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| | | Forums66 Topics128,090 Posts1,056,022 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 128 | Okay I may be making this up... but can anyone suggest a solution to my need for a lower profile fan motor or a remote located fan? I'm not 100% sure but I think that with the engine where it is in my truck that I'm not going to be able to use the stock heater core and fan motor setup because I think the motor will hit the valve cover. If I had a fan motor that was about 1"-2" shallower I don't think it'd be a problem. The other option I have is to convert to an all-in-one heater/ac/defrost aftermarket unit that slips nicely under the dash... and only costs about $1200, I lose all originality (pull knob controls: http://laanderud.com/65chevy/110506/image_28.html ) for this hard to get A/C option on the truck. Plus I like the look of the heater core box hanging off the firewall... others don't. The other option would be to move the fan inside the firewall and put ductwork up through the firewall into the heater core box. Here's are pictures of what I'm talking about: http://laanderud.com/65chevy/120306/image_6.html http://laanderud.com/65chevy/042207/image_1.html Plus I got ahead of myself and already rebuilt and painted the unit thinking it wouldn't be a problem... new heater core + new fan motor. Sometimes customizing is fun, other time's it's a pain in the ***. Lee | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Lee,
Whoa....what a monster motor..a elephant motor. I have never seen this swap before, but it sure seems like it is sitting VERY high in the engine compartment.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Looks like you could drop the engine a bit. Relocate the tranny mount somehow. But it looks like you have room for that heater motor. Stick the motor in there and see how it fits. Are you just mocking up the engine. If so drop it if you can. Good luck.
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 128 | Big Chevy, The engine is about where it needs to be. I have 1/4" header clearance and if we drop it any further I have to make a pretty drastic cut in the front crossmember for the header down tubes. We were able to slit the back side, heat up the cut, overlap the top and beat the hell out of the crossmember. The crossmember is now a pretty nice U shape. Really all we accomplished was dropping the flat engine mount flat part about 2".
The pictures may not show the real representation of the engine location... we had two other resto-rod guys stop by and say the engine is where it needs to be. Sure it'd be nice to drop it another inch or two, but we'd have to notch and box the frame rails, and notch and box the front cross member. Still have the "do it right the first time" mentality and am comfortable with where it is.
The pictures with the engine in with the fenders still on is a mock up... the engine is sitting on pieces of wood. I believe the engine is lower than in those pictures.
Thanks.
Lee | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | And now for something completely different..... Nice engine, what size? I was considering an old style Hemi a few years ago. I know they are big, but it looks to me like it is too high too.
There is no such thing as the "right placement". What counts is you don't drag your oil pan on the ground, the hood shuts, the drive shaft angles can be sorted out, and it looks like it belongs. I would consider different headers or cast iron exhaust manifolds if they are your problem. Also consider remaking the front cross member to fit the engine in so it looks like it belongs there. Right now I don't think it looks like it belongs there. Take a look at the engine swap I am doing on my 48, it is different, big, and fits nicely with lots of measuring ans trial fitting.
Good Luck, Grigg | | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 1,703 | LeeA , Just a thought , but i bought the heater/defrost assembly from chevy duty , Item # 68-991A cost was 159.95 it is a small inside mounted unit that does not intrude into the engine compartment at all and fits nicely outta site and ouuta the way up under the dash all that extends into the engine compartment is the heater lines . Just a thought . If wanted I could send you pics of the mounted unit . | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 128 | Grigg - It's a 331. It must be the picture angles, because in person at most I'd want to drop it would be 1"-2". Here's a picture of where it sits right now: http://laanderud.com/65chevy/042207/image_7.html The only people that say it sits too high are the people who area looking at the pictures online, everyone who sees it in person says it looks like it's where it needs to be. If you're looking at the pictures with fenders, the engine is sitting on 3" worth of wood, it's actually now sitting about 2"-2.5" lower. The transmission is on the engine and it's basically a straight shot to the opening for the carrier bearing. SW Radical - Thanks, that looks like it might work too. I'd be interested in seeing your pictures if it's not too much of a problem. Lee | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 240 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 240 | What about fabing up some bracket that would angle the heater towards the fender well a little, it would still look somewhat original.
You Learn more Listening than Talking
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