The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Disc Brake Conversion for 49 Chev 3600

Does anyone know of a after-market front disc option for a 1949 Chev 3600? If so, who might I contact?

Greetings, I bought mine for my 51 GMC 1 ton and it has a PTO. DAVE was great to work with. I acquired calipers and rotors from a Chev 1 ton van and everything else from Dave.

Dave Chapman
The Hollister Road Company
713-937-0387
info@hollisterroad.com
www.hollisterroad.com
www.thoroco.com

I am very pleased with the kit.

If I recall, Dave (Hollister road) passed away a year or two ago. I am not sure what happened to the business. I think it was shut down. There is a company TsmMfg.net that offers a kit. It looks like it only uses single piston calipers.

Try looking or posting in the tons o fun forum, probably more info there.

Jon

A couple options.

https://droppedaxles.com/brakes

https://www.tsmmfg.net/chevy-gmc-car-front-disc-brakes-single-dual-options.html

Thanks for these website links. The tsmmfg.net looks like they may be able to help. On the websites I've checked, the disc brake conversion all state 16" wheels or larger. I bought my truck last fall and it's running P235175R15 tires. These are the old split rim wheels. The rims are in nice shape and painted to match the detailing of my truck. I'm sure there's plenty advice on rim sizes within this forum. I was hoping I might find a disc brake solution and not have to change my wheel size.

Any disc brake that will fit inside your 15" wheels will have marginal performance at best, and it's probably going to be impossible to find 8-lug discs that small. The split rims will help a little, because they won't have the drop centers necessary to mount tubeless tires.
Jerry

Both kits use late model rotors. I believe 12.7 diameter. You'll never get them Inside the OE 15" rims. You'll need to upgrade to a 16" one piece. Even then there still may be some clearance issues depending on the backspacing and where the center disc is welded to the dropped portion of the rim.

Has anyone installed either of these two kits? Happy with them ?

Allen, try Packhousemike. He has installed with success and has some useful guidelines.

Here's Mike's reply buried in another forum (my bad).

Thanks TGill

I'm going to start-in on brake conversion thanks to the advise I've received from the Bolters. It appears 16x6 or 16x8 wheels will work with the TSM disc brake front wheel conversion. Brakes, steering, suspension are first up before I get into re-building my 235 or looking for a 261. I've received strong recommendations to consider the 261 over the 235. John Milliman has provided some great direction on making the switch to a 261 engine. For those who have changed/increased wheel sizes, I'd be interested on feedback to the advantages of 16" vs 17" wheels?

I would look at tires for both size wheels, then decide what the price difference would be. Most everything is going to 17", so finding new take-offs maybe a good way to save some money. 16" are getting like 15" & 14", hard to find in a decent brand tire.

Thanks Joe H. I've checked both JEGS and Coker and can only find 16" steel wheels. Through JEGS, they offer a Wheel Vintique, 939-82-660804. I'm going to keep looking for a 17" steel, 8 lug wheel. I have a cosmetic question. I want to keep the original look of my 1949 3600 truck and make sure the wheels will fit-up my original Chevrolet hub caps. On my original wheels, the hub caps are captured with 4 clips that are riveted to the rims. On the Vintique wheels, I don't see how these rims will capture hub caps. Has anyone solved how to retain the original hub caps to new wheels?

Buy the clips from Jim Carter and attach them to the wheels with rivets.

TGILL, I just went through the same process on my 1949 3600. “Standard“ steel rims had a 4 inch backspace which simply don’t allow enough backspace, wheel rubs against the tire rod end. So, I bit the bullet and ordered 16 inch steel rims from Wheel Vintiques with a 3 1/2 inch backspace. Payment is upfront and I was told delivery would be eight weeks. After eight weeks I called and was told they could not meet my specs which they assured me they could, when I ordered, (and paid for them.) Before I could cancel the order I received an email stating that they could build the wheels as ordered. I was told they would ship in 3 to 5 days. After two weeks I called and was told again that the shop decided they could not make the wheels. Again, I canceled the order but received another call a few days later saying they could make the wheels with a three and three-quarter inch backspace, which I declined. Unhappy to say the least.

And yes, I was contacted once more and told the shop manager had decided they could build them with a 3 5/8 inch backspace which I then approved. I was assured they would ship within two days. In fact, they didn’t ship for another 2 1/2 weeks. But there is a happy ending, they arrived in good condition and fit just as my cardboard template predicted they would. I have test fit one wheel with a 225/75R 16 and the fit is just what I wanted. Will have the rest of the wheels mounted this week and will be happy to see my three piece split wheels and the rock hard bias ply truck tires the prior owner mounted on them go to wheel and tire heaven. Btw New tires and wheels are 50 pounds lighter per tire and wheel than the originals.

Like you I intended to mount my original hubcaps but that is looking very doubtful. The “pitch“ of the inner rims from wheel Vintiques are more shallow than original 17 inch wheels which means the original hubcaps will not seat properly. In order to accommodate that, I cut eight slices into the inner rim of each of the hubcaps with an angle grinder allowing them to flex inward and adapt to the new steel wheels. The only problem is The clips used to hold on the hubcaps are approximately three eights inch too short and will not engage with the rim of the hubcap. The clips you can order from Jim Carter are even shorter than the originals. I cold chiseled off the clips from the original rims that are definitely longer than the ones you can order online thinking they would work but even the originals are too short. They will require a custom made spacer to fit underneath the clip in order to raise it to the proper height. Right now I’m debating whether that is worth it! My 3600 is an original sunbaked specimen from New Mexico that’s rocksolid all over but a nice toasty brown with its share of bumps and dings from a lifetime working on a horse farm. It doesn’t look too bad without any hubcaps! Good luck with the project if you find a way to fit the hubcaps let me know I am a true shade tree mechanic so I may have missed an easy solution. Wouldn’t be the first time.

TKM thanks for some very helpful and discouraging information. I've looked for 8 lug 17" wheels with no luck. I've checked JEGS and Coker; even gone to my local Discount Tires Store and have these guys researching. Over this weekend, I went directly to Wheel Vintique and they offer a 16x8 rim ... assume same as what you order and finally received. You may have greased the skids for me.. Thanks! I'll call them tomorrow and start my journey of getting these ordered. The discouraging part is lack of ability to attach the original hub caps. My truck is original and the old hub caps with "Chevrolet" is a desired look I want to retain. Hope one of our Stovebolt members has solved this issue and has a workable solution. TKM, I assume your switch was to fit-up the front disc brake conversion kit? I'm curious how that works out and the braking difference you'll experience. As we all know, the original drum brake system is a work of art ... need to anticipate stops in advance to gracefully slow and stop. Any immediate or emergency stops lock-up the wheels and hold-on in hopes you avoid anything in front of you. Again, thanks for sharing your experience. Much appreciated. I'll let you know if I find a solution for the hub cap attachment.

Tgill, although a disc brake conversion is in my future plans, I have not researched fit issues – I have been “presuming” that because the backspace on my new wheels provides even more clearance than the original wheels there won’t be a problem. But we all know the dangers of presuming Disc brake project is on next winter’s agenda, but you are so right about the original drums and the need to anticipate everything ! I have read that disc brake conversion on a 49 requires foregoing a power booster, which is OK by me as long as manual disc performance is comparable, and again, I have read on these pages that manual disc brakes are a HUGE difference. With more stopping power I will feel more confident in taking some longer trips.

One idea I have for fitting the original hubcaps is to fasten the clips to the “side” of the inner wheel (the indented area near the bolt holes, don’t know what the official name is for that part of the wheel) instead of on the flat surface between the bolt holes. This would eliminate the need for a shim under the clip. May be unorthodox, but also might work ! Btw, I intended to pop rivet the clips on, saw a thread saying it works well.

Hope things work out at wheel Vintiques, sounds like they will. I ordered 16X6 rims, my template said 16X8 would also work but clearance, especially on the inner side of rear wheels at full spring deflection looked doubtful. On the other hand, I won’t be carrying enough weight to ever cause that condition. So, I guess I was being extra conservative in ordering the 16X6. 16X8s should be fine but double check clearance with planned tire size. There are several tire size conversion charts on line so you can make an exact cardboard template with all dimensions. Good luck, I will look for your answer to the hubcap issue.

TKM-
I received my 16x8 wheels from Vintique. They were a bit flaky, but persistence paid-off. I need to size-up tires and keep an eye towards clearance. Hoping I don't have a problem. When shopping for the 8 log wheels I couldn't find 16x6 or 16x8 wheels. I'll let you know how they fit.

On hub caps, I haven't tackled this yet. I'd love to hear from anyone who has changed from the original 15" wheels and successfully fitted-up the original Chevrolet hub caps to 16" wheels. If I don't hear back from anyone successfully making this change, I'll take to my machine shop friend and start mocking-up ways to attached clips to new wheel to fit the original hub caps. Stay tuned. Thanks!

PICS!!

Concerning hub cap clips; the only tried and true solution I've read about is to machine or fab up spacers that go between the clip and wheel. There is a really good discussion somewhere on the site. My quick search failed to find it. This thread has good info along with a good link.

Moparguy-
Thanks this gives me hope I can follow LarryK's instructions (article by Smokey Culver) and get my original hub caps to fit my new 16"x8 wheels! Appreciate your help!

TGill, glad to hear you have your new wheels and are pursuing the elusive task of fitting original hubcaps, keep us posted !

I've lost track of who has steel wheels and who is still looking. But for the record, I've been through the wheel problem. I have used 16" Ford steels with shallow enough back-spacing, 0" offset 7" Ultra alloy wheels (no longer made), 8" American alloy Ford-spec wheels and finally 0" offset, 6" wide 10-hole, alloy, trailer wheels with 8-hole mounting from Etrailer Supply. All the combos I've mentioned are 16."

8-inch wheels with the right backspacing to clear the tie rod ends will put the wheel/tire combo centerline so far outboard of the kingpin centerline that the truck becomes very hard to steer in a straight line. It will follow every pavement aberration and is very difficult to control in pavement ruts at over 40MPH. It's worse loaded. I know this from experience and it's not safe.

The factory setup was "centerpoint" steering with the wheel/tire centered on the king pin axis. This had two benefits: easier steering at slow speeds like parking and more controllable on the rough roads for which the trucks were built. The original wheel offset was about 9/16" Inboard of the centerline on the 5"" wheels. 0" makes for acceptable handling with 6" wheels but as the wheel gets wider the centerline moves outboard by half the distance of the increase. Wide tires makes the situation that much worse.

I hope this helps someone who hasn't already spent heavily on 8-hole wheels

I put 17" GM wheels on my Blazer front axle to get tie rod clearance.

Ed

1Ton Tommy-
Thanks for this feedback. I've asked members on this forum for input and advise/suggestions related to converting my front drum brakes to the TSM MFG disc brake system. What's I've received and read sound promising and haven't heard of ride/handling quality issues. I'm committed to some degree as I've bought the 16x8 wheels to accommodate the 4" clear backspace requirement and waiting for the disc brake system to arrive any day.
If anyone out there has experienced the ride/quality issues Tommy is warning me about,, I'd appreciate hearing about your story. Thanks.

TGill, I am planning my disc brake conversion for this coming winter. Anxious to hear how yours goes. Good luck!

Ed, are those modern tubeless 17" wheels? If so on what truck are they found?

TKM-
I've just received my disc brake conversion kit from TSM. David is a good guy and really helpful. Shout-out to the Bolter/s who turned me his direction. I have my new 16x6 wheels and brakes. So, next steps are to go through front-end, upgrade as necessary, add new front disc brakes, check on rear brakes and make necessary repairs and then fit-up my new wheels with fresh rubber.

I'd still love to hear someone chime-in on how I can fit-up my original hub caps to my new wheels. I've ordered new clips and drilled/attached and tested how well the hub caps snap-in. Not the same as my original setup. The hub cap doesn't seat firm to the rim (rattles and worried they'll jar loose on the road). I'm going to continue to adjust to make them work. If the drilled/screwed clips don't end up working, next step might be to find someone who might help me with an insert ring/adapter.

I'll report back on my brake conversion.

1Ton,

Some GM cast wheels, don't know exactly the specs, sorry.

Ed

One thing to think about in the 16" vs 17" wheel decision: tall radials (85 ratio) are readily available for 16x6" wheels (like the etrailer ones) but not available for 17". So a 16" wheel with a 235/85 R16 radial will be about 31.7" in diameter, whereas on a 17" wheel you'll likely be a 70 ratio and actually have a smaller diameter (30"). You can go bias ply truck tire of course and get back your tall tire, but give up the ride quality.

Tgill,

Haven’t been on the site for too long, have you installed the disc brake kit yet ? I’m still planning on the same this winter (modifying garage now and planning on lift install soon) Anxious to hear your experience.

Hi TKM -
I received and installed my disc brakes along with new 8x16 wheels and new tires. This effort turned out great. Truck stops with authority; like on a dime! The ride with the larger wheels and tires is smoother. Very satisfied with the outcome.

Tgill,

Great news, so glad you had a successful conversion! What is the backspace on your new rims ? You did not install a power assist unit, correct ? Any issues during install I should be alert for ? Did you upgrade or do any repairs/adjustments to rear brakes ? Thanks for your updates.

Tgill,

I should’ve read your prior post I see that you have a 4 inch backspace on the rims. Did you ever figure out the mystery of using the standard clips to install the original hubcaps?

This is a very interesting topic, I remember looking at disc brake kits about 10 years ago when I restored the truck and there was no options at the time.

Does anyone know what the backspacing requirements are? I'm running the dexstar 17-153 rims, its a 16X6 with a .5" inset. I see TKM is running 4", curious to know if that is the minimum required.