The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop dropped axle anyone?

I'm running monoleafs on the front of my '53 3100 right now and am not happy with the harshness of the ride. I'm thinking of going with a dropped axle (either from CPP, or maybe Speedway, or (?) and my stock front springs with 3 leafs removed. I don't want to go IFS (been there, done that) because I want this to be a 50's style mild custom truck, using parts available to that era. Any thoughts or experiences on this set-up?

Ive got a pair of mono-leafs im scrapping too. Went with a 4" axle from MOR-DROP,,its the only way to go,,short of butchering the front of your truck,,which i refuse to do.
Marty

I ran 4 inch dropped axle with 2 leafs removed from each spring pack in my 48 3100 for a few years. It had a nice stance to it and it drove OK with the stock 6 and running gear. I'm putting a V-8 in it now and I'm in the process of swapping over to a Mustang II for better handling, steering, brakes, etc.

-Rich

As RSG2506 says...the dropped axle is just fine with the 6 cyl. and stock steering,,,with the muscrapII you lose your stock steering column,brakes,etc.....(how do you re-mount the radiator,engine,fenders,,etc,,,)
Dont know about you,,,but im all for the old school stuff!!!

Please dont cut your truck up
Marty

its all a matter of what style you want, if you want it on the ground use a mustang II you dont have to remount your front body clip, you can still hook up your old steering column, your can modify six lug wheels to five lug I done many cars this way. if you want the 50s look a dropped axle is the way to go. I have cars both ways but then thats why i am THE CUT MASTER

ps check out loudpeddle on the hamb website he does dropped axles 50s style

if anyone has the bbballl? there is a posting on how to do your own dropped axle on the hamb i will give it a try when i get time.

I got my 2 1/2" axle from Moore Drop in Oakland eons ago. Works great now, with a sway bar, radials and good shocks.

LOL..cutting things up IS traditional/old school hot rodding!

Pleae don't tell people what to do without knowing what your talking about.

My favorite signature line from another board is:

"Anyone can restore a car, it takes a real man to cut one up".

My next shop project is to cut up a '53 GMC Panel I've decided needs to donate parts to another project. I have parts of a '55 1st pickup scattered all over the shop today.

im also considering a cpp or orange truck shop -3 drop beam not sure how many leaves to remove and i hear you need later king pins and maybe other stuff?
is it straightforward and does it work well? it looks to me that flipping the front axle will leave you with very little travel before you hit the axle against the chassis?? or am i wrong?

Many years ago I put the front axle on top of the springs on my 1932 Chevy. cpe. I welded some plates on the bottom of the axle to bolt the U bolts for the springs and drilled a hole for the center bolt. Never had any problem with the front end and it was very low. The only modification other than the axle fabrication was to re-shape (bend) the steering arms so the tie rod would clear the springs. Lowering a sstraight axle pickup is EASY! Justdo the simple changes I did and everything works fine. You may want to "C" the frame a bit for riding clearance. This is way cheaper than a dropped axle and works just as well, and it drops the front end around 5", all this using only slightly modified stock parts, so it can be easily converted to sstock if you ever want to (why would anyone want to?).

I have moved the axle above the springs on my 59 as chevman32 has done. Even with 2 leafs removed(to soften the ride) I don't have any clearance problems. I fabricated mounting plates and welded them to the underside of the axle( after grinding the surface flat)care must be taken to insure the axle will sit level and the center line is correct. The only other modification I had to do was relocate the lower shock mounts for tierod clearence. I had already mounted the shocks to the rear of the axle for use with the saginaw steering box. I have not had to "C" the frame though it might be worth the extra clearence.

I have also put the front axle on top the of the leaf springs it works out ok, you have to weld a plate to the bottom of the axle, update you tie rod ends and install them under the steering arm for more pitman arm clearence. sometimes you need to shortnen the pitman arm so it will not hit the tie rod. dont use the original rubber stoppers you lose travel put after market ones on your frame. remember this is for someone with limmited funds a dropped axle is the best way

Moving the axle above the springs is a cost effective alternative to buying a dropped axle. It was never my intention that this be done with an aftermarket drop axle. I believe that most bolters put safety before all else. I would never advise anyone to go so low that this would be an issue.

hey robin what size front wheels are you using?

that ground clearance is crazy i think you may have saved me $419! i had no idea i could mount the original axle ontop and there would be no clearance issues it looks tight to me even with it below! sounds like the standard axle ont op is the way to go and save a chunk of green!

anybody got any pics of this set up?

thanks guys