The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Door Glass

I am sure there is a thread or tech tip somewhere that I am missing but hopefully someone can point me in the right direction; had no luck with my own searching skills.

I am replacing glass on my '48 3800 and not really understanding the glass setting tape procedure. Can someone walk me through it? Do I need adhesive of some sort? I ordered a kit from Chevs of the 40s and have two thicknesses; which thickness goes where?

hi Aaron,
i have also seen that special tape for sale and considered getting it, but had similar questions as you did, then i decided it was probably overkill for my tastes
i used regular black friction tape, aka hockey stick tape and a dab of the same black RTV silicone i used to seal up the windshield rubber.
start with one layer, if you want it tighter put a second layer,
once it all together trim off extra

start by dry fitting the glass into the metal, make sure it fits the curves and all so that you don't have surprises, get a feel for how much gap you need to fill
decide if you want to start with 1 or 2 layers
stick the tape onto the glass
fit the taped up glass into the metal, if it looks like it will be nice and snug then take it out, put on a bit of that black rtv silicone and slide it back in
the silicone was just to try to keep the water out of the friction tape, maybe that wasn't needed

also pro tip, cover the glass with painters tape first, makes cleaning up the smeared silicone way easier, but if you have new glass everything can be cleaned off of it
-s

Glass setting tape works on friction. That's all you need. Just decide on which thickness tape you need for your application.

Pics attached are from the Tech Tip I made for AD Suburban side windows.

Aaron, please post the part number of the glass setting tape that you bought from Chevs of the 40s.

If it is original style tape, after it is fitted in place it gets "set" by "drizzling" a little light oil on its outside edges of the tape. This expands the soapstone impregnated tape and "sets" it so that the glass does not move. It also seals thge window from from leaking water.

Are there ID marks on the glass? If so, they are most likely original thickness glass.

If there are no ID markings on the glass, the glass might be replacement glass. Replacement glass might/might-not be original thickness. If the glass is not original thickness, you might need different thickness glass-setting tape. Several vendors sell different thicknesses/sizes of the original style tape.

FYI: old/original glass that is set in old/original-style setting tape can be easily removed using a thinner (I think that procedure is described in the Shop Manual). This is one of the advantages of using original style setting tape; and, this is one reason for following/using the original technique/parts/procedures.

P/N from Chevs was 60395450 and the glass is replacement glass from LMC (all of my original glass was shattered or missing when I got the truck).

Sounds like this is more of a 'check and (educated) guess and check' situation as far as thicknesses, that gives me some good next steps. Thanks for all of the info, everyone!

That thinner which you allude to from the Manual is gasoline.

That stuff is great, isn’t it? 😎

Using glass setting tape can be intimidating if you've not done it before. To get the right thickness measure the glass thickness, measure the width of the channel, subtract the glass thickness from the thickness of the channel and divide that number by 2. That is the thickness of the setting tape that you will need. I've had good luck with setting tape from Classic parts. There are several you-tube "how to" videos on the subject. I've done new glass on both vent windows of my 1954 3600. If I can do it, anyone can.

Fill the channel with black silicone, set the window in, let it cure, trim with a razor blade.
Keep it simple!

I use Permatex Ultra-black gasket maker. I guess some people call it silicone. I don't no if it is, but I do know that it holds door glass very well.
It is still possible to remove the glass and sealant should you break the glass in the future.

Great solution - thanks!

I've also used black RTV to mount window channels and side window fuzzy wipes; in both cases it held perfectly.

I'm a little late to this party, but I'll put in my 2 cents. If you use silicone use an automotive silicone that doesn't contain acetic acid ((the stuff that smells like vinegar). This can cause the channel to quickly rust. We learned this the hard way when silicone first came out and we used it extensively in the glass shop. Also, if you use silicone, urethane or even body putty and epoxies have been used, use something (razorblade wrappers, setting tape, match book cardboard etc.) at each end to keep the glass centered in the channel until the adhesive sets up. If the channel is cocked it can put the glass in a bind and cause breakage. Also, with rubber setting tape, SOP was to smear some motor oil on it and warm it with a propane torch or heat gun to soften it letting it stretch if necessary. The oil will swell the rubber giving a good snug fit. Hopefully this helps someone. John

Follow-up question that I can't seem to find an answer on here either (again, it's probably there but I'm too dumb to find it): what is the best way to mount/install the door glass run? Down in the door is easy since it slide into the track. Around the window frame is a different story. I do not have the inner window trim currently; does that hold it in?

I used the setting tape and it was very difficult to get it set correctly. After completing the install I took a 60 mile road trip. 10 miles in the window cracked from one corner to the next. I guess I had it under too much tension and the movement of me bouncing down the road was too much for. Next time I replace the glass I will either purchase the glass with the channel already installed or go the silicone/gasket maker route. This technology was not available when these windows were originally installed.