first question: I recently rebuilt a 292 and transplanted it into my 1954 Chevy 3100 - stayed with a mechanical fan, and staying with a manual 4-sp transmission (so using the bellhousing/crossmember mounting).
The mechanical now fan sits fairly low on the radiator (as in a 18" flex fan hangs below the radiator a couple inches), which I assume is not great for air flow through the radiator. I can drop the radiator down a couple inches and pretty much reduce any overhang. Fan is about 1" or a little less from the face of the radiator.
Should I be using a shroud? most stock/aftermarket shrouds I'm betting wouldn't fit as the fan isn't centered, but there are the "universal half shrouds"
second question Regarding the stock 1954 chevy temperature gauge, is is just marked as "C" and "H" with a few hash marks between... anyone have an idea on how these hash marks relate to a number for the temperature? The same as the earlier models (47-53)?
Hi G, You have the option of a shroud or an electric fan with thermostat...at least those are two options you have. Others may suggest different alternatives. As for that temp gauge, middle should be around 160 or so, but I'd suggest using some sort of thermometer on the engine to give you a more accurate point of reference.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
If fan blade OD is within the radiator fins and you have it at 1" from rad, that should be OK. No one can tell you if you need a shroud except your temp gauge. Drive it and you will know when summer comes. The earlier temp gauges say 100 and 212 on them with a 180 middle. Some say 100 and 220 with 180 middle. I don't think much changed regarding motor and cooling system in 54 except the cap went form 0 to 4 lb. 4 lb allows a higher boiling point. The radiators are the same. Same middle temp.
The 54-early 55 "original" gauge is just "C" and "H". I would figure that is 100-220 with 180 middle. Close enough for Government work.
Now for reality: Your motor came out in the 60's. Has a different sender and gauge. Electric not mechanical. 12V. 7-13 Lb rad caps, different radiator and cooling system....and as you have found out with the motor swap, it sits in a different spot relative to a 54 radiator location. So all the more reason to do your best and wait and see. Nothing bad will happen.
Study before lowering radiator. Could be hose clearance/routing issues or air bubble issues. I say, could be.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
I have a 292 in my 48 3600. I am running a 6 blade, 15" or 16" fan, which moves quite a bit of air. no shroud. I did lower my radiator a few inches. I do not have any over heating problems. Just be aware the temperature probe on the 292 is in the head beside an exhaust port. Even with a 180* thermostat, my temp gauge reads 210 all the time, 230 if I work it hard. I did put an aftermarket temp gauge in because the original temp sensor was not long enough to reach. Jon
I have a 292 in my 48 3600. I am running a 6 blade, 15" or 16" fan, which moves quite a bit of air. no shroud. I did lower my radiator a few inches.
Just be aware the temperature probe on the 292 is in the head beside an exhaust port. Even with a 180* thermostat, my temp gauge reads 210 all the time, 230 if I work it hard. I did put an aftermarket temp gauge in because the original temp sensor was not long enough to reach. Jon
I was thinking of moving to a slightly smaller fan compared to the 18" fan that's on it now, to make sure the fan blades stay behind the radiator and doesn't hand below. Not all 292's have the temp gauge in the head. I have mine run to the water neck/thermostat housing, no spot on the head for it. I had a though of putting in an aftermarket secondary gauge as a double check.
Thanks, not sure how much it helps, the type of flex fan I have to run doesn't move as much air as I would like. With a/c on, it tends to heat up if idling for a long periods, it does cool right off when moving again. I figured it can't hurt. With some 16 gauge sheet metal, a few tools, and a few cold winter months, one can build anything.
There's no law that says the fan has to be mounted to the water pump shaft. With a little creative fabrication and a couple of pillow blocks and a piece of round stock you could center the fan on the radiator and run a short belt to a 2-sheave pulley on the water pump. Just thinking outside the box a little! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Jerry, maybe what is needed is an old evaporative cooler tied to the front. Kind of like this, but I haven't figured out the extension cord part yet...
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Or maybe hang one of these in front of the radiator. But they only help in dry climates. At least you wouldn't have to upgrade the front springs.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Jon, that swamp cooler needs a bicycle chain drive and a set of pedals for your passenger to crank- - - - -make 'em earn the privelege of getting to ride with you! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
