| |
BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
13 members (klhansen, BLUEMEANIE, RBs36, TUTS 59, 46 Texaco, Gib70, Ponchogl, mvigo, Leo, Possum, Deegs53, 2 invisible),
571
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,277 Members48,100 | | Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 33 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 33 | Hello All,
I had asked this question in another thread, but can not find the tread. I am changing to tie rods on my 1950 chevy 1/2 ton pickup. I had asked how do you get the old ball stud out of the steering or what was the best way. Most of the answers were to drill out old stud and then drive out of steering arm which is fine, but what do you do about the taper on the tie rod? Do you have the steering arm reamed out with a tie rod reamer? What have you guys done?
Mike | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 324 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 324 | Mike, you got it, that is exactly what is needed.
Tom | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 33 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 33 | I figured it would need to be reamed out, I just wanted to make sure. Thank You!
Mike | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 | It depends on the tie rod ends. I think if it is a MOOG part number the tie rods DO NOT need reaming as the shank is straight. Somebody willcorrect me if this is wrong.
Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | I believe there are taper-drills available in different angles for this if you are a DIY kinda' guy. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The replacement tie rod ends are made for that. No reaming should be nessesary.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 33 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 33 | The tie rods do have a taper to them, so I think it would be wise to ream the steering arms. It won't take much. Thanks for the feedback.
Mike | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 33 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 33 | FYI... once the old ball and stud are driven out of the steering arms, you do not need to ream them out. The replacement tie rods fit nice and snug.
Mike | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 |
Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe
Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
| | |
|
|
| |
