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#1363643 06/05/2020 9:11 PM
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 114
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 114
one of the things I noticed first off when I bought my truck was you had to slam the doors to get them shut, slam them hardwould be a better description. After I noticed the strikers and latches were all new so I moved the striker out and out and out.......

I had to enlarge the adjustment holes until there was almost nothing left, now the doors with the windows down would shut OK but not great, when I told the wife too pull hard and firmly to her that must have ment wind up and give it every thing you got, Im surprised the glass didnt shatter

I had heard of these tin clips to go with the latchs but thought they were to good to be true, but I ordered a set anyway , installed them, and to my surprise they work. not perfect but with windows down the doors shut normally and windows up a lot more easier
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l2.jpg (71.89 KB, 171 downloads)
l4.jpg (62.77 KB, 169 downloads)
l6.jpg (76.57 KB, 154 downloads)

Last edited by woof359; 06/05/2020 9:15 PM.

woof359 Family 1952 3100 5 Window
woof359 #1363646 06/05/2020 9:35 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,596
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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woof359 #1363648 06/05/2020 9:46 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 154
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 154
I've had a similar problem with my '49 ever since I bought it. The doors have to be slammed to latch, despite trying all sorts of adjustments. I've come to the conclusion the door gasket rubber is either too thick, or too dense. It's fairly new, as the previous owner replaced all the rubber on/in the cab. Can anybody confirm or refute my conclusion?


Greg Brown
woof359 #1363657 06/05/2020 11:43 PM
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 464
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 464
I installed the SoftSeal door seals on my 49 and the doors would not shut. I ended up buying some "D" shaped seals that would collapse to 1/8" and now the doors shut fine. I also had trouble with my doors not staying latched. I bought the door latch clips and it fixed my doors as well. Great product.


"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
1949 5 Window 3100
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woof359 #1363669 06/06/2020 2:28 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
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A teacher, but always an apprentice.
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
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Posts: 2,168
I built up my latch with my welder and then contoured it to a good radius. It made them act like new.


1970 Chevrolet C10
Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny
Follow the build in the Project Journal
1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually
"Ole Red Girl"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's
Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
woof359 #1363715 06/06/2020 7:09 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
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Renaissance Man
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We often find ourselves looking for the easy fix with bad acting doors. Me included.
The truth of the matter with these doors is that you need to address all of the aspects of the door/latch/striker.
Number one would be to rebuild the the door hinges.
Number two would be to install the door without the door seals, with the striker removed.
Number three would be to make sure that the belt line of the door lines up with the belt line of the cab.
Doing those three things first will make your life much easier to tweak the door into an acceptable position to close properly.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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