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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,168 Posts1,057,100 Members48,463 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 | I am installing a 70's Nova rear end in my '53 3100. I need an adapter "kit" to adapt the stock tranny to an open drive shaft. I thought Jim Carter has this, but I can't find it online. Anyone know where I can get something like this? Or... Can I just change the yoke?
MainJet | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,029 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,029 | I don't know if anyone has what you want. Without the torque tube, you need a slip joint somewhere between the rear end and the transmission and front yoke bolts directly to the the torque tube transmission without such provision. Maybe you could use one of the driveshafts that have the slip joint in the driveshaft itself. You could use a carrier bearing from an early ton and a half that has torque tube in and open driveline out. The easiest solution would be to change transmissions. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Originally posted by Baldy: The easiest solution would be to change transmissions. I agree. You should be able to buy a later 50's pickup transmission with the right set up for open drive for no more than what the kit you are looking for is likely to cost.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 | Shortening or lengthening the drive shaft is not an issue. That's easy stuff.
The hard part for me right now is swapping the tranny and getting it all set up to drive. I have a Saginaw waiting in the wings, but thought it would suit my needs and time schedule best to just install the rear end right now and use the original motor and trans so I can drive now. The price of the adapter is less of a concern than my need for my truck in a hurry.
If you guys know of the kit/adapter I'd still like to check it out.
Thanks for the replies.
Mainjet | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 769 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 769 | You don't need an adapter, just stick the Saginaw in with the right clutch parts and make a new drive shaft and enjoy. Floor shifter or modify the 3 on the tree linkage. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 | I think that's the way I'm going. Sounds like the path of least resistance anyway.
Thanks Everyone. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 | IF you are able to JUST make a driveshaft, I think you need to post pictures.
Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 | I didn't say I am able to just MAKE a drive shaft, but I am able to shorten, lengthen, and balance them pretty easy. Which shouldn't seem like rocket science to anyone as I'm sure a lot of you hot rodders have altered drive shafts in your trucks. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 | So that we are both on the same page, are you still using the "original" transmission?
Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I've modified a driveshaft before and it wasn't rocket science. Last time it was the front shaft on a four-wheel-drive and it worked fine for several years. I'd had a constant velocity u-joint fail and rather than replace it, I put in a longer shaft that I made up myself.
Now days I'd hesitate to use a home built drive shaft in a daily driver or high stress application, but if you are a good welder and know how to balance the shaft I don't see a reason not to go ahead.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 70 | I've done a couple of them without a problem. One for a friend and one for my brother. I used to design touchless car washes so we built them in the shop (lost of CC machines to choose from - big ones). Anyway, I think I'm just going to put the Saginaw in, shorten the drive shaft I got with it, change the clutch and call 'er done. | | |
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