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#137433 03/11/2007 2:32 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
Has anyone seen or used the "NEW" kit from NoLimit? It is supposed to be a bolt in rack and pinion unit that works with out clearence issues.


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
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O
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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I haven't and won't use it.

If you do some searching here you'll find several threads on the subject. My feeling is rack and pinion on a straight axle is not a good choice.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I don't like the idea either. You got a questionable connection from the column to the rack, plus it would add alot of extra unsprung weight to an already heavy front axle.
Besides, REAL trucks don't have power steering! grin


Bill Burmeister
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 452
H
Shop Shark
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Just a thought for anyone who wants to try.... I know there is a geometry issue using standard R+P on a straight-axle, mounted to the cross-member (fixed to the frame). If a center-action rack were used, with a cross-link to the tie-rod, would the geometry be much different than that of a modern truck with normal power steering?

I ask as I have changed the rack on my Z24, and that rack has the tie-rods attached to the center, rather than the ends.


Current fleet (subject to change w/o notice)
\'49 GMC 3/4-Ton , 60 Austin Healey Frog-eye Sprite (some assembly required), 2011 Dodge Avenger, 2015 Jeep Cherokee. No, they don't all run.
My other ride is a (B737)no, (B767)no, A320.... Update... was Embraer E190, now Boeing B787.

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L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Actually, the center mount type tie rods will make the problem worse. What happens is the toe will change as the suspension moves up and down. That's why a rack, either regular or center mount, would have to be solid mounted to the axle. Either way, the safety would be marginal at best and I don't believe that there will be any gains in handling, especially wiht the added weight on the axle.


Bill Burmeister
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
Not sure where this set up mounts, I believe that it bolts to the axle it's self. I tried to pull up some pic's of the install but couldn't get it to download. I only ask because I'm at this point with the frame rebuild. Keep in mind that I have a drop front axle (3")and a sway bar. I may use the tried and true Saginaw box.


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,109
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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another way to get power is to get the flaming river electric power setup with their new steering column. goes to manual if the power fails. ron. www.flamingriver.com


Ron, The Computer Greek
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1954 3100 Chevy truck
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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From what I have read and seen, the problem is with the column mounting to the rack, if its solid mounted to the axle. You will need a slip joint in the column someplace so the axle can move up and down. A slip joint wounldn't be that bad only its not a true inline slip, its more of a up and down, in and out slip, and keeping it all inline and free, worries a lot guys. There are some that make it work pretty well and are totaly happy with them.

If you mount the rack to the frame like normal modern stuff, then you have to worry about bump steer every time you see a hump in the road. There seems to be no way to get the tie-rods on the same plain as the axle and keep them there through the whole ark of the spring movement.

A better chice would be a power assisted ram clamped to the draglink like bigger trucks used. Or a power assisted gear box adapted to the original steering arms.

Just my 2 cents worth, Joe

Joined: Mar 2007
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Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
I think that no matter what the end result is it will require a lot more reading. After hearing some of the issues all of you have brought up I tend to be leaning more towards the power assist box. I have seenthis on more than a few trucks so it must work well. Thanks for the 411.


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 364
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
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Posts: 364
I installed this set-up in my Chevy '51 1/2 PU (since sold) it was a very easy install and it worked very well. The only problem I ever had was some ps hose leakage and that was easily repaired. There were no geometry issues and the setup was relatively light...weight was of little consequence on a truck that has a 770 lb engine.


Steve G.
--------------
1942 Chevrolet 1/2-Ton Pickup Truck

Joined: Sep 2006
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B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33
Hello All,
I purchased the rack and pinion unit from No-Limit right after they came out. Installation was pretty straight forward. The rack bolts to the straight axle with 3 u-bolts. The steering arms that came with the kit were big and beefy. The kit also had a slip steering shaft and joint. Bolted right up to my ididit steering column.

BUT (yep there is a but), I had problems with the steering shaft hitting the header on drivers side (V-8). The only solution was to cut the header apart and make it wrap around the steering shaft. Since I'm a lazy SOB, and I didn't want to cut my header apart, I took off the rack and pinion and went back to regular power steering. I believe the rack and pinion would be great for a straight six. It would be another alternative for someone who wanted to retain the straight axle.

Big Mike

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 87
R
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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there are cars turning up in junkyards now here in england with factory fitted electric powere coloumns quiet a few are finding there way onto rods etc

i may well go this route if pas is actually needed??

i also considered an old lincoln pas box i have one allready here would that be an option?

Joined: Jun 2005
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N
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 887
Another thing to consider is whether you need power steering at all. I've been debating this for a while and right now am leaning towards a reversed corvair manual steering box and the stock column. That'll keep the stock look and reduce the number of turns lock-to-lock.


'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
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B
Shop Shark
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Most Corvair boxes are aluminum (I think the early ones were cast iron). I've reversed some Corvair boxes for local rodders and would consider the aluminum ones I've worked on to be too light duty for a pickup. I think they work fine for a T-bucket or something similar in weight though.


To be long remembered as he's cruising in
The Passing Lane
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
This truck will be just that a truck. It will pull an occasional trailer and haul the Harley once in a while. The point is that it will be a daily driver and expected to manage daily freeway as well as around town driving. Lowered with a V8 4 speed, power brakes the next move is of course power steering. I have driven it for years without it but it's time for a change.


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane

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