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| | | | Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 | I'm not to familiar with shaved door handles.
Are bear claw latches necessary?
Where do you mount the popper?
It is all electrical?
Thanks
Colin | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 34 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 34 | Colin, you don't have to use bear claw latches if yours latches are in good shape. The popper's are mounted inside the door with a cable or wire to the door latch. And yes they are electrical.. A lot of shops sell the door kits but here are two i found www.autoloc.com and www.electric-life.com Hope this helps Wayne | | | | | Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 | Thanks Wayne,
Lots of info on the net of putting them in, but hardly any mention of the little things (the obvious maybe?).
Are power locks a necessity then? Seems like they would have to be in order to not defeat the purpose.
Thanks
Colin | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 191 | Usually you would disable the locking mechanism. Personally I'd stay away from autoloc's and look into Spal's if you want to use solenoids. Reason being I've seen a number of autoloc's rusted out after 2 years or so.
As an alternative look into actuators to open the locks instead of solenoids. They seem to work a lot smoother and tend to be less bulky.
But that's just my opinion after having installed both types in a number of different type applications. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 34 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 34 | colin you can contact my brother Todd he lives in edmonton he can help you with all your questions. He has a car in his shop right now that he has shaved the handels on, maybe you can give him a visit and see what your up against. contact me and I will give you his number.
Greg.
it's not how much time you spend on it, it's how you spend your time with it
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