Okay, this is my first full blown restoration. Purchased a rusty, has not been run in over 15 years, 1960 Apache C20 step side long bed. Finding great problems since it is a 3/4 ton and there is not much out there for parts and info. So, I have a rear end with no numbers on it. Not sure if it is used in any other vehicles. Trying to figure out how to post image links here....
I need to identify what type of rear end is in this beast so I can get parts to replace anything that is worn. It has covers on front and back that come off with set of nuts and bolts that go through the rear end assy. No name on it and no numbers. Also wondering if it is the same diameter as other common axles where it bolts to the frame???
I used the attachment manager, hope it works or...….
Guess I need to find out where people post there images to link to this page???? Guess that should have been my first question. Maybe I will try posting to my Flickr page.
Your pictures came out fine. That is a common rear end, someone will come up with the number. Do you know the ratio? If it is lower Than you wish, there are higher ratios available.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Should be a number on the top side of the axle. I think drivers side closer to the pumpkin than backing plate. Where is the rest of the truck. Now that ou know how to work the pictures.
~ HB 1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery 1962 Chevrolet C10 1962 Suburban
Eaton HO52. Usually has 4.56’s but depending on year can have 4.10’s (rare). They are a great solid rear but have basically no aftermarket parts available. You can get the common bearings/seals by number but thats it. Zero gear selection. I searched and searched for a while and found 3 and while hunting for 4.10’s for my truck and everyone I found was 4.56 until i located one on this site in canada and made a deal. Both my original 1949 rear and the newer c20 center section I bought were dead quiet and ran great. You will probably be good to go with a reseal and some fresh fluid if you dont see obvious carnage. If you need any more info (still limited) look up the HO52/HO72 on the 4WD forums. Some guys use them in off road crawlers.
Thanks for the information. I am planning on taking it to a local drive-line shop in Newburg, Oregon that knows these rear ends. Had to make sure they were not pulling my wallet springs when they told me this could be a problem getting parts for the rear end. I purchased in February just before the lock down. I will post more pictures on the 60's forum.
Not seeing where to attach a picture in this reply to the posting.... I will try on the 60's Truck forum....
Im pretty sure most shops will say it needs something but then you can turn around and slap it in and run it for 10years with no problems. Some shops will just try to rebuild anything. Mine was looked over by a shop with the previous owner before I bought it and they said “needs bearings”. I bought it and looked at it and saw nothing wrong that jumped out at me for a 1970 third member. I didn’t see any pitts or anything just some normal garage dust. I blew them off and bolted it in. Its silent and runs down the road and highway perfect. I dont even think about it being a issue honestly. Now if i opened a cover and it was rusty crusty then i would be concerned....mabey. Ive run pitted gears that looked trashed and they ran perfectly for years. Some people would be upset about them but honestly the gears dont have feelings hahaha.
Why dont you open it up and take a peek. If see something goofy that you are afraid to tackle, find a quality, trustworthy, shop at that point. Pretty good chance itll be better than you think.
Thanks for the pointers. I can do nut and bolt stuff, but actual rebuild of engines and drive stuff is for the trained guys. I want a super dependable day driver that looks showroom new. So I will try and save on the labor by doing most of the work myself. Engine, front end and rear end I will pay for the proper help. Seems I have a lot of time to tear it apart no with the darn virus....
I will do a full frame off, sand blast and powder coat the frame. Most of the mechanical parts will be replaced with new parts. The Swamp Thing sat in a wet field next to a barn for a good 15 years and everything is really rusted that was under the truck. Not certain about dipping, sanding or soda blast for the cab and doors???? There is a lot of surface rust inside the doors and I think dipping will be the go to on this so the rust is gone.
I am open to suggestions, thanks ahead of time and for the ones given.
PS; There is even rust under the grease. Remember when service techs would just smear all the extra lube grease on the chassis or frame. Some of it on my truck was an inch thick. I scraped off a good 4 pounds of grease that was left near the grease zercs.