The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop More unusual Carter W-1 carbs

Still cleaning up the shop, and finding stuff.

These are not on my Carter W-1 article, but will be.

The carburetor on the left is the Carter type W-1 285s used on 1934 and 1935 Chevrolet Standards. The carburetor on the right is the same carb, but one produced by Chevrolet (note the large "C" on the casting, and the different tag number 837373).

As these carbs are smaller (internally) than the W-1's used on the Chevrolet Master, the lower cast iron casting was painted brown instead of the normal black.

Edited after correcting pictures.

Jon.

[img]http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_285_1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_285_2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_285_3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_285_4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_285_5.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_285_6.jpg[/img]

Jon, I emphasize with the technology challenged label, but have you thought about using the Stovebolt Photo Program described in the left margin of every page. I found it to be easy to use and the photos can be viewed directly in your post. It is limited to 5 photos per post so you might have to split it into two posts. If you need help PM me.

Martin - thank you. Still don't know the problem, but I rotated them on my computer, and they show up correctly on the internet!

Jon.

Very cool Jon.

Thanks for sharing that with us.

John

If someone in thinking about what to get me for my birthday in April ($500.00 limit please), I'd like to have one of those on my trophy shelf just to look at.
Those are pieces of artwork!

I'm sure you already have a source but we had a trophy shop make up replacement brass tags for carbs, differentials, whatever. Many old ones have had the screw head squished right through the brass.

That's exactly what I was thinking.

John

"The carburetor on the left is the Carter type W-1 285s used on 1934 and 1935 Chevrolet Standards. The carburetor on the right is the same carb, but one produced by Chevrolet (note the large "C" on the casting, and the different tag number 837373)."

Jon,

What is your secret to keep the 2-screw float bowl covers from leaking?

Also, is there a source for new screws that plug the holes that are drilled and tapped deep into the carburetor bodies for various jets and check valves? All the ones I have ever seen vary from slightly to extremely chewed up. It would be so nice to source some with pristine slots.

Thanks!

Ray W

Evan - I do have a source for the tags (me). I have original Carter blanks, and reverse dies. And before anyone asked, NO, I will NOT make tags for anyone (per advice from my attorney)!

Carl and J. Lucas - thank you for the compliment! Anyone can do the same thing. I think there is an article on my website about carburetor finishes.

Martin - thanks for the tip, but would be something else to learn, and I resemble an old dog Bow wow!

Ray - the secret to keeping the 2-screw float bowl covers from leaking, is to refrain from putting gasoline in the gas tank When the gas tank runs dry, the bowl cover will stop leaking. Seriously, the only way that I know is to straighten the bowl covers using heat and pressure about every 3 years. Same issue as that with the Rochester B's, except Carter recognized their issue, and fixed it in 1937. Rochester refused to do anything about their issue. As far as screws are concerned; we have virtually every part for every Carter W-1 in stock. Our kits (the minimum sale) are more complete than most, and other parts are available, but with the purchase of a kit. When we were still restoring carbs, I played the "game" with the manufacturers, and purchased screws in 5000 count minimums. Today, I don't know. You MIGHT find 100 screw lots on Ebay; patience would be your best friend. Or, we can provide, as mentioned.

Back to the 2 screw bowl cover. Personally, if I owned a 1932~1936 Chevrolet that I both drove and showed, I would have two carburetors: (1) the original for show, and (2) a modified 420s (different throttle arm) for daily driving. Another solution for (2) would be the 569s (factory replacement), but a modified 420s runs better on the 1932~1936 engines. Straightening the bowl covers is much easier than boring the tower and pressing in bushings (unless you do a bunch at the same time).

Jon.

"Ray - the secret to keeping the 2-screw float bowl covers from leaking, is to refrain from putting gasoline in the gas tank wink When the gas tank runs dry, the bowl cover will stop leaking"

Jon,

On my purely amateur level I did find another solution that actually fixed the 2-screw float bowl cover leak long term. I put Permatex flexible anaerobic sealer, item number 51817 on both sides of the gasket. Permatex technical advisers told me that product is highly resistant to gasoline and that claim proved to be correct. I must have read your mind on the more modern carburetor for a '36. While I do have an original '36 carburetor, the one I'm actually using is a '39-'40 Chevy carburetor with a flat throttle arm shaft and '37 jetting, determined by trial and error with various jets and metering rods. My bone stock '36 engine responded to that change with better performance and fuel economy. To the untrained eye it looks like an original '36 carburetor. The 4-screw float bowl cover and angle of the vacuum advance fitting would not fool you for a second.

"As far as screws are concerned; we have virtually every part for every Carter W-1 in stock. Our kits (the minimum sale) are more complete than most, and other parts are available, but with the purchase of a kit."

Regarding the screws with chewed up slots, I've thought of solving that problem by using a "sensitive" (mini) drill chuck in my lathe to drill, tap, and countersink the damaged screw heads and install new fillister head screws for a cosmetic improvement. Red Locktite on the threads would be required to keep the newly installed screws from backing out, leaving the plugs behind, when the time came to remove those tapered bottom screws in the carburetor body.

What do you think of that possible approach Jon?

Thanks!

Ray W

Ray - I really don't like the gasket sealer on the gasket. The reason is no longer valid, as I no longer restore carburetors. I have seen too many carbs come in for restoration that have either been ruined, or at least the restoration cost greatly increased by mis-application of various sealers, including teflon tape. Over time, tiny chunks of the sealer flake off, and find the smallest orifice in the carburetor (normally the idle tube) to clog.

This is just my opinion, and as stated, moot, as I no longer restore carbs.

As to the screws: certainly a solution if you have the tools and the lathe AND the time; but since you have the tools and the lathe, why not just machine new fillister head screws of the correct thread/length? Or, as stated earlier, I do have them available.

I have used a similar technique to re-affix throttle arms to a throttle shaft, where someone loosened the arm on the shaft. I would chuck the shaft in the lathe, drill and tap the end (normally one can use a 10x32 thread), and machined a "screw" from hard brass with a 10x32 thread from a rod the same diameter as the throttle shaft. Using the red loctite you suggested on the thread, re-affix the throttle arm. Once the loctite had set, mill off the protruding "screw head" and "stake" as was done originally. Makes a permanent fix, and if done carefully, impossible to spot on carbs used on show-cars. Generally, not necessary on Chevrolet carbs, as I have new throttle shafts for most of these. But could justify the time on some of the rarer, more expensive carbs.

The two machine tools every enthusiast should add to their Christmas want list is a lathe and a milling/drilling machine.

Jon.