Well I don’t necessarily think it’s a replacement head. Just was thinking maybe it could be since the casting numbers are missing. But no worries! I spent some time and 10 cans of carb cleaner and cleaned up the valve train and top of the head of all the sludge and 70 years of buildup. I found the casting numbers 3835409
head casting 3835409 is used in part # 3835408 for 1949 engines and listed as replacement head for all engines 41-49 216 and 235 engines as of 1949, in 1950 a newer replacement head is listed in place. This head has non-45 degree exhaust valves, compatible if swapping whole head assembly w/ valves This head has 14 mm spark plugs, but may have been machined for 10 mm spark plugs in early years, not sure.
Ok on to the next step with this new engine! Cleaned the valve train oil has been changed the fuel pump is working there’s spark but no start! This engine has a carter w-1 carburetor on it I have a Rochester on the original engine. It is my understanding that the w-1 isn’t the best carb ! Is that correct? I think in in need of a carb rebuild kit so what carb should I be rebuilding? The Rochester or the carter.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I’m not 100% sure of anything!!! Maybe it was just a illusion but I thought I saw spark I checked again this morning there’s no spark everything looks like it’s hooked up properly so maybe bad coil or condenser? Either way it turns over great going to get a compression tester to check the compression and order a new ignition system from Langdon’s going to get a carb kit to but still not sure if I should rebuild the carter of the Rochester? Any opinions on that ?
No spark or questionable spark, I always clean the points with a points file, (available at NAPA or anywhere parts are sold), and then set them to factory specs. If the distributor has not been moved in recent history, I would leave the timing alone to see if the engine would run. If spark is good but no fire, I would prime the carb with a couple tablespoons of gas right down the throat (like Mike said ^), close the choke and crank. IF spark is bad, then I would go for new parts.
Last edited by sweepleader; 07/19/201912:00 PM.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
I pulled the Rochester off the seized engine this evening to clean it up and check out its condition this was under it attached to the manifold. What is it ?
It seems the Rochester carb from the 50 is probably not any good the throttle shaft is seized in the carb body. I’ve had it soaking in mineral spirits in my parts cleaner since yesterday. I will probably give it a few more days before I give up on. The carter also is nearly seized the throttle shaft and the choke are very stiff I may be able to get them freed up thou. If I have to get a new carb it seems there’s plenty of options available but I’m wondering what you guys that have had to replace yours have tried
If it was my carb, I would be tapping on the shaft to try to get it to move. That is exactly what I had to do with the carb on my '62 when I let it sit long enough for the mice to build a nest. I would pull the throttle plate if I could get at the screws to grind the back end off, they are peened to prevent them falling into the engine. I would tap the shaft endwise and sideways all around and both ends. The rust/corrosion usually yields to physical force but of course so do the shaft and the bore it goes through, use caution.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
The bore is exactly what I was worried about ! If it’s corroded so bad I can’t move it at all the bore is already going to be damaged. I don’t have a drill press good enough to drill for bushings. Maybe it’s time to acquire a new pedestal drill press!!
Just because it is stuck does not mean that automatically the bore is bad. It could be stuck in one small place and the rest could be fine. Check it out before you plan on it being bad.
The governor limited the top engine speed to something like 3500 or 4000 rpm to prevent running it too fast with a very deep rear end gear. Check the base of the distributor for the vacuum control that feeds the servo under the carb. The governor is really not needed if you watch the engine speed, something that employees driving someone else's truck and paid by the load tend to do poorly at. The governor throttle plate is visible in the pictures, it is independent of the manual throttle in the carb.
Last edited by sweepleader; 07/19/20197:15 PM.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
The throttle plate on the governor is free too ! However there is nothing attached to it. I will take a better look at the distributor to see if there’s anything extra on it !
Well after a long soak in mineral spirits then about an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner I was able to free the throttle shaft on the Rochester the whole thing is disassembled except 1 problem has arose. The jet is not coming out it is loose it just turns so it seems the threads are torn loose from the float bowl body. I don’t think there’s a repair for that is there ? Guess I’ll start working on the carter tomorrow see what I can do with that one. What is the typical response time for langdons ? I put an email in last Wednesday about getting an hei ignition system from him and still haven’t gotten a reply. I guess I’ll try again Monday if I haven’t heard from him by then. I do believe he is located in my area but I can’t tell if there’s a storefront or if he’s just online
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Now would be a good time to remove the valve cover, perhaps you already did, to oil all the valve stems and push down on them to make sure they are not stuck before you try to turn the engine over. If they are stuck, pushrods will be bent.
If stuck, soaking and gentle tapping will help, however, if the mice have been helping you out, it might take some gentle heating.
Good luck.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
After looking on the online diagram of the Rochester b I discovered I was wrong it isn’t the jet that was stuck it was the guide for the spring of the pump discharge ball I did get it removed but it is broken and I don’t see anywhere I can get a replacement. I’m going to email mikes carburetor parts if I can’t locate one because it seems like that’s the only thing holding me back from rebuilding the B. The power has been out at my place since yesterday from storms so I didn’t get anywhere on the carter today hopefully tomorrow!
Things are moving slowly because of my work schedule and other obligations. I’m working on getting the engine stripped down to clean it and paint it. I’m thinking maybe I should replace the freeze plugs as they are at the least very old. Looks like the are available at many places who has had the best luck with what plugs ? Also I’m wondering if the governor is necessary? Can I remove it and be ok ? Or should I clean it up and reinstall it.
Mike- I’m not sure if it works or not. The butterfly moves freely. Not sure the condition of the inner workings. I guess I can just clean it up and reinstall it. Thanks for the input !!
It’s been a while since I’ve worked on the 50 but I have been collecting parts. Found out I’m missing the plug seals for the push rod cover. They were not included in the gasket set I bought for it. Where can I find the seals without buying another gasket set ? Maybe I haven’t looked hard enough but I can’t find them available separately. Thanks Dan
