it is difficult especially with advice from Stovebolt. Buying a cherry picker and a few gaskets and clutch is 99% cheaper than a shop. Surely you have time to go to his house once in a while to direct him.

I am definitely not bad mouthing mechanics, they are valuable people. But shops? well............

If the truck is at his house and the motor and trans are at his house, I guess he has the space.

I like to do stuff like that but even when I do it for myself it usally costs more than I thought. Little problems come up and it takes time to get it right.Sometimes parts are wrong and takes awhile just to figure out what will work.

I would suggest he try to find a shop that specializes in vintage or Hot Rods. Most general repair shops aren't going to take the time necessary to do it right or it'll just get pushed to the corner and forgotten about.

If you can find a car club, there may be an old timer looking for something to do or someone willing to help out.

Good advice from Whitedog. But another option might be to find a small 2 car garage to rent. It would also be a place to store parts while collecting em. Then start the surgery himself. If hes capable that is? Tools and shop equipment are another issue also. At $300 a month or less, that would be $3600 for a year at most. I obviously talking about a private space that da homeowner wouldnt care if project work was performed. And he would also have da confidence in what work was exactly done,. Not to mention , gain some knowledge in da process. Thats worth, probably more than da rent. Ha. Just food for thought.

A suggestion from one that's been in the restoration/street rod business for 47 years. On ANY shop you contact ask them to give at least three previous customers names and phone numbers so you can get references as to the quality of work, whether done in a timely matter, and if any "surprise" additional costs popped up. If they won't---run don't walk. Schedule a payment plan in advance and NEVER, NEVER make a deposit. If he has to operate day to day on YOUR money find the doorway. We have a 2 to 2.5 year waiting list to get in the door but REMEMBER THIS ABOVE ALL ELSE; all you have is his WORD while he has YOUR valuable truck which he can slap a mechanics lien on for outrageous payment. As to cost with you already having the engine and transmission I would think in the 3k range. Figure major parts at $250 for rear end, $200 for good STEEL spacers to widen S10 rear, $200 for driveshaft, $200 for engine/trans mounts, and I don't know what a water pump relocation kit costs but $300 for Cooling Solutions ONLY electric fan. Another $150 for aluminum radiator if old one is iffy.

He needs to do some homework first:

T-5’s come with several OD ratios, need to see what ratio he has, then pick an appropriate diff. ratio that would be appropriate considering tire size, normal trips, loads, etc.

S-10 rear axles come wider if from a 4wd truck, if that would be a consideration?

Ed

When I have had bigger projects that take a while done by a shop I agree with coilover and never give a deposit. Also check their insurance and yours. Most of the stuff my engine builder does for me is so weird that it has to be time and material. I pay him weekly or monthly whatever he wants. It keeps money coming in for him and I don't end up with an unexpected bill at the end.

Progress payments can be negotiated at the start of the project. They can be based on actual costs of labor and materials or an agreed to percentage of completion. This keeps both parties engaged and the project doesn't go to the back burner. It also gives you the opportunity to evaluate the job and make changes if required. As Mick53 stated it works for both.
Fred

Evan's been there and done that many times. I'd heed his advice. The only other option would be if your friend can find another vintage vehicle enthusiast that has the space and time to help him out.

John

Even the 4wd S10 rears are too narrow but wheels with custom offset can fix the problem of tires contacting the bed side or long studs with a 1/2" spacer will let stock wheels work.

I just had a 1955 chrysler 331 cleaned and machined. Bored out .125" (Now its a 354), crank turned .010, heads completely rebuilt with hardened valves (I supplied all the parts, except the valve seats), and cam bearings and cam installed. it cost me a bit over $1400 for the labor.

Sounds like a hemi.