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Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 2
D
Moderated
Moderated
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 2
Bolters,
I have a 1950 GMC 1/2 ton recently restored to factory suspension.
I would like to update the suspension to soften up on my aging back but without lowering it or otherwise changing the original stance of the truck.

Any ideas?


Greg Ellis
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,177
Red dot, center of chest ...
Red dot, center of chest ...
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,177
My '48 is lowered four inches, so not exactly what you want, but, with the original rear springs, a monoleaf in the front (from Patricks) and gas shocks all the way around, the ride is far from smooth. I think the only way you're going to make these trucks ride smoothly (because that's not what they were designed for) is to change the front and rear for modern suspensions. That's gonna cost you a chuck on change.


Paul Schmehl CI 6
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Joined: Feb 2000
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J
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,208
I have custom made spring from Detroit Spring under my '37. It sets lower then stock, but thats what I asked for. They will make them however you want. It wasn't cheap, but it sure rides a heck of a lot better.

Adding Teflon liner between each leaf helps, but if the spring rate is high, it will still ride rough. '37 trucks had heavy spring rates for some reason, the truck is fairly light weight, less then your '50, yet the spring rate was about twice as much. Mine are less then half of what GM installed. If you go to the GM Heritage site, https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html and look at your '50 , on page 72 is the front spring information. Look at Average Rate of Deflection, this is the spring rating. It take 315 lbs to compress the spring 1", the higher the number, the more weight the truck can carry. You maybe able to swap springs from another year if the are softer and have the same length and width, just look at some other years at the Heritage Center files.

So when shopping for springs, if the seller cannot give you the spring rate, keep on looking, you could end up with heavier then you got now!

Last edited by Joe H; 10/13/2020 1:53 PM.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,778
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Contact "Coilover" on this site once you make a few more posts and you have access to the private message function. He owns a hotrod shop in Texas and they have a lot of experience with converting stovebolts to independent front suspension without giving them a "hound dog that just encountered a skunk" appearance. If you've ever seen a skunked dog rubbing his nose in the dirt and plowing a furrow a hundred yards long, you'll know what I mean! The conversion involves fabricating a set of riser plates that moves the independent suspension crossmember down in relation to the frame, resulting in a "normal" ride height.
Jerry


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Joined: May 2009
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T
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 85
I have found tires make a big difference in the ride of the truck, if you are running an old style tire like 6 ply's try something like a 85 series car tire. Keep the pressure down around 28 or 30 lbs. be aware it makes the steering very hard to turn.
You might also try removing one or two leaves from each spring. This will lower the truck a little, so you may have to shim under the spring to maintain the height you want.
Also don't use some super heavy duty shocks, stick with regular garden variety light duty units.


1949 3100
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,385
T
Crusty Old Sarge
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,385
The addition of Teflon liners between the leafs in the spring packs will allow them to move freer and soften the ride. I found a bulk length at Speedway and cut to fit my application (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Leaf-Spring-Liner-with-Lip-2-Inch,39861.html). As mentioned prior you can remove 1 or 2 leafs, you would need to add a spacer of equal thickness to make up for removal and maintain the stock ride height. Remember that your U-bolts and spring center bolts should be replaced as well.

Last edited by TUTS 59; 10/23/2020 12:01 PM.

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