BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,292 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | Time to change oil in 261, solid lifter motor. Also ZDDP, Valvolene racing oil contains ZDDP but pricey! | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 240 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 240 | Check the chemical makeup in STP, it should have what you need to protect your motor, and it is available everywhere.
You Learn more Listening than Talking
| | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 89 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 89 | I sometimes add a 1/2 quart of Shell Rotella when changing oil in my 235 (1962). Those solid lifters seem to be fine with it. Also, Hemmings sells ZDDP laced motor oil although I have never used it. | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,609 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,609 | I have had excellent luck with Brad Penn, now called Penn grade 1.
Mike
| | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,915 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,915 | Because STP viscosity is so much heavier than motor oil, I only add it to a warm, running engine slowly so that it's dispersed into the pan evenly. | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,209 Moderator, Electrical Bay | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,209 | Valvoline VR-1 is what I've used. It is less expensive than others, available everywhere and you can still get it in straight 30 weight. In the 235/261 you don't have the same things working against you as you will in a racing engine, you know...
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 | Penn Grade, VR-1, Driven, all very good oils. Rotella, also a good choice. STP, not so much, read up on it and you won't ever use again. Race engine need extra protection due to heavy valve springs, yours doesn't. Go to your local GM dealer and see if they have EOS, an over the counter oil supplement, add a 1/2 can to any oil you like. Lucas sells a similar product that works well. Your valve spring fully compressed are still likely less pressure then some racing springs uncompressed. Quality products don't come cheap!
Last edited by Joe H; 01/30/2021 3:14 PM.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 | I use vr1 and like it but someone on here turned me on to 15w40 diesel oil which I already use in my tow truck. Its already in my 63 305e and will be in my 261 next go around. Tractor Supply has it cheap online in 10qt jugs. High zinc to boot.  | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 3,436 Moderator | Moderator Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 3,436 | Yep! Rotella 15w40. When bought a new 2000 F-250 with the 7.3 diesel. First oil change I went and got a 55 gallon drum of it from Sam's club. Use it in everything except the air compressor and the newer cars that require synthetic. I believe I am on the third drum in almost 21 years.
The old 7.3 is still pulling good!, But rust, is another topic. Don 1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck"The Flag Pole"In the Stovebolt Gallery'46 2-Ton grain truck | '50 2-ton flatbed | '54 Pontiac Straight Eight | '54 Plymouth Belvidere | '70 American LaFrance pumper fire truck | '76 Triumph TR-6 Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most! | | | | Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 | Joe H That EOS was good assembly lube but I dont think GM has it anymore,friends used to use STP but it is such a dirt catcher and hard to get off of stuff. Have learned hhow to buy zddp at the FLAPS one of my oldies uses some oil so just add 2 oz. when Iput in a quart so far all lobes are on duty !! | | |
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