The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (TUTS 59, Hugh63c10, Phak1), 212 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,089
Posts1,055,988
Members48,430
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1364658 06/12/2020 8:07 PM
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
E
'Bolter
'Bolter
E Offline
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
Is it really necessary to fasten screws down so that they feel like they're welded in? I'm working on door latch problems and need to adjust the striker plate in the door frame that's held on with 4 screws. Easy job, right? Not so fast.

The slots in the screw are 1/8" wide and very shallow, and kind of chewed up from someone who worked on them before. I soaked them as much as possible though I don't think much of the penetrant got to the threads. Using the biggest screwdriver I have, 18" long with a 3/8" square shaft, I put my vice grips on for added leverage and tried to loosen the screws. I can watch the shaft start to twist before I can't hold it in the groove any longer. It wasn't necessary to make them so tight and turns a straightforward 1 minute job into a small project. A little dab of anti-seize would have worked wonders.

Here's my promise to the next guy who owns my truck: anything I've taken off and put back on will be able to be taken off again without getting your blood pressure up, mangling the fasteners or causing bad language. You're welcome.

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
Mine kept coming loose so I used some blue Loctite. That solved the problem.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
E
'Bolter
'Bolter
E Offline
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 250
So, if we had added your problem to mine and divided by 2 neither one of us would have had a problem?

Joined: May 2016
Posts: 268
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 268
Murphys law. 🙄


1949 gmc 1-ton
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 559
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 559
I had to make my own steel threaded plates to slide into the pillar because mine were missing on one side. The other one i had robbed from another truck and i had to cherry it up with a torch to get them to move.

Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 242
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 242
While we're ranting... I'd like to curse at slotted head screws in general.
I can forgive Chevy for the clutch heads... they wouldn't be so bad if those screwdrivers actually existed.

Slotted heads though... anything but those! Fortunately not found too often on my chevy.
Some things are really bad: like outlet covers and especially firearms who's screws are always slotted.
Terrible!

Last edited by Ott3r; 06/12/2020 9:12 PM.

'59 Chevy Suburban, NAPCO
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Ott3r, clutch head drivers and clutch head bits are available at most any tool store. NAPA has quality drivers.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
Originally Posted by Justhorsenround
Ott3r, clutch head drivers and clutch head bits are available at most any tool store. NAPA has quality drivers.
Agree 100%. Clutch head drivers are pretty much available.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 124
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 124
Originally Posted by truckernix
Mine kept coming loose so I used some blue Loctite. That solved the problem.
Hence the reason most are so tight. I do agree the sloted screws can be a royal PITA. Your best chance is to find a screw driver that is as wide as the slot and the tip of which is in perfect condition, or better yet a good quality impact driver and a heavy hammer.


38 Chevy 1/2 ton being resto-moded
65 AC Cobra replica
USAF vet
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 620
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 620
On my guns I ONLY use case hardened gun screwdrivers. Good gunsmith screw driver set cost about $110 for six. Never use anything else, gun screws are very hard. To get difficult screws or bolts off our Stovebolts always apply Kroil Oil or Blaster and let set for a day. Use a hammer impact screwdriver with a Brass hammer. It will come off. Patience, patience.
justhoseround and Eureka jim have the right attitude .Doc

Last edited by Doc.Hall; 06/13/2020 4:07 AM. Reason: additional info

Currently making 1954 3100 better than new and Genetics
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,987
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,987
They probably weren't abnormally tight to begin with, but after adding in 50 or 60 year's worth of rust, therein lies the problem.

Another thought--I'd probably want the screws holding my door latch on to be pretty tight. Losing one and having a door fly open while driving would not be my idea of a good time!


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 242
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 242
Originally Posted by Justhorsenround
Ott3r, clutch head drivers and clutch head bits are available at most any tool store. NAPA has quality drivers.

Fair enough grin
I'm still replacing them all with phillips or socket head... I'll just have to forgive chevy for my own stubbornness.
It felt really good to replace my slotted timing plate screws with torx drive.


'59 Chevy Suburban, NAPCO
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
Originally Posted by Ott3r
Fair enough grin
I'm still replacing them all with phillips or socket head... I'll just have to forgive chevy for my own stubbornness.
It felt really good to replace my slotted timing plate screws with torx drive.
I hope you used Loctite on those screws. The came with slotted screw heads so that they could be staked in place with an awl.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 242
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 242
Nope. Just torqued to spec.
Things happen for better or worse late at night in the garage...


'59 Chevy Suburban, NAPCO

Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0