Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 307 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 307 | I have a 53 half ton and removed all the rotted bed borards and hardware with the exception of the two right angle strips that run along each side of the bed as they appear to be welded in place along with two clutch head type bolts. How do I remove the two angle strips? I had purchased new hardward and bed boards from Classis Trucks some years ago and finally getting around to the project. I plan on installing the new boards without removing the bed as I have limited space to work. Thanks for the advice. Scott | | | | | Joined: Apr 2017 Posts: 230 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2017 Posts: 230 | Scott,
The side strips are spot welded in place. You will need to drill out the spot welds. Then, when you replace the strips, you will then be able to plug weld the new strips in place, through the holes you drilled. If you have a spot welder, you can just fill the holes and spot weld the strips on. If the tongs of the spot welder aren’t long enough, you can buy copper rods and make new ones that will work.
You can also use small carriage bolts to bolt it on.
Mike
1940 Chevy 1/2 Ton presently... Almost done 1940 Chevy Business Coupe... In pieces
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 307 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 307 | Mike, thanks. I will need to locate the spot welds obviously. I don't weld nor do I have spot welder so I think carriage bolts will be a great option. Thanks again for the advice. Scott | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 10,997 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 10,997 | A little sanding will reveal where the spot welds are. Or you can gently pry the angle strip away from the bedside and drill where the strip stays attached. But a cleaner look would be to remove the spot welds with a spot weld cutter from the angle strip side (don't drill all the way thru the bedside), then put your carriage bolt holes on an evenly spaced pattern. The factory spot welds probably won't be evenly spaced. Or if you want a more original look, have someone weld the angle strips on for you. You might even find a fellow Stovebolter in your neighborhood who'd be willing to help.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2017 Posts: 230 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2017 Posts: 230 | Scott,
Keven makes a good point on locating the spot welds... about gently prying at the angle strip. Careful not to warp the side at the point of the weld. You might have trouble with the new angle strip laying flat. Sanding and drilling is a good idea.
Mike
1940 Chevy 1/2 Ton presently... Almost done 1940 Chevy Business Coupe... In pieces
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 307 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 307 | Guys, because I am not doing a complete restoration I have decided to clean and repaint them and use again as opose to removing them. Thanks, Scott | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 10,997 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 10,997 | Probably the best approach as long as they aren't badly rusted. Mine were about half gone.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 1,438 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 1,438 | Mar-K has something they call Angle Covers. You might take a look at that as an option too.
Dennis
40 Chevy 1/2 ton
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 307 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 307 | Mar- K? what is that? Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 | [LINK] they make replacement parts for truck beds.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 119 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 119 | Is there a way that you can install the new boards without removing the angle side strips?
Maybe I missed the reason you want to remove and replace those strips. That is a lot of work. And it takes attention to detail to re-install them at the correct height.
About 2 months ago we installed new floorboards in a ‘49 3100 with the bed on the truck. We installed the outer boards first by sliding the outer edge outwards under the strips. We then worked towards the center installing the remaining boards and divider strips.
Rusty
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 | I see no reason why the angle strips need to be removed, as replacement bedsides are sold with the angle strips spot welded on. Replacement Bedside
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | |
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