Now that the price has almost doubled from when I started looking a couple years ago, finally pulled the trigger on a lift. Love it.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
After much analysis paralysis, I went with the Advantage 9K XTL lift. It doesn't have the cert's that Bendpack and a few others do, but after putting my hands on them, it was much beefier, had the secondary latch, didn't need air to clear latches, and the complete package and support won the day. I've been stalking them at our local Mecum auction for the last several years. My shop layout isn't final, so I needed to be able to move it around as my plan becomes clearer. Hope the pics work.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
Not tall enough. 10' ceilings, wish I had 14' and I could get two stovebolts on/under it.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
Here’s mine. Very affordable. I have 12’ walls. Fits very nicely. I hired a pro to install it and he gave it a thumbs up. Derek Weaver has two locations. Texas and NC. MY LIFT
Installed a 2 post lift on the unheated 15' wall side of my barn last summer. It has become an invaluable tool!!! Lot easier standing up working on vehicles versus laying on your back. Should have done this 40 years ago.
I purchased my 4 poster a few years ago. I truly believe that had I had one 25 years ago when we moved here to the ranch I would have gotten back into the classic vehicle hobby much sooner. I have accomplished more in the last 4 years than I did in the previous 20 all put together.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I have 11' ceiling so not sure if it would work for me though.
If you're really short, that would work. I'd love to have a lift. As I get older, working underneath anything gets harder.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
They came with the lift as an option. I would just contact Advantage. I looked around to try and DIY it, and the best option I saw on YouTube with video.....but he ended up spending about the same plus a day to put it all together. They are nice and bright and out of the way. Highly recommend them.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
I have 14' ceilings and a 2 post 12K# lift. It's one of those "how did I live without it" tools. Add a couple of lifting straps and unload pallets out of the back of the truck. I even use it to clean my mower deck. I have changed engines with it.
MikeB, What lift is that you have? I have 11"6 ceiling and have been looking for a 2 or 4 post lift with the short posts for clearances. Assuming that your lift is at least 9k#. Do you happen to know the depth of the floor you have that on? One of the problems I have run into is I'm on a residential floor, only 4.5 in. thick. Many heavier capacity lifts call for 6" minimums.
"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."
My lift is a New Grand International rated at 12,000 pounds. It came out of a working Midas Muffler shop that was relocation 2-blocks away and the day before the big move they sold all 6 of their lifts in 15 minutes...mine was set up for alignment work with turntables which I completely removed and re-decked.
The foot print of the posts (out to out) is 11'3" wide x 15'4" long with 16'8" runners and 5' ramps. The runners extend past the posts and the ramps hang off the back for a total length of 21'8". I have 6+ inches of concrete under the lift. The top of the cylinder is 8' above the floor. Your 14' ceiling should be just fine...mines 16' and there's tons of room above the wrecker.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
My 12k 2 post lift is on 4" concrete. I build factories for a living. My pads are 14" X 14". That's 392 sq in. That's less pounds per square inch than when your car is parked on the floor even with the weight of the lift. The crappiest residential concrete must be a minimum of 3500 psi by code. That's usually used for sidewalks. Yours is most likely 4000 psi or more. The most important thing on a 2 post is the anchors because they can be loaded out of balance. We use large diameter Tapcons with epoxy to anchor our machines. JMHO.
The most important thing on a 2 post is the anchors because they can be loaded out of balance.
So, has anyone ever secured a 2 post lift to the ceiling for added stability? I have pex tubing in my floor for heat. My concrete is only 4.5 inches thick. I don't want to drill into a line.
John
~ J Lucas 2006 GMC Envoy 4.2 I6 2023 Ram 2500/Cumins 6.7 I6 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Wife’s) 2002 Silverado 2500 Gas 6.0 1941 Chevy 1/2-Ton 1942 Chevy 1.5-Ton SWB In the Gallery My Flicker Photos!
We need one of our resident structural engineers to chime in, but having tubing in the floor would weaken it in my mind...what's the grid spacing on the PEX? Is there any rebar, fiberglass strands or wire mesh in the concrete...that all weighs into the mix as well.
Do you know where the PEX is in the floor and will you be able to center the legs between two parallel runs of the tubing?
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
A couple thoughts John. What about using cables to run each way to the wall? Or cables angled down and anchored to the concrete like utility poles. They would be in the way though. Give us some more info about how your shop is framed up and we will talk it out.
Don
Edit: A great Machinist thinks outside of the box!
Last edited by 2-Ton; 05/08/20206:46 PM.
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck "The Flag Pole" In the Stovebolt Gallery 1946 2-Ton grain truck 1946 3/4-ton pickup, 1953 1-ton pickup 1957 1-ton flatbed dually, 1954 Pontiac Straight Eight Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
Full block foundation on frost footings with 14' side walls. Double wire mesh, the pex is sandwiched in between. I do not know exactly where the pex is. I have 4 zones and just guessing that it's about 12" on center. A lift, let alone a 2 post wasn't even a consideration when I built it back in 05-06. Still not sure that I want one, but if I was doing it again I would surely plan for it.
I'm not concerned about the floor holding the weight, as I could always add a steel plate and double or triple the foot print. I just have always wondered about the possibility of securing one to the ceiling for stability. Unless the vehicle was extremely out off center I don't think it would take much to stabilize the load. I really just wondered if anyone has ever done it.
Steel cables angled down would work (interesting idea) but I think that they would be in the way.
John
~ J Lucas 2006 GMC Envoy 4.2 I6 2023 Ram 2500/Cumins 6.7 I6 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Wife’s) 2002 Silverado 2500 Gas 6.0 1941 Chevy 1/2-Ton 1942 Chevy 1.5-Ton SWB In the Gallery My Flicker Photos!
I'm not a structural engineer, but I don't think the presence of the PEX will significantly weaken the slab. If you want to find the PEX, let the slab go completely cold, then crank up the heat and use an infrared thermometer or an infrared camera (I have a cool one from FLIR that plugs onto an iPhone). You can tell where the slab is by the warmer spots in the slab. It won't be exact, but you should be able to see the spacing, and get your anchor bolts between the tubing.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
My lift is 16' tall and I have 14' ceilings I boxed it in between 2 trusses. It's not holding it in place I just felt better framing it in. Some of the new stud finders can locate plastic water lines. If your floor is built to the international residential code it will have 6" X 6" welded wire mesh in it. Keep in mind building codes are minimum requirements. I am a licensed structural commercial contractor but I have no idea how your floor was built. There are ways to have it tested.
I think the walabot will. I don't have one since I just watch these days. The problem with securing to the ceiling is that your garage was most likely not designed for that kind of lateral load. You could run some 2 X 6's at 45 deg. to your trusses in both directions and put osb on the walls for shear but where and how much would be a question for an engineer. I have 4" concrete with one layer of 6X6ww and I have had my 12500# ambulance on it for extended periods of time and just unloaded a 2000# lathe using just 2 arms. You may be over thinking this. One 3/4" tapcon with epoxy has tons of holding power
Last edited by mick53; 05/09/202011:19 PM. Reason: info
I have found that my 4 post lift, which I have had since 2013 is the best tool in the garage, the only regret is I didn't get it 20 years ago. Its first job after assembling it in the garage was to lift the existing roof (trusses,sheeting and roofing) off the top of the wall plates and install some 4' pony walls above the double top plates , then lower it back down, This gave me 12-1/2' ceiling height. I really like your lighting setup. Steve
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
I agree, every time I use my 4 post lift I kick myself for not having one sooner. If I had known I would have put one outside on 4 small pads. Mine is backyard buddy style. Does not anchor to floor. You can move it if needed. I also have an 11000lb 2 post. Instructions say 4in. Minimum 3500psi with welded wire minimum. Just some more info for you. I was really wondering about the lighting on the one 4 post lift. I have experimented putting single tube florescent bulbs in that location and they blind me without really lighting the bottom of the vehicle. Do you have this problem? I am thinking of led strips with aluminum shields? Mike