I've been dismantling the '46 and making a list of needed parts. There's a 2" x 8" x 8' support beam between the frame and the flatbed frame that is cut were it goes over the notch in the frame. Does anyone know what kind of wood is best to use for this? I think I'm going to use Siberian Larch wood for the bed but I can only find it in 5 1/2" wide stock. I've located treated yellow pine, which I think is what they used in the original bed. Would that be strong enough for this application?
Also anyone know where I can get the insulation that goes around the inside track of the window glass?
It also has this crazy longhorn vinyl on the seat, but I doubt it was original, see photo.
Use White Oak for the 2x8 supporting the bed. I would use yellow Pine or White Oak for the bed surface. I would not use treated lumber, but if you do be sure to use the correct hardware. Treated lumber has chemicals in it that are corrosive to steel and zinc plated fasteners.
If you're talking about the rubber around the outside of the window, Jim Carter lists it, but is on backorder right now. Window seal
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thanks for the info. Should the White Oak be treated or finished with any sort of preservative? I was going to use Siberian Larch for the bed. From what I'm reading it's pretty impervious to pretty much anything. I'll have to check on it's reaction to the hardware.
I meant the material on the inside of the window channels.
Jim Carter lists that too, also on backorder. 1934-1946 Window Channel Chevrolet and GMC Pickup Truck Item # WI201
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Looks like I'll be dealing with Mr. Carter a lot, and waiting a lot. lol. I've found some of what I need at the Chevy's of the 40s too. After going over the truck, now that I have it back, I'm pretty sure I'm going to take it down to the frame and do a complete restoration. Removing all the body panels will make the 235 installation a lot easier. I've got to remove the flatbed to replace the wood support anyway so I might as well take everything else off and do it right. That way I can replace all the nuts and bolts, body mounts and other rubber parts as needed. I was originally thinking about replacing the suspension but since I probably won't be driving it more that 20 miles in any direction at this point I may just get rebuild kits for the knee shocks and see how it goes. There are only a couple small dents in the one fender that should hammer out easily and a little dent in the cab near the back window. I'm not sure how my Homeowner's Association feels about me painting the body parts in the driveway but as the old saying goes it's easier to get forgiveness than permission. :-)
