I want to overhaul the steering box. I think it is the original steering box but not sure. How do I remove the worm gear shaft? I have the cover loosened and raised over the shaft and the steering wheel removed. Do I have to remove the big nut at the bottom of the steering unit?
Thank you, Pre '68 Dave! We finally got it, and now we have another question. LoL
The hollow tube (not sure what it's called) that slides over the worm gear shaft... It's been cut and bent/flared at the end. We're wondering if everything is correct. My truck was produced in April 1946 so we don't know if the modification (flared end) was done at the factory, using what parts they had available post WWII, or if it's a modification made by a previous owner [and we need to get a new hollow tube].
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
The tube is called the mast jack. I have rebuilt a lot of these and never seen one flared out at the bottom like that. 1-1/2 ton use a longer steering shaft and mast jacket, maybe one of those was adapted to your box. The pitman shat adjuster looks suspicious also.
The tube as you described did not leave the factory in that condition. I have the one in the attached photos. It has surface rust but no damage to the ends. If interested send me a PM with your email address. Harold
I agree. It looks to me like someone installed it backwards. That button end needs to be on the inside and engaged with the sector shaft to set the lash. I'll bet if it's removed you'll find a slotted end for adjustment. That's supposed to be on the outside of the box.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
With any steering box, check the lower worm shaft bearing and race, when water enters the box, it sets on the lower bearings. None of these old boxes are sealed at the input shaft area under the outer tube. So if they set anywhere water seems to get inside them. As for assembly grease, Tractor supply sells a 00 grease, and John Deere corn head grease is a good choice. Most any John Deere dealer can order it, or if the sell farm equipment, they will have it in stock. Both are relative cheap. CV joint grease also works. Any grease of 00 or 000 grade will work, this type of grease will flow back in on itself. Chassis grease is to stiff, it just gets pushed out of the way never to return. A really cheap alternative is 50/50 gun grease and gear lube, but the seals must be in good working order.
@ Dave - Thank you for the correct terminology!! We see what you guys are saying now, like it should have been flipped. Makes sense because I feel like the parts were worn oddly, and I think that the tumbler-looking piece looks like it's been modified.
@ Harold - I will definitely send you a message! I would be interested in purchasing a correct mast jack (😊).
@ Joe - Thank you for the information, and the link! Hubby and I were able to visualize what you guys were talking about and it was indeed flipped! Thank you for the info on the grease, too!
This is what I'm curious about - The first piece I'm holding looks worn oddly, to me. Or is that just how they're made? There's only a small portion without the lip/groove. The second tumbler-looking piece - Original condition or modified?
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
On the AD trucks, the end of the sector shaft has a "tee" slot where the adjusting button goes. It looks like one side of the "tee" may be broken off on yours.
Here's a pic of the sector shaft with the adjusting bolt in place. Notice that there's also a shim washer under the head of the bolt. This is off my '51 truck but yours should be similar.
It may be easiest to look for an entire steering column, although you may be able to find individual parts and rebuild yours.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thank you for the info Dave, and klhansen, and for the visual. Ugh! That's what I was afraid of. I appreciate the input as both hubby and I are new at most of this.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
Joe, thank you for the tip on the water! When I got the gunk off of everything there were a lot of places where it looked like slag. Hubby said that is where the water had sat. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to make a mental note to check it from time to time once I get everything installed, and get him back on the road again. We really appreciate the information... It's things like this we wouldn't think of!
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
Keep an eye on the want ads on this site and the auction site everyone hates ( but uses ), I built my '41 steering box with almost all NOS parts after scrounging for a while. Mine drives like new.
