The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Questions about tires and stock rims...

Hey guys...

I am new here but after years of wanting one I finally found a gem.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated....

I am not new to building and working on cars but this IS the oldest car I have ever worked on.

Lets start with my immediate question. Rims and Tire...all tires are flat.

I need this to roll around in my shop. I LOVE the rims...not changing them. The tire reads 7.00 - 20. I keep getting mixed information from tire shops. Some shops think these rims are split rims while others do not. This is my first time needing a tube. Pros / Cons? Is there a way of using THESE rims tubeless.

Thanks.

Welcome. You can post photos directly to your posts by following the directions in the left margin of every page.🛠

You have 20 inch split rims on 5/10 7.25" bolt pattern. Most tire shops will not touch those.

Modern 22.5's(1950's and later) will work but are hard to find. Modern 19.5's will also work and are quite common. You don't say what part of the 'land of fruits and nuts' you are from, but the correct 22.5's come on farm trucks in the '50's, so look around. While you are looking for wheels you can work on the running gear.

Ed

You only need to post in one place, multiples are overkill, we all see the appropriate post.

Ed

I didn't double post. I simply posted in the wrong place and the thread was moved here.

I am in Northern California. I seriously don't want to change these rims if I don't have too. Looking for some pros / cons and any information that will allow me to make an educated choice.

I do want to travel on the highway but I don't plan on take this truck cross country or anything.

Searching this forum am I correct that these are "BUDD Wheels"?

Start with reading the tech tip on this site regarding truck wheels.
https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/
There are several types of split rims. If they are in good condition (not rusted or deformed) and If they are mounted by a knowledgeable technician, they are fine. There is one exception and that is the Firestone RH-5. It is dangerous regardless of condition. You may not have this type if the split rims on your truck are original to the truck, due to the age of the truck. Bias ply tires to replace what you have are available (not especially cheap). The other option, that is pricey, is to have custom wheels made to match your bolt pattern, but on a wheel that mounts modern radial tires.
You may have to find a tire shop that has experience with these type of tires and wheels, like a truck shop or one that services agricultural equipment. With split rims of any type you must use a cage or chains as you air up the assembly, in case things come apart. If you talk to old timers, they can tell you of accidents resulting in serious maiming and death.
Kent

That's one cool truck!

Don't waste your time at the McTire stores. Look for old-line shops that have experience with this stuff. Tubes are no mystery; I once had a leaky tubeless wheel and had to install a tube in it. Everyone warned me that the tire would run hotter and wear out faster. Nope, it lasted just the same as the tubeless tires.

Ok.

I LOVE the "LOOK" of these rims on this truck.

Simple question...

Do they make wheels that look like these but are not split rims?

As I said this is completely out of my wheel house. All the google searches aren't giving me much. I don't mind the hunt and I travel all over the country for business.

Any help with a search term that identify these rims will help. A specific year those rims were used.

Cool old truck! Firstly, you must run tubes with those wheels. I would not call them split rims... though some folks do. That is a wheel with a detachable ring. All 1-piece wheels, those that can mount tubeless tires, are drop-center. The wheels on your truck are not drop center, and the ring must be removed and replaced to mount/dismount tires. That's when it can get dangerous. As others said, tire shops familiar with big trucks and ag equipment will have experience with those kind of wheels. Of course, first you have to get them off of the truck.

Thanks for the information.

Is this what I have? I just want to get my information correctly.

How about a close up picture of your wheels so we can see if you have Lock Ring, Split Ring or Split Rim...my guess is you have Lock Ring (the removable ring is NOT split, it's a complete circle). If I'm right those rims are still serviceable by a big truck tire shop.

The smaller size 700-20", 750-20 truck tires are hard to find in a M/S Traction tread, but the Hwy/Steer tires are available.

Mike B

Here you go. I went over to the shop and they are not the same as the video. No split ring.

Here are pics of front wheel and then the back side dually wheel. Hopefully this helps.

Those are 2-piece Lock Ring wheels, the outer bead on the front wheels is removable by deflating the tire, pushing the outer ring in and then finding the two spots on the ring that don't have the lock flange (they're 180* apart from each other) and working that non-flange area off of the rim lip. These wheels are still in serviceable.

Mike B

It looks like you have the same type as on my 46 COE. The three piece with the lock ring on the outside of the flater side of the rim, no notches. These are also serviceable. Only the RH-5 Firestone wheel with the lock ring in the center of the wheel are the true widow makers and should never be used. If you get tires mounted on these rims, it's best have your tire guy disassemble and then pick them up to clean and prime them on the inside, keep all the parts together for each wheel.

Three Piece?

So I went to two tractor places and GSR gave me the best quote. 1600+ for 7 tires....that is tires, tubes mounted and balanced. Is that that a good price or should I keep shopping?

E

That is a great price in my opinion but see what others say.
Kent

That's not bad. I paid $400 several years ago for 2 750x20's mounted with new flaps and tubes made in china. I had to get them balanced later, It's important on the front I found out! The third piece is just a skinny lock ring.

Thanks....

Last questions and I think I have all the info to proceed forward.

I didn't get a reply so I assume this style rim was not created later for tubeless tires. Even if the rim is larger 22.5 but still look the same would work. If yes they were please include a make model and year vehicle and if that rim has a specific "style" name include that. Anything that will help me search for it on ebay and other.

I am ignorant on all this and all the searches on the internet talk about is bikes when you type tube vs tubeless tires ect.

I would like to hear from people running tube tires like these. Do you regret not upgrading? Pros/Cons for tube or tubeless tires.

Can these tires handle some horsepower? I don't plan on using it as a farm truck but I also don't plan on putting it on a race track but I would like to have some power.

Anything you can add to help me with my choice is appreciated.

One more question...

I need this to roll in the shop. Thankfully before putting in air in the tires you guys informed me on the dangers of these multi-piece rims.

Assuming the tubes have minor leaks and I can add some tire sealant and add air and the tire holds air. Can I safely add air to get these inflated to roll?

If so what air pressure can I safely add.

Inspect the edges/rings for excessive rust. Get a clip on type of air chuck. Affix it to the valve stem. Step a few feet behind the edge of the rim and turn on the air. Bring it up to where it will roll and quit there. For added safety take your tow chain and wrap it around the tire through the spokes. I would think 25lbs would let you roll it. The tire shops put them inside a steel cage to inflate them. They are not the Widow Makers but they still require care when working on them.🛠

Thank you. Will do and the chain idea is great idea.

I think Ed answered this earlier in this thread, you need to look for 22.5's off of a mid/late 50's GM truck. They will look just like your existing wheels. Chevrolet introduce the tubeless wheels on their trucks in 1956. The 5/10 lug pattern you have was only used on the 1-1/2 ton trucks, the 2-ton had 6-lug. With that said your center hole is smaller, so using the later wheels will require a custom made center hole spacer ring.

$1600 sounds fair to me...are you putting traction tires on the rear or just a hi-way tread?

As for more HP, how much more HP are you thinking about? You might want to figure that out before you buy your tires...putting 8.25x20's on the back will give you a little more road speed (they are taller than the 750x20's).

Mike B

He did but didn't specify if the rims would look the same. The key in your post was specifying that it was ONLY for 1 1/2 ton trucks. That made my google searches relevant to the information needed. I was searching 56 chevy trucks and not seeing any wheels that looked like mine.

Thank you.

Decision made...

I am on the hunt for 22.5 ONE piece rims. If anyone knows where there are some or has some shoot me PM.

Thanks to everyone who posted....can't wait to start the build.

I am sure I will have more questions.

Note...ALL 22.5's are one piece tubeless and ALL 20" are tube type.

Make sure you find them with a bead width of less than 7"...the exact match for your 7.50x20's is the 8.25x22.5...

These wheels are VERY hard to find on the net...you need to walk the old junk yards. Don't overlook old school buses.

Mike B

Thank you. Yes Tubeless is what I want. I just love the look of these rims on this truck. I guess we will find out just how much I love these rims depending on how long it takes to find them.

They are found on lots of farm trucks. Like Mike said, don't waste time on the 'net, need to get out there and look for yourself, also, don't bother asking, they don't care, look around and say I'll take these, don't show too much interest or the $ will go up.

Ed

Twenty pounds or so will inflate your tires to move a it. I had my new tires mounted and they had 90 PSI it them, I back them down to 40 PSI and have been driving it for years.

I travel for business a lot (of course not right now) so I plan on stopping at the wrecking yards and look around. But seriously if anyone sees them out there especially in the lower states across the u.s...let me know.

Hey guys....

I found three 22.5 rims that look "close". They bolt pattern seems right but something seems off.

Maybe ford rims? They are three hours away so that is why I ask before driving to see them.

I think that is a 5 on 8" pattern. I have two also, one requires a tube because of rust. I don't know why they wouldn't fit, one can measure the offset beforehand.

Ed.

Those look like Budd wheels with the tapered lug stud holes...your truck has straight cut stud holes and a smaller stud size, plus all of your wheels should have 10 lug holes even though it only uses 5 on the front.

Mike B

Thank you. Saved me the trouble of driving there. If anyone has a good picture of the 22.5 tubeless rims similar to my tube rim that they can post will likely help me from making any costly error.

This is what you want with 5/10 bolts, stock plate is covering up half the holes on front wheel. .625 studs.

Ed

Thank you!

I mounted 7.50 - 17 bias ply tires on my 1953 3600. I use the 3/4 ton to pull my vintage trailer (1957). Michelin offered radial ply tires for my application, but discontinued the tires by the time I was ready to purchase. I used a regional tire dealer, Les Schwab Tire Centers, to supply and install the tires (from STA) on my truck and they had no problem with these "split rims". After a few years of experience, my regret is that I installed bias ply tires. There is a lot of steering involved when trying to keep both the truck and trailer headed in a straight line. Any disturbance in road surface, cross winds or "just cuz they want to wander" causes some anxious driving moments from time to time. Although we have pulled the trailer at interstate highway speeds (which I won't mention here) just to keep up with the flow of traffic, I am now seriously ready to switch to radial ply tires. Finding a tire to fit my wheels is a difficult process. My rims are 17" originals. Because I installed front disc brakes suited to Chevy 2500 heavy duty suburban, 16" wheels from a C-20 (which would have been a good alternative) won't clear the brake housings. I am now ready to seriously explore other alternatives. I hope this information helps in your quest.

GM uses 17" wheels on modern pickups.

Ed

Thanks for the info. I am still in research and gather parts stage as I am currently building a custom sprinter RV and 66 Cadillac DeVille. I LOVE the current look of the rims on my truck but after consideration changing to a bit more modern makes sense for what I have planned for it.

The hunt is on.

E

Thanks, Ed. I'll pursue that option.