The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Replace a 216 motor with a 235

I currently have a 1946 1/2 ton AK. It has a 216 ci with a 3 speed on the floor. The motor has some scary noises and it has a bad rear main leak that I have not been able to resolve. I cannot get the truck over 45 mph without the motor breaking down. My goal is make my truck dependable and safe at a max speed of 55 mph so I can take it to shows.

I recently acquired a low mileage 235 ci from a 1957 Chevy 210(car). I have the motor mounted on a test run stand in my shop. It runs unbelievable. Good compression with no noises, no smoke, no leaks. I let it run for an hour and it maintains 180 degrees with 25 lbs oil pressure.

My plans are the replace the current 216 with this 235 but I have questions that I hope someone can help me with. First obstacle is the 235 motor from the 1957 Chevy car came with an automatic transmission. Will the fly wheel, bell housing, clutch, pressure plate, etc from the 216 work with this 235? Are the current motor mounts compatible with the 235?

If I make this swap I'd like to change the truck from 6 volt to 12 volt. Will the 12 volt starter from the 1957 car work with the fly wheel/bell housing from the 216?

Any information about what I might be up against would be greatly appreciated.

Use the 6 volt starter with the 216 flywheel and bellhousing. The tooth count on the flywheels is specific to each of the two different starters, and won't interchange. The 6 volt starter will be just fine living in a 12 volt environment, as long as you aren't grinding on it for long periods of time trying to get started.

I'll have to let those familiar with the car motor mounts answer that for sure, but- Your 216 mounts on the plate that sticks out below the timing cover, right? Does the car 235 have holes drilled in that plate? If not, you'd need to drill some holes, or swap that plate (which requires pulling the cam, if I'm not mistaken).

Does anybody know if the car crankshafts accept a pilot bushing for a manual trans? I would guess that all the crankshafts are the same, but I'd love confirmation from someone who actually knows.

So the 216 flywheel and bell housing with match up with the 235?

Thanks about the info on the starter.

And yes, the 216 mounts on the plate below the timing cover

fred c, I swaped the 216 in my '40 for a '54 235 last year . I used the 216 bell housing and every thing inside it . kept the original 6v starter. (it had already been running 12v for the past 20yrs)

You will find the '57 235 will need an adaptor plate to lift the water pump (search on this forum for it) to a proper operational height.

My '54 engine already had the front mount , you will have to do some changes .

Edit: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread.../re-chev-1100-australia.html#Post1383133

will it make a difference that my 235 came from a car?

I just gave the water pump adaptor info to another member. LINK

My ‘52 3100 Has a ‘59 235 in it from a car with hydraulic lifters. I installed the adaptor plate from fellow member Pre 68 Dave. You'll also need to install your
water pump, fan and harmonic balancer if the 235 pulley (fan belt) is a different size.

The 235 probably won't have the holes in the front plate for the engine mount. It's way easier to install two holes than to it is pull the distributor, rocker shafts, pushrods, timing cover, oil pan, and camshaft... then put it all back together. I dropped the motor in to align on the rear mounts, then dropped the front end on a fresh mount. The hole locations in the front plate then all line up from the bottom.

The 235 probably won't have the holes in the front plate for the engine mount. It's way easier to install two holes than to it is pull the distributor, rocker shafts, pushrods, timing cover, oil pan, and camshaft... then put it all back together. I dropped the motor in to align on the rear mounts, then dropped the front end on a fresh mount. The hole locations in the front plate then all line up from the bottom.

thanks everyone for the help. Looks like I need two changes. Front motor mount and water pump relocation. EchoBravoSierra asked the question "Does anybody know if the car crankshafts accept a pilot bushing for a manual trans?" Considering that my 235 is a car engine, an answer to this would be great.

Also, not only is it a car engine, but it also came from the factor with an automatic transmission

This thread discusses using a Powerglide's 235 engine with a manual transmission - the bushing number is given.

However, there is no conclusion on the fit of that bushing?

Here is another thread about that bushing.

It would be nice to hear from someone who has done this?

Slightly off-topic, but the V8's that came originally with Powerglide transmissions also have the oddball counterbore. Of course, if either engine has ever had a "crankshaft kit" installed, all bets are off! There's no telling which core crankshaft was used for regrinding.
Jerry

The 57 motor is a good one to have. Hydraulic lifters, neoprene rear main seal, 848 head, uses precision bearings so no shims required or needed like the 55 and earlier motors. The timing cover will not have the two holes unless someone has already swapped in a timing plate that does, or drilled them. 55 was the last year for two different 235 motors (One for stick motors and one for automatic motors). All 57 cars got the same 6 motor regardless of what trans came behind it so yep, you can install a pilot bushing in the crank no problem. Just use a good one, preferably one made of oilite or similar material. The cheap bushings are not bronze, and some of the bronze bushings are not oilite type impregnated bushings so snoop around and pay a few extra dollars and get a good version. Also, don't grease the id of the bushing. It seals the bronze and the pores and prevents the oil from weeping out and lubing the tip of the transmission input shaft.

thanks you all very much. I'm cutting and paste all this info into one document so I don't loose it.