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| | | | Joined: Aug 2020 Posts: 3 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2020 Posts: 3 | Hi all, can’t figure out why my choke cable won’t open or close choke plate, this on a one barrel Rochester, I can open and close choke plate using my finger I’ve not had this carb apart. Pretty sure I have connected cable the right way. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2019 Posts: 1,003 | Chuckle... chuckle... this is atad bit funny, but all in all we alp started somewhere.. So that being said, we dont have enough info on the application etc. But if i had to guess, ill give you something to look at anyhow. Undo the choke cable from the carb. Does the cable move free? Does the choke plate move free? If either answer is , no, fix either or. If both answers are yes, you have it hooked up wrong. Open choke all the way in the carb, push choke cable in and hook it up to the carb. Pull it. Does the choke work? Let us know what you found.  | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,718 Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters | | Moderator: 60-66 Trucks; North Eastern Bolters Joined: May 2007 Posts: 1,718 | Dane,
What are you working with (yr, engine, carb, air cleaner). This is an easy mechanical system to fix. Just give us a little bit more info. Other things to consider in the meantime:
Tech is to depress throttle as you pull the cable. It allows the choke cable to miss the throttle linkage.
Cable could be crimped somewhere along the route.
In my case the eye that the cable passes through at the carb hits the underside of my air cleaner and does not allow the cable to move freely.
Maybe something else, but no doubt easy to fix.
HB
Last edited by Hambone; 09/08/2020 2:11 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 693 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 693 | In addition to the possibility of a crimped cable and some sort of mechanical interference, check for corrosion anywhere along the length of the cable. It doesn't take much too rust inside the sheath for the wire to bind up... If you find this is the case, you can pull out the wire, coat it with light grease and re-insert. It should then operate freely. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | If tomctomc is correct, you might want to remove the cable-assembly and soak it in kerosene for a day or two? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | I have had good luck with spraying the outer cable sheath with penetrating oil. It is nothing more than tightly wound spring steel and the penetrating oil goes right through it to the cable wire inside.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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