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#1350355 03/17/2020 1:01 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 55
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 55
Want to fix some dings in the front stainless part of glove box door on my 51 panel. In order to gain access to back side of stainless will need to separate front from back. Looks like the front is held in place by a flange going around the perimeter. My plan was to bend back the flange separate the two halves, fix the dings, then put the two halves back together by bending the flange back. Just wondered if anyone has attempted this and with what kind of results?


51 1 ton Panel
Betty, she's a handful
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
I've thought about doing the same thing, but have avoided the job so far. I think that bending the flange open to release the two parts will open up a can of worms when trying to bend the flange back in place, potentially leaving it looking way worse than when you started. Depending on how bad your front side looks, and the results you expect, it might be better to just replace the door with a repop. Let us know if you attempt it and your results.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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B
Sir Searchalot
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Possibly cut a section out of the back, leaving the crimp alone. Tap out the dings and reweld the piece back on.... grind, filler as required, sand, paint.
The real problem is fixing the dents. Not as easy as you think. After tapping out, there is a lot of work to do. Filling, Sanding, polishing and polishing and polishing.
They are not overly expensive to buy new if all else fails.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Posts: 10,997
Maybe the paintless dent technique could help. A couple of small holes for the tools used to push the dents out would be easy to cover up. That assumes the dents aren't that big.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 223
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
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If time and the challenge is on your side, attempt the above. If not, Bartamos post makes the most sense.

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 55
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
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Posts: 55
Thanks for the ideas. I am also afraid that once the flange is bent may be difficult to bend back without breaking or botching the whole door. Cheapest unpainted repop I found was $95 on ebay.

Mine has just two small dings on top stainless.
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IMG_8789.JPG (207.36 KB, 176 downloads)


51 1 ton Panel
Betty, she's a handful
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
You might be able to push those back out with some sort of pick thru a hole in the back. It would take some patience to get them unnoticeable. Adds to the "charm" to leave them in. wink


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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Joined: May 2005
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Too bad your dents are in the no mans land. Not really in a place where that rear back panel covers it.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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put add in parts wanted..............someone may just have a good one laying around. then try the repair just to see if you can make it good!


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S
'Bolter
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Check these out... if not dented you could use 0000 steel wool with brasso...it will look like new.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293493503145
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383446711789

That's what I did with mine that had paint falling off..

Here is mine before & After
Attachments
20200319_135005.jpg (216.33 KB, 139 downloads)
20190701_162611.jpg (282.94 KB, 138 downloads)

Last edited by Shaffer's1950; 03/19/2020 9:10 PM.

1950 Chevy 3100
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
5
Renaissance Man
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Stainless steel is a bear to work out dents, or bend flanges in such a way so that they can be bent back to where they are supposed to be.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jun 2010
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B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 301
I did exactly what you are trying to do. It didn't work out. I peeled the flange back on one end and spread apart the other sides just enough that I could slide the back side out the end. The bigger problem was getting the dents out smooth. I intended to bump them out and then file the surface flat and buff it back to a shine. I got almost there but the steel got too thin. I bought a repro.


1949 Chevy 3600
1975 W-25 Hurst Olds
1970 GMC 1/2 ton Fleetside
2010 Chevy Silverado

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