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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,049 Posts1,055,741 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2019 Posts: 131 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2019 Posts: 131 | Hi, I posted awhile back looking for a split bench seat for my '37 Chevy 1/2 ton. A pretty nice guy from Columbia, Mo. had a good set so I made an 1100 mile round trip one day to pick that up. Now my problem is a small leak in the radiator. Looking through the forums here it seems the recommended procedure is to remove the whole front clip. The shop manual claims you can simply tilt the radiator back and it will lift out. Not a chance. I also have a small drip in the water pump to block gasket so I pulled the water pump and fan and then there was plenty of room to remove the radiator. So anyone removing a radiator may find it easier to remove the water pump than the whole front clip. Like everything involving an 83 year old truck, a gasket replacement evolves into replacing the water pump and re-coring the radiator. I should name this thing "The Money Pit" but I'm sure I'm not alone. John | | | | | Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 298 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 298 | Burchmanor, just finished my 37 a couple months ago. Installed a new radiator core and new water pump. Had pump nose shaved down to get enough clearance for fan as I installed a 57 235. Good luck with your work ahead of you.
1937 GC
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 26 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 26 | I'm too lazy to walk out to the shop to get my shop manual, but I'm pretty sure it mentions you can remove the radiator by removing the water pump and thermostat housing first, then lifting the radiator out. I think if you remove the support rods from the cab and top of the radiator shell, it'll come out. My '37 has a pretty fair leak in it that's keeping me from driving it anywhere. I'm trying to decide if it's enough of an "emergency" to justify taking to it a radiator shop in these covid-19 lockdown times. I wouldn't remove the front clip, although it doesn't look too hard to do.
1935 QD 1.5 ton stake bed 1937 SD 1.5 ton stake bed 1944 MS 1.5 ton stake bed 1946 PW 2 ton stake bed
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,201 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,201 | Now mine has a 250 engine that sets a little lower, but I can my radiator out by removing the V-support rod, the water pump, and thermostat housing. I have done with the hood on and off. Cap the inlet and outlet with rubber bands and sandwich bags so you don't pour coolant on the engine or yourself. Have a helper because its quite a lean over the fenders and the radiator is fairly heavy when you are in that position. I have heard it comes out the same way with original engines. The hardest part is getting the fan blades off. Use heavy cardboard taped over the core so you don't damage the fins. I would avoid pulling the front clip unless you have other work, it involves wiring to the lights, fender braces, and fender to running board. Any one of these can really slow you down if they haven't been apart before. But if you decide to pull the clip, replace the core support bushing while its apart. You also have to readjust the V-rod so the hood gaps look right, so you may want to mark where the nuts are on the engine side. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2019 Posts: 131 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2019 Posts: 131 | Actually, I removed the pump with the fan attached. Two of the fan bolts are almost impossible to get at. | | |
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